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Old 03-14-2010, 03:22 AM   #1
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Exclamation 315 are good but...

What would it take to mount 345's in the rear? Is there enough room without cutting?
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:13 PM   #2
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No you will have to tub it unless you have an offset where the tires will sticking way outside of the rear.
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Old 03-14-2010, 02:15 PM   #3
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What would it take to mount 345's in the rear? Is there enough room without cutting?
You can't do it without tubs/ mini-tubs and notched/narrowed/sectioned frame mods.
Below is an example. Best of Luck.
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:04 PM   #4
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You can't do it without tubs/ mini-tubs and notched/narrowed/sectioned frame mods.
Below is what is an example. Best of Luck.
Looks awsome!

I would love to do this, can you please post a few more pics and maybe some of the things you learned? Also, how wide a tire can you now fit?

Thanks
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Old 03-14-2010, 03:08 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by speedster View Post
You can't do it without tubs/ mini-tubs and notched/narrowed/sectioned frame mods.
Below is what is an example. Best of Luck.
Thats intriguing!
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Old 03-14-2010, 08:00 PM   #6
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widebody mod
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Old 03-15-2010, 08:45 PM   #7
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Looks awsome!

I would love to do this, can you please post a few more pics and maybe some of the things you learned? Also, how wide a tire can you now fit?

Thanks
Here's a pic looking up from below. The mini tub is tack welded - it has since been seam sealed and painted. The other pic was of a 335 tire lying around to check for clearance. The SST will be running 345 DR's. They are the widest that will fit. To go wider would require hacking up the rear subframe and suspension so we didn't go there. It would completely mess up the suspension geometry.

Things learned - you can go with 315's without mods. If you are pushing enough power that 315's are marginal or you wish to go wider for road racing, you can, but it is quite expensive to add the extra clearance. The other mod that we found is that the rear subframe "donut" flange can be trimmed for an extra 1/2" or so of extra clearance. You also want to be VERY careful when ordering the wheels. Double check all measurements 'cause you only want to order the wheels once. Eventually, places like Detroit Speed will probably make mini-tub kits, but not right now. You may want to spend the money on stuff like a supercharger first and widen things later.
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:00 PM   #8
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Here's a pic looking up from below. The mini tub is tack welded - it has since been seam sealed and painted. The other pic was of a 335 tire lying around to check for clearance. The SST will be running 345 DR's. They are the widest that will fit. To go wider would require hacking up the rear subframe and suspension so we didn't go there. It would completely mess up the suspension geometry.

Things learned - you can go with 315's without mods. If you are pushing enough power that 315's are marginal or you wish to go wider for road racing, you can, but it is quite expensive to add the extra clearance. The other mod that we found is that the rear subframe "donut" flange can be trimmed for an extra 1/2" or so of extra clearance. You also want to be VERY careful when ordering the wheels. Double check all measurements 'cause you only want to order the wheels once. Eventually, places like Detroit Speed will probably make mini-tub kits, but not right now. You may want to spend the money on stuff like a supercharger first and widen things later.
Thanks for the pics and tips. I think I'm going to end up doing this but you are 100% correct in that I need to get a blower first!
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Old 03-16-2010, 06:43 PM   #9
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looks great!
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:14 PM   #10
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Speedster that is very interesting. Did you have to make modifications to the interior as well. How much time in labour to do this job.
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Old 05-14-2010, 11:22 PM   #11
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Speedster that is very interesting. Did you have to make modifications to the interior as well. How much time in labour to do this job.
The interior was removed anyway for the rollbar fabrication, so when it was out the interior guys made minor mods to the rear seat structure, but nothing terrible. I guess the way to describe the labor is that it was more hours than we had ever planned. I think it will be worth it once the car is on the road.
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Old 05-15-2010, 01:05 AM   #12
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well I have a guy that has the TALENT to do it but I want to get a sense of the most likely hours to do it. Iml getting a new interior anyway but suppose to be a daily driver.

Did you have to narrow the suspension? the axles?
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Old 05-15-2010, 08:11 AM   #13
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well I have a guy that has the TALENT to do it but I want to get a sense of the most likely hours to do it. Iml getting a new interior anyway but suppose to be a daily driver.

It is a little tricky to figure out, because there was a lot of "crossover" work done, i.e. fuel cells mounts, etc. but I would say the fab work for the rear start to finish was around 100 hours.

Did you have to narrow the suspension? the axles?
We went as far as we could WITHOUT narrowing the actual drivetrain. One parameter that I would not change was the IRS rear suspension. We did not want to mess up all of the engineering that GM put into that. But to do that, the backspace on the rear wheels is literally at the maximum. The rear wheels are 18 x 12.5 with a 345 DR. This pic will give you the idea...
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Old 06-07-2010, 09:52 PM   #14
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No 335s, then, huh - without tubbing? :( I guess 315s will be it. Too bad :( Thanks for sharing Bruce!!!
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