1000 RWHP Club

[Genevieve]

I am more worried about a drive shaft coming apart, lol. I know the entire drive line is a ticking time bomb but at this point I am curious how far I can really push it. I never thought it would take 1000+ TQ. Also to be fair, The motor is 427, I noticed the list said 417, I am sure those extra 10 CI give me a bit. lol

Thanks Again!

[Dangeruss]

Originally Posted by Genevieve

I am more worried about a drive shaft coming apart, lol. I know the entire drive line is a ticking time bomb but at this point I am curious how far I can really push it. I never thought it would take 1000+ TQ. Also to be fair, The motor is 427, I noticed the list said 417, I am sure those extra 10 CI give me a bit. lol

Thanks Again!

Corrected the 417.

Your numbers make sense on a manual car with a stock rear end. Then you have crazy cars like SSMagna making 1000+ with a 9.5" and a 4L80. Both rob a ton of horsepower, but translate very well at the track.

If you put that car on some slicks and it hooks you're gonna be picking up parts off the track.

Good luck holding everything together...you're gonna need it.

[taz]

Originally Posted by Genevieve

I am more worried about a drive shaft coming apart, lol. I know the entire drive line is a ticking time bomb but at this point I am curious how far I can really push it. I never thought it would take 1000+ TQ. Also to be fair, The motor is 427, I noticed the list said 417, I am sure those extra 10 CI give me a bit. lol

Thanks Again!

Congrats! My car is still in the shop being upgraded, but pretty much close to your build. I also went with a Garretts twin turbo setup on a 446/RHS built engine. I was running a L99 engine with TVS2300 Magnacharger, Kooks LT headers, Corsa Exhaust, ADM Performance CAI running 540rwhp. I was planning on purchasing the new Viper, but my girlfriend vetoed the Viper so the money was diverted to the Camaro. At least I was able to sell the L99 and all performance parts pretty quickly.

I was surprised on the size of the stock driveshaft compared to the DSS driveshaft I had installed. Here is a comparison. You might want to purchase the upgraded axle and driveshaft now so that you can have them on hand when the stock ones do come apart.

taz

[stevieturbo]

That's a pretty long shaft...doesnt look like it's going to have a very high critical speed ?

[Clinc]

Originally Posted by Genevieve

I guess I can be put on the list now too.



1123.8 HP and 1057.9 TQ on 16-17psi, Twin GT3586R Turbos, 427 lsx, 93 pump gas and meth, stock driveline, Built by CBI street cars, tuned by DSX tuning.

If more info is needed just let me know.

Nice numbers man! I want a rematch! Lol

[Genevieve]

Originally Posted by taz

Congrats!
I was surprised on the size of the stock driveshaft compared to the DSS driveshaft I had installed. Here is a comparison. You might want to purchase the upgraded axle and driveshaft now so that you can have them on hand when the stock ones do come apart.

taz

Thanks, DSS does make some nice stuff.

Originally Posted by Clinc

Nice numbers man! I want a rematch! Lol

thanks,

[taz]

Originally Posted by stevieturbo

That's a pretty long shaft...doesnt look like it's going to have a very high critical speed ?

I havent had a chance to drive the car after install, but havent heard of any of the DSS driveshafts having any problems with high critical speed. The driveshaft was part of the DSS 9" conversison kit. Both driveshaft and axles are rated up to 1,400hp. I think there is someone else who is on the 1000rwhp club who is running the DSS conversion kit. I'd be interested if anyone has heard of any high critical speed problems with the DSS driveshafts that I need to worry about. Thanks!

Taz

[stevieturbo]

Power etc has nothing to do with critical speed.

Many many people over various marques who have switched from a long two piece to a one piece experience high speed vibrations due to hitting the critical speed. It's just physics that impose the limitation.
Aluminium shafts fair better than steel, as do larger diameter shafts. And composite the highest critical speed for any given shaft size.

What is the overall length of the 1 piece, and what material and diameter is it ?

[Boost6924]

I guess I belong here too. 1002 RWHP with 16.5 psi and pump gas. Getting ready to go back tuning after I swap to 160lbs injectors (ran out of ID1000's). Will post dynojet sheets then.

[SSE 4 2SS]

Originally Posted by taz

I havent had a chance to drive the car after install, but havent heard of any of the DSS driveshafts having any problems with high critical speed. The driveshaft was part of the DSS 9" conversison kit. Both driveshaft and axles are rated up to 1,400hp. I think there is someone else who is on the 1000rwhp club who is running the DSS conversion kit. I'd be interested if anyone has heard of any high critical speed problems with the DSS driveshafts that I need to worry about. Thanks!

Taz

3.07 gears, and over 200mph with the DSS nine inch... No issues... If someone wants to do the math to determine the rpm's of the shaft, this was on the OEM tires...

[Boost6924]

RHS block 438 cid
IPS twin turbo kit
RPS triple carbon clutch
6 speed manual
DSS 9" 3.25 gear
93 octane with no meth. 16.5psi
1002RWHP (Just made it, Lol)
Will shoot for better numbers soon.
(Sorry for the bad quality of dyno sheet)

[Dangeruss]

Originally Posted by Boost6924

RHS block 438 cid
IPS twin turbo kit
RPS triple carbon clutch
6 speed manual
DSS 9" 3.25 gear
93 octane with no meth. 16.5psi
1002RWHP (Just made it, Lol)
Will shoot for better numbers soon.
(Sorry for the bad quality of dyno sheet)

Nice numbers...updated.

[taz]

Originally Posted by stevieturbo

Power etc has nothing to do with critical speed.

Many many people over various marques who have switched from a long two piece to a one piece experience high speed vibrations due to hitting the critical speed. It's just physics that impose the limitation.
Aluminium shafts fair better than steel, as do larger diameter shafts. And composite the highest critical speed for any given shaft size.

What is the overall length of the 1 piece, and what material and diameter is it ?

Sorry, havent been online for a while. The driveshaft is made out of aluminum Not sure about the answers to the other questions so I copied the information from the DSS website of the description of the product. Hope this helps.

"Product Description
Available now for the 2010+ Camaro Automatic is our 3-1/2 aluminum shaft with CV . We have done extensive testing with stock rears and with our 9" kit and believe this to the the most cost effective trouble free drive shaft for the Camaro available today. The shaft will come with our signature billet plates for each end so you done have to go in to the rear taking a chance on upsetting the crush collar (see below for billet plate VS changing to a Pinion yoke below) Our shaft comes with a 300m stub system mounted into a billet aluminum plate to ensure not only strength but lighter weight than the normal way of doing this type of end (look closley at the CV end its not all steel) The shaft only weighs 17lbs and come with special 12.9 uber strength hardware with back up lock nuts to ensure no loose bolts, we have been using this Billet aluminum style plate for over 10 years on thousands of 1000+Hp Supras-BMW's and many more with out any bolt issues.

You will have to remove the heat shield from above center hanger mount to install a 3-1/2" shaft there is a possibility of clearance issues with aftermarket exhaust, This is a general warning, we have 9 test shafts out and not one had an issue. I have listed this because not all exhaust systems have been tested. (our Carbon fiber shaft will be made from 3-3/8 and not the 3-3/4 like other manufacturers)

Billet plate VS Pinion Yokes

There seems to be a debate on a yoke VS a billet plate, here is our take on this. This is what was posted to a question about it on another Forum

those billet drive shaft couplers dont make vibrations???

No not at all, in fact the way the pins stick out of the trans and diff show just how straight it can be. The pins are ground with the bearing surfaces on the trans and diff (if you remove this pin for any reason and have a problem you cant go back to stock or our verified system) so its an exact center line. the billet plates are machined on center and the flanges mount at a larger diameter and pilot making it better than any u-bolt style yoke. We have recently done extensive testing with our new balancing machine with Roush/Fenway on a vibration problem NASCAR has been having. If you have ever seen a race team set up a rear end they use a ball mount that sits where the u-joint mounts to check the run out on The pinion yoke, all yokes have run out. They check them to make sure they are not beyond tolerance (and quite a few are) with the plate and flange we have been able to get a more concentric center line, in fact when we tooled up the new balancer (spins 9500rpm) we ended up using flanges instead of yokes because each time the yoke was taken off and remounted it was not with in tolerance for the balancer (centering on the splines). The flanges hold true no matter how many times they are re-mounted. Roush took a few flange samples with them to make pinion mounts for the flanges.....

This is a picture of another company's billet part, i'm not sure who's part is is but i see a few things that make it bad. The bum rap from most parts is a company not knowing what there doing and trying to make products with out understanding how to keep proper center lines. We 1st measured the thickness at 6-12-3-9 o'clock they have different measurements. the other thing i noticed is they are not turning the outer diameter, this is what you reference all measurements from and should be concentric. That one in the picture was supposed to be brand new also. there is so many banged up ends i would have been afraid to use it in the balancer (the reason it was sent in) our billet plates use longer bolts with a back up nut to ensure the bolt never comes loose. also the higest grade bolt is used to make sure a bolt will never break (or come loose) see the attached picture

i'm sure not all are done this way but it shows our commitment to part excellence and backed up by real world testing not just by being put in a car and claiming. Our shafts are balanced with the billet parts attached, Every CV shaft will have to use this type billet parts for the CV end so claiming its not good would be misleading to those who are unaware of how shafts mount. take a look at our billet mounts, there lighter and race proven for over 10 years in many record setting cars. (if you purchase one you will even see balance drill marks on the billet mounting plates)
dont go for the "never had a problem" we ensure you will not...."

Finally got word that my engine should be shipped within the next two weeks, so really excited to finally get to drive my camaro again! The engine is what has held up my project for so long! Once everything is installed, I suspect I should be a member of the 1000rwhp club soon!

Taz

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Boost6924

I guess I belong here too. 1002 RWHP with 16.5 psi and pump gas. Getting ready to go back tuning after I swap to 160lbs injectors (ran out of ID1000's). Will post dynojet sheets then.

I don't believe your Problem is the injectors.

The ID-1000s will support 1200 wheel if you have the fuel supply right.

Are you Logging Fuel pressure?

Ted.