11-13-2011, 08:46 AM | #15 |
Drives: 2010 IOM 1SS M6 Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: NC
Posts: 557
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11-14-2011, 10:42 AM | #16 |
Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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For Camber/Caster readings we've had success using one of the Longacre gauges with the magnetic adapter. With one of these guys it takes about 5 minutes to get an accurate camber reading for all 4 corners: Longacre Racing Magnetic camber gauge
As far as Toe is concerned really the best garage technique is setting up a twine square using jack stands. Measuring this way will get you an accurate toe measurement relative to all 4 wheels and not just 2. Check out this article from hotrod.com, it's got a pretty good explanation on the entire process: Hotrod Magazine Alignment guide Remember that once you change camber with these cars that will effect your toe as well. Set your ride heights first, then camber, then toe. If you're not going to be adjusting your suspension frequently it is worth having a qualified technition at a quality shop set your alignments. With experience this can get you pretty close to dialed in, especially if you want to try out new things with your car on track. |
11-14-2011, 02:00 PM | #17 |
Drives: 2010 1SS Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,002
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We do all of our own alignments on our shop-owned test vehicles using very similar techniques mentioned in the related articles. Our scales, digital camber gauge and turn plates are all Intercomp brand and the rest of our alignment tools are self-made. While it can be very inexpensive doing your own alignment, be prepared for it to take all day. What can typically be done in an hour at a professional shop can easily take 4-6 hours at home in your driveway...
If you race a lot and are constantly changing settings, it may be beneficial to invest in some equipment and do your own alignments but for the majority it is best to leave it to the guys with the expensive equipment and know how. That being said, it will benefit you to learn a little about alignment settings even if you are not performing your own alignments. Understanding camber, caster, and toe and how they effect the vehicle will give you some insight when dealing with your local alignment technician. Another thing I see a lot is people using OE alignment specs with aftermarket parts. We are in this hobby because we like to enhance the performance of our vehicles. We upgrade suspension components to get improved handling, traction and control. Why go through all of this and then use a conservative OE alignment spec? People just don't realize that it matters but it can make a very significant difference. Most suspension companies will have their own recommended alignment specs that can be printed and given to the alignment technician. Make sure to bring these with you to the alignment shop. One other tip is to always get a printout of the before/after settings. This will give you a good reference to work from and will also verify that the technician actually did something. Not trying to get off subject but did you guys notice the weight of that Mustang in the Hot Rod article above? 2740...and it still has the stock K-member and A-arms on the front. 1000 lbs. lighter than our beloved Camaro! Thats why a puny 250hp would make a fox body Mustang run 12's and we need 430hp to accomplish the same thing! One of our previous project cars (a '94 Z28) ran consistent 10.40's with only 420 rwhp! |
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