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Old 12-04-2010, 04:28 PM   #1
rtcat600man
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Drives: 2010 2LT IOM
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Eibach Sway Bar

Today I installed my Eibach sway bars. The install can be made easier with a couple extra tips that I found along the way.

For the rear one, If you can remove the mufflers it will certainly make the install simple. Mine have been welded on and made that trick impossible. Do not use ramps. The install will be easier if the rear suspension is allowed to hang. This will give you the clearance to get the stock bar out and the new one in.

As for the front one, I recommend putting the front in the air and again letting the suspension hang. Remove the passenger tire. No real need to do what others have said and remove the lower engine mount nuts and raise the engine an inch.

The key is to just work the bars around until you get them to work out of the tight spots and reverse the pretzel maneuvers to get them installed again.

Use locktite on the nuts.

Once I was done with the install I took my friend (thanks for the help Joe) and my son for a test ride. WOW, certainly made a difference. No more understeer, matter of fact I felt a slight hint of oversteer. Overall I would say a real close to neutral set-up. The handling was very tight and precise. Corning is quicker and spot on. Extremely satisfied with the results.

This is my daily driver and I was looking to give my ride a better than stock handling. MISSION ACCOMPLISHED.

Here are a few pictures of the rear sway bar. Stock (before), Eibach (after), completed install package.
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Old 12-06-2010, 01:11 AM   #2
a red maro
 
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do you also have the Eibach lowering springs? if you do how much do they lower the car, and did it affect the smoothness of the drive? I'm looking into getting them sometime in the future, just don't know all that much about them.
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Old 12-06-2010, 08:22 AM   #3
axis
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I found it CONSIDERABLY easier after jacking up the engine. Took me ~10min to loosen the two motor mount bolts right there on the bottom and throw a jack under the oil pan. The bar slid right out with very little manipulation. Much easier than trying to snake that damn thing around. I tried for an hour to get that damn thing to come out before I jacked the engine up.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed
GPI modded intake manifold
Bo (knows) White ported TB
Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT
Pfadted (springs/sways)
Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI

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Old 12-06-2010, 10:49 AM   #4
rtcat600man
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a red maro View Post
do you also have the Eibach lowering springs? if you do how much do they lower the car, and did it affect the smoothness of the drive? I'm looking into getting them sometime in the future, just don't know all that much about them.
Yes, I have the Eibach lowering springs too. Dropped about 1.25" in all four corners. The ride is a little stiffer, but nothing I would say that is bad.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=112638


Quote:
Originally Posted by axis View Post
I found it CONSIDERABLY easier after jacking up the engine. Took me ~10min to loosen the two motor mount bolts right there on the bottom and throw a jack under the oil pan. The bar slid right out with very little manipulation. Much easier than trying to snake that damn thing around. I tried for an hour to get that damn thing to come out before I jacked the engine up.
I had the bar out and back in within 10 minutes once I took the wheel off and turned the rotor all the way out. Either way works then.
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