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#1 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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Installed BMR toe bars, trailing arms and bushings this weekend...
I have some lift time set up for the 28th or this month but after talking to a friend who already did this and reading the instructions, I realized that the lift at the shop would be no help in installing the BMR stuff. You need a suspension lift, not a ramp lift and doing a jackstand lift on the ramps lift is not a good idea. So, being the impatient person that I am, I decided to tackle the job today.
I got the toe bars in first no sweat. You have to lower the cradle but its really nothing. Much easier than expected. I also got the passenger side trailing arm and bushing in but still need to remove the trailing arm bushing from the driver side and install the driver trailing arm and new bushing. The hardest part by far is removing the OEM bushing. I fought for a LOOONG time to get them out but couldn't. I fought and fought and fought to get the old bushing out... I couldn't. No matter how hard I tried to find something or engineer something around the house to get it out, I couldn't. So, after about an hour or maybe more of fighting with it, I went to my favorite place, AutoZone and got this: ![]() Got home and it was out it a matter of minutes Here is a comparo between the OEM (destroyed) bushing and the nice new BMR one: ![]() I did notice I tore up the mounting hole pretty good screwing around trying to get it out but the new bushing slipped right in and I got the new trailing arm on no sweat.![]() Well it was time to go to dinner and I was ready for a break so after getting this far, I decided to call it quits. . . . . YAWN... and I lost an hour of sleep! ![]() Ok... back at it. Well, today was a different story... Today I went out and had the old bushing out in 5 minutes. ![]() BUT for some reason I had to fight to get the new one in. No thrown tools today but some cussing! Once I got it in, the new trailing arm slipped into place and got it all bolted up. Everything all back together and cleaned up. I really like the red, and it is barely noticable. ![]() The quality and fit of the BMR toe bars and trailing arms is really good. Everything went right into place and is much more sturdy. My only complaint is the the directions. Though they are step by step and it is a VERY easy job, the bolt sizes are way off. They tell you what tools you need so I went and bought the odd size wrenches I didnt have (18mm, 21mm, 22mm) but all you needed was the 18mm and I may have used the 21mm once, but 3/4" is so close, it ended up working better than the 21mm. OEM -vs- BMR toe bars: ![]() trailing arms: ![]() I will schedule the alignment for this week and see how they work! I will keep you updated! |
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#2 |
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Móderator
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Very nice let me know how you like the ride/handle of it now, very interested how much of a difference it made.
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I'm not the one with the Atti2de problem it's everyone else that has a problem with my Atti2de!
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#3 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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Will do! I am not sure if it will make much of a ride difference, I am hoping for a traction difference but the ride may be a little stiffer. Rain and crap here today so not testing it out. Next week is supposed to be nice so I am going to try to get to the alignment shop this week....
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#4 |
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Search Ninja
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,183
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Why do you need an alignment? All you did was replace the OEM parts with stronger aftermarket ones. Theoretically, it shouldn't have moved anything.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
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#5 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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Toe bars control a portion of your alignment, the toe. It is adjusted by an offset washer called a cam. Well, you mark the location, remove the bolt and put it back in the same spot but there is a chance it could be off. Plus, cars come with shitty alignments from the factory to begin with. Most cars could use an alignment right away as the factory only has to get certian tolerences, not exact. They do hundreds a day so getting them perfect isnt a priority. I want to take it in and make sure its correct.
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#6 |
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Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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Glad to see the install went well. Nice write-up too! Thanks for the tip on our instructions, I will look into that and correct what is necessary. Was it the toe rod instructions or the trailing arm? Enjoy!
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#7 |
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nice
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#8 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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Quote:
It was not a big deal at all. A few extra tools never hurt.
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#9 | |
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Shadow Gray '19 ZLE M6
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Quote:
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2019 ZL1 1LE | M6 | SGM | PDR | CF Dash | Nav | Wheel Locks
PPF | Paint Correction | ZL1 Addons Rock Guards | ZL1 Addons Lift Pads | ZL1 Addons Feather Lite Tow Hook | JWM Smoked Sidemarkers | Wildhammer Smoked Rear Reflectors | JWM License Plate LEDs | RotoFab CAI | ADM IC Reservoir v2 | BC Forged RZ05 | SPL Toe Arms | BW Brake Deflectors | CMS Roll Bar | Schroth Profi II ASM Harnesses . Sold: '99 Trans Am (bolt-ons & cam) | '00 WS6 (bolt-ons, heads, cam, 12 bolt) | '05 CTS-V (bolt-ons, short throw) | '10 SS/RS M6 (short throw, CAI, coilovers, LTs, catback, JRE tune) | '01 WS6 YouTube |
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#10 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 89 IROC 350 Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Back roads, southern Ohio
Posts: 12,504
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#11 |
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Shadow Gray '19 ZLE M6
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Ok guess not!
__________________
2019 ZL1 1LE | M6 | SGM | PDR | CF Dash | Nav | Wheel Locks
PPF | Paint Correction | ZL1 Addons Rock Guards | ZL1 Addons Lift Pads | ZL1 Addons Feather Lite Tow Hook | JWM Smoked Sidemarkers | Wildhammer Smoked Rear Reflectors | JWM License Plate LEDs | RotoFab CAI | ADM IC Reservoir v2 | BC Forged RZ05 | SPL Toe Arms | BW Brake Deflectors | CMS Roll Bar | Schroth Profi II ASM Harnesses . Sold: '99 Trans Am (bolt-ons & cam) | '00 WS6 (bolt-ons, heads, cam, 12 bolt) | '05 CTS-V (bolt-ons, short throw) | '10 SS/RS M6 (short throw, CAI, coilovers, LTs, catback, JRE tune) | '01 WS6 YouTube |
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#12 |
![]() Drives: Black 2SS/RS w/Ground Effects Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West County, MO
Posts: 346
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I'm very curious to hear your results with this too. I come from the land of the 350Z and the only thing I miss so far is the handling. The Camaro isn't bad, but, that Z, amazed me till the day I traded it in.
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#13 |
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Semper Fi Camaro
Drives: 2010 1SS/RS Aqua Blue LS3 Gauge PKG Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Shelby NC
Posts: 423
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I did just the Trailing arms today. I noticed a much firmer feel to the take off and shifting feel. (not the actual shift of the transmission). The "hooking up" felt tighter. I was actually surprised that I could feel that much of a difference, I didn't expect that actually. The best way I can describe it is when I would take off from a stop (and suddenly need to slow down/stop because the traffic in front of me suddenly slowed) I could feel the drivetrain unload when I depressed the clutch quickly and would occasionally hear/feel a slight thunk as the drivetrain unloaded. (almost like a worn U Joint sound but not metallic). Now when I do the same reaction, I do not get that "slack backfeed" anymore.
I'd recommend this mod as a good, fairly inexpensive upgrade to improve the overall ride and drivability. Not to mention any track benefits for those that really push the cars limits.
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#14 |
![]() Drives: Black 2SS/RS w/Ground Effects Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: West County, MO
Posts: 346
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Did you install the trailing arms yourself? If so, how hard was it/how long did it take? I'm considering doing these BMR parts + the Hotchkiss TVS, so far it sounds like the only thing I might not be able to do myself is the springs.
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