Brake pad options and clutch reservoir

[LSAmac]

I’m aware this has been covered, a lot of the google searches that brought me here are a lot older, bare with me 2 part question

I’m Trying to get some feedback on brake pads people have been running? From what I can see the brembo, hawk, raybesto and powerstop are the main options essentially. I’d prefer Bite/STOPPING POWER over dust all day, the brembo absolutely dust like a mother but they’ve served me well with my driving style. I don’t track the car but I enjoy racing so they run hot a lot, and they’ve saved me many times and stop GREAT ! Is there an option relatively close to the brembo that dust less? Or is brembo the best out the options for bite force and you just gotta deal with the dust? Also how does the noise play into all this I’ve read about? Is it a wheel bearing type of grind or something, I honestly never heard any real noise from the brembo until recently they squeak, but more than likely just time for a replacement. And how can I know when the rotor is ready for replacement, there’s no grooves or pulsating but there factory rotors, at 80k miles I’d imagine there done soon? Will a measuring tool help there?


after choosing out the options, I plan to also bleed the brakes, (I’m aware of the criss cross pattern and inside valve first) I’ve read and seen some info that a scanner is needed for this for the abs, Is that true or what’s the situation with that?
I don’t mind investing in one but is it truly necessary? I’ve also attached files, regarding the shared reservoir with the clutch fluid, this doesn’t look like the stock setup, any help here why there’s one hose and this green valve ,how can I trace these hoses too see what’s going on here? Would now be a good time to install a separate reservoir for the clutch and bleed these all together ?

I appreciate any response I get sorry for the long ass post, thanks!

[Joe.G]

The Green hose is a remote bleeder for your clutch. I would add a remote clutch res to separate brake and clutch fluid and bleed both.
As far as bleeding ABS its a good idea to get the old fluid out of there but it is not 100 % necessary, If you bleed the rest of the system and then activate the ABS at some point the old fluid will then mix with the old. Now a days there are fairly cheap scanners that will bleed ABS.
Use a quality fluid that matches the attended use of your car same as the pads, track car and street car don't necessarily need the same stuff.
If rotors feel and look good the correct way is to measure them, Personally at that mileage if I was changing everything else I would change them.
I like the Brembo factory compound pads if you can deal with the dust. Hawk along with others have really good pads but you will have to research a bit to choose the ones that suit your needs.

[LSAmac]

Originally Posted by Joe.G

The Green hose is a remote bleeder for your clutch. I would add a remote clutch res to separate brake and clutch fluid and bleed both.
As far as bleeding ABS its a good idea to get the old fluid out of there but it is not 100 % necessary, If you bleed the rest of the system and then activate the ABS at some point the old fluid will then mix with the old. Now a days there are fairly cheap scanners that will bleed ABS.
Use a quality fluid that matches the attended use of your car same as the pads, track car and street car don't necessarily need the same stuff.
If rotors feel and look good the correct way is to measure them, Personally at that mileage if I was changing everything else I would change them.
I like the Brembo factory compound pads if you can deal with the dust. Hawk along with others have really good pads but you will have to research a bit to choose the ones that suit your needs.

appreciate you taking the time bro! yeah i did see the other comment on general forum wasnt sure if itd get much eyes here. after some research and tracing wires yesterday i realized thats what the green hose was, im guessing probly installed when the previous owner installed the cluth(ive heard its hard to or you cant with the trans/clutch in the car) i wasnt sure how it still played into the clutch/brake fluid if this was installed i assumed maybe a there was a remote clutch res but i dont see anything. so im assuming this is just an easier way to bleed but fluid is still shared? ill look into a kit for a remote res

as far as swapping the fluid, to save a premature flush i might just grab the scanner(ive heard you run it and it upsteams it or something to get it out
which is not possible with any regular bleed?) and bleed it, i knew i seen some info about the scanner and thats probly what its all referring too. Its dirty for starters but i thought this took DOT4 its capped dot3 and manual states dot3 also i believe? ive heard alot of the racing blue stuff. i dont mind a higher quality so dot4is a FORSURE but i dont plan to track. I do enjoy racing the thing but it should never see those temps, wondering what you think there if the blue is just overkill? id prefer best quality for the clutch

ill do some quick homework for the pad choice, ill mes the rotors but again they didnt feel bad but thats what i was thinking, just swapping while there all off . only problem is this costing an extra 600$ plus easily for the job lol ive been told scrubbing the hub and anti seize it? i guess ill have too see, if i do swap them, how it looks removed. are you referring to just painting or clearing straight over the face off it, right were the rotor sits? i have some rattle can 2k clear sitting around anyways.

a last part for bleeding, Is it best too suction out the res, then begin refilling with the fluid im switching too, then keep it topped and hit the "criss cross" pattern as i go on to get this new stuff in? ive also heard begin at the closest tire in a situation like this, especially with the dirtiness of it to clear it better?
and install the clutch res after all this? Thanks man ! appreciate it

[Joe.G]

I always try to suck out as much of old brake fluid as I can before refilling with fresh and bleeding, Since you are not replacing parts I don't think it really matters on the bleeding procedure But Google the proper sequence and I would follow it. The scanner will tell you what it wants you to do as far as bleeding the ABS part.
I like ATE 200 I think it is a good fluid for the street and some track time.


If you re use the rotors you will need to scuff them if changing pad type.


I use Anti seize on the inside of the ht where it goes against the hub.


If using a non coated rotor I like to paint the hat where the rim goes and around it so it doesn't look rusty but don't paint the rotor surface itself.

[LSAmac]

Originally Posted by Joe.G

I always try to suck out as much of old brake fluid as I can before refilling with fresh and bleeding, Since you are not replacing parts I don't think it really matters on the bleeding procedure But Google the proper sequence and I would follow it. The scanner will tell you what it wants you to do as far as bleeding the ABS part.
I like ATE 200 I think it is a good fluid for the street and some track time.


If you re use the rotors you will need to scuff them if changing pad type.


I use Anti seize on the inside of the ht where it goes against the hub.


If using a non coated rotor I like to paint the hat where the rim goes and around it so it doesn't look rusty but don't paint the rotor surface itself.

appreciate it !