METHODS FOR INSTALLING UNDERDRIVE PULLEY

[R1CH]

I'd like to hear some of the methods and experiences people have when re-installing an underdrive pulley.

What did you use? A specific tool? A threaded rod? A crank bolt from an LS7 (I read somewhere people used this bolt b/c it is almost 2 inches longer than the stocker and can get more threads to pull from)?

I'm looking to do the install very soon; the pulley is sitting in my garage just begging me to put it on

Thanks for any tips guys

[caper]

mine too! and i NEED to know what belt will fit...the ones in the directions from SLP? or the other part # for the shorter one??

[2010 2-Tone]

[SK360]

We have a pulley install tool that we got from somebody on ls1tech... used it a whole bunch.

Do NOT listen to people that say to reuse the stock bolt to pull the new pulley on.

[gearhead440]

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93756

[Ron66Vette&10SS]

I got a threaded rod from Fastenal ( search for a local one http://www.fastenal.com/web/home.ex ) and the nut and washers from a local farm/ranch supply store. Total cost set me back less than $20. In the past (twice on an LS1) I just just heated the pulley, tapped it on and used the old bolt to pull it on the rest of the way, but I finally got smart and decided not to risk it on my LS3.

[Mike TexaSS]

http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/How_To..._Camaro_SS/105

[SK360]

Originally Posted by Mike TexaSS

http://www.planetlsx.com/tech/How_To..._Camaro_SS/105

Pretty bad advice in that article... at least all the people that had the stock crank bolt break off in the crank when using it to install the new pulley would agree. lol.

[R1CH]

So, it looks like I'll be going with the threaded rod method. I'll need and M16 x 2.0 rod... but how long? Also, does anybody know what size washers I'll need?

Thanks

[Josh @ Spartan LSX]

Pretty bad advice in that article... at least all the people that had the stock crank bolt break off in the crank when using it to install the new pulley would agree. lol.

Do NOT listen to people that say to reuse the stock bolt to pull the new pulley on.

Just because you read about "some guy on the internet" breaking something one time doesn't make it gospel.

I've used the stock bolts to seat pulleys for 12 years on LS engines, and never had ONE failure. More times than not, the bolt breaking off is user error rather than a failure of the bolt. I've went so far (on a junk blown motor) and pulled 350ft lbs on a stock bolt just to see if it would break, and it didn't.

To the OP. Here's the brief steps you'll need to get to get your pulley off:
-Remove the fans. This isn't a "must", but takes 5 minutes and gives you a lot more breathing room
-Take the main serp belt off. The tensioner is a 15mm
-Remove the spark plugs. The next step will explain why.
-Grab a pry bar or large flat head screw driver, and gently persuade your A/C belt off the A/C compressor while simultaneously spinning the crank pulley over using a 15/16 or 24mm socket on the crank bolt. This will take some patience, especially if you're by yourself. An extra hand makes a world of difference here. **Note, you can avoid this step all together by cutting the A/C belt off**Also, if the plugs aren't removed the motor is a LOT harder to turn for spinning the belt off**
-Put your car in 4th gear and pull the e-brake all the way up
-If you don't have air tools and a strong impact, you'll need to grab a breaker bar with a 15/16 or 24mm socket and break the stock crank bolt loose. Once it's broke loose you should be able to spin it out with your fingers.
-Use the puller of your choice (I use a GM OTC puller), and pull the crank pulley off
-Stick new crank pulley on, and thread in the OLD bolt.
-TQ down to 250 ft lbs
-Pull old bolt out
-TQ down new bolt. You can either use the GM method of 37 ft lbs, then another 120 degrees. Or if you're like me and been doing this 12+ years, you'll just TQ the new bolt to 115 ft lbs and call it good. Be sure to dab some red loctite on the crank bolt.
-Take car out of 4th gear. Keep E-brake up.
-Whether you removed your old A/C belt or cut it off and bought a new one, you'll need to reinstall it the same way that was described above. I find it easier to stick it on the crank pulley where it goes, then start it on the A/C compressor pulley and slowly turn the motor while persuading it back on. Again, this is MUCH easier if you've got one set of hands turning the motor and one set of hands helping the A/C belt back in place.
-Throw away old crank bolt
-Reverse all other procedures.

A few cliff notes:
*If this procedure is taking you more than 2 hrs to complete, you're doing something wrong.
*Powerbond pulleys do sometimes require a reinstallation tool to get the pulley far enough on the crank snout to thread the bolt in. From a starting position, the stock bolt is not long enough. In these cases you will need a crank pulley install tool.
*Do not unbolt your A/C compressor thinking that it will make the job easier. It doesn't. The belt has to be "spun" back on.

Good day sirs.

[Mike TexaSS]

I agree 100% above!


We have installed 100's upon 100's of pulleys on lsx's and use a stock bolt to run it down.

[tyler20c]

Probably a dumb question but does the pulley make the car sound any different at all?

[R1CH]

Originally Posted by tyler20c

Probably a dumb question but does the pulley make the car sound any different at all?

no

[sspaul]

Originally Posted by Damian

Just because you read about "some guy on the internet" breaking something one time doesn't make it gospel.

I've used the stock bolts to seat pulleys for 12 years on LS engines, and never had ONE failure. More times than not, the bolt breaking off is user error rather than a failure of the bolt. I've went so far (on a junk blown motor) and pulled 350ft lbs on a stock bolt just to see if it would break, and it didn't.

To the OP. Here's the brief steps you'll need to get to get your pulley off:
-Remove the fans. This isn't a "must", but takes 5 minutes and gives you a lot more breathing room
-Take the main serp belt off. The tensioner is a 15mm
-Remove the spark plugs. The next step will explain why.
-Grab a pry bar or large flat head screw driver, and gently persuade your A/C belt off the A/C compressor while simultaneously spinning the crank pulley over using a 15/16 or 24mm socket on the crank bolt. This will take some patience, especially if you're by yourself. An extra hand makes a world of difference here. **Note, you can avoid this step all together by cutting the A/C belt off**Also, if the plugs aren't removed the motor is a LOT harder to turn for spinning the belt off**
-Put your car in 4th gear and pull the e-brake all the way up
-If you don't have air tools and a strong impact, you'll need to grab a breaker bar with a 15/16 or 24mm socket and break the stock crank bolt loose. Once it's broke loose you should be able to spin it out with your fingers.
-Use the puller of your choice (I use a GM OTC puller), and pull the crank pulley off
-Stick new crank pulley on, and thread in the OLD bolt.
-TQ down to 250 ft lbs
-Pull old bolt out
-TQ down new bolt. You can either use the GM method of 37 ft lbs, then another 120 degrees. Or if you're like me and been doing this 12+ years, you'll just TQ the new bolt to 115 ft lbs and call it good. Be sure to dab some red loctite on the crank bolt.
-Take car out of 4th gear. Keep E-brake up.
-Whether you removed your old A/C belt or cut it off and bought a new one, you'll need to reinstall it the same way that was described above. I find it easier to stick it on the crank pulley where it goes, then start it on the A/C compressor pulley and slowly turn the motor while persuading it back on. Again, this is MUCH easier if you've got one set of hands turning the motor and one set of hands helping the A/C belt back in place.
-Throw away old crank bolt
-Reverse all other procedures.

A few cliff notes:
*If this procedure is taking you more than 2 hrs to complete, you're doing something wrong.
*Powerbond pulleys do sometimes require a reinstallation tool to get the pulley far enough on the crank snout to thread the bolt in. From a starting position, the stock bolt is not long enough. In these cases you will need a crank pulley install tool.
*Do not unbolt your A/C compressor thinking that it will make the job easier. It doesn't. The belt has to be "spun" back on.

Good day sirs.

couldn't have said any better