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Old 07-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #1
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CLUTCH FAILURE!!! WTF

As you know I had been having problems. Took her out a few times yesterday and had to pump it and even pull the pedal back up with my foot then took a 1 hr drive out of town and it was fine.

Later, on my way home, I did about 120 again to my exit off the highway and then turned in to a parking lot to get milk then the pedal went to the floor and stayed....nothing worked...stuck in first. I panicked and jumped right back on the road and proceeded to try to get home...only 1 mile but 6 lights without stopping. I ran 25mph in first with the hazards on and managed to time all the lights and get back in my driveway. My problem seems to always start after a high speed run and strong braking...inertia triggers it.

@2800 miles and 3 track days...total clutch failure???

I was very very lucky to make it home. This was a wake up call for installing skylane's tow hook kit. Personally I think gm should cover any additional cost of damage while flatbedding this car due to their punt on the tow hooks.

Off to the dealer and I will miss my autox tomorrow. PISSED!!!!!!!!!!!
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Old 07-05-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
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sent you a PM hope you read the link, at this point you may need to take it to the dealer, but IMO it will come back up today.
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:34 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by backtotintops View Post
Personally I think gm should cover any additional cost of damage while flatbedding this car due to their punt on the tow hooks.
Three years free roadside assistance and towing to the dealer is included with your car. For free.



" You never know when trouble is around the corner. But with GM Roadside Assistance, you have the security of knowing that help is just a phone call away. The Roadside Assistance program provides technically trained advisors who are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and offers a number of services that help ease concerns resulting from unforeseeable emergencies. In the U.S., anyone driving the vehicle is covered.
  • 24-hour, 7-days-a-week toll-free 800 phone assistance
  • Towing to the closest GM dealer (from a legal roadway)
  • Flat tire change (using vehicle's spare or tire inflator kit)
  • Battery jump-start
  • Vehicle Lock-Out Service (costs for a new key and the labor to create it are not covered)
  • Emergency fuel delivery
"

" There is generally no charge for any of the services listed under "What Is Roadside Assistance?" while the vehicle is covered by the complimentary Roadside Assistance service. However, additional charges may be incurred for some services, including towing the vehicle beyond the closest GM dealer; for non-warranty parts and labor; or for lost key replacements. For details and additional information, please refer to Section 7 of the Owner's Manual."
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Old 07-05-2014, 11:46 AM   #4
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Three years free roadside assistance and towing to the dealer is included with your car. For free.



" You never know when trouble is around the corner. But with GM Roadside Assistance, you have the security of knowing that help is just a phone call away. The Roadside Assistance program provides technically trained advisors who are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, and offers a number of services that help ease concerns resulting from unforeseeable emergencies. In the U.S., anyone driving the vehicle is covered.
  • 24-hour, 7-days-a-week toll-free 800 phone assistance
  • Towing to the closest GM dealer (from a legal roadway)
  • Flat tire change (using vehicle's spare or tire inflator kit)
  • Battery jump-start
  • Vehicle Lock-Out Service (costs for a new key and the labor to create it are not covered)
  • Emergency fuel delivery
"

" There is generally no charge for any of the services listed under "What Is Roadside Assistance?" while the vehicle is covered by the complimentary Roadside Assistance service. However, additional charges may be incurred for some services, including towing the vehicle beyond the closest GM dealer; for non-warranty parts and labor; or for lost key replacements. For details and additional information, please refer to Section 7 of the Owner's Manual."
This is good to have, but does not fix the problem with a car that will drive other then a pedal stock to the floor, they put coolers on ever other line why not this one?
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:11 PM   #5
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Check the fluid, if you lose the clutch normally the peddle goes all the way up and not down. I would say its a slave master problem.
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:39 PM   #6
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yes I know about the free towing to the closest dealer which would have been the correct one but I doubt they could pull the car up on a flatbed from the front at least without damaging the splitter...but then again you and others have commented how the thing is built tough so who knows....this just should not happen on a new car and as ofer noted is a long documented problem. Fluid is fine and clear.

btw...can onstar send the tow truck?
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:44 PM   #7
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Sorry to hear this, and I hope this is just an isolated problem. Hope you get a quick fix, and yes -- you can have OnStar send the tow truck AFAIK...
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Old 07-05-2014, 12:57 PM   #8
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It's time to fix this GM, don't know why we can't get a known problum for the past 10 years + fixed.


You sale us a track car par non, but you can't shift it hard or the pedal will go down to the floor, I know all cars have problems but it's time to take pride in the car and put it above the rest of the manufacturers.
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:06 PM   #9
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yes I know about the free towing to the closest dealer which would have been the correct one but I doubt they could pull the car up on a flatbed from the front at least without damaging the splitter...but then again you and others have commented how the thing is built tough so who knows....this just should not happen on a new car and as ofer noted is a long documented problem. Fluid is fine and clear.

btw...can onstar send the tow truck?
They could probably tow it by the splitter If they break it, they pay for it. Hit the OnStar button or call them. No need for stress, relax

Be sure to post up what the fix is, I'm curious for sure.

" If your GM vehicle is equipped with an active OnStarŪ subscription, you can simply press the blue button for roadside service. If it is not equipped with OnStarŪ, please contact the appropriate GM Roadside Assistance number below to initiate roadside assistance for your vehicle. Our trained advisors are available 24 hours a day, 365 days a year:
  • Chevrolet: 800-243-8872
"
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:09 PM   #10
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My $.02...

Tin tops....I would get an independent, knowledgeable mechanic...(You guys should all have one available anyhow...lol) to diagnose this problem before you drop it off at a dealership for repair...

to me, it would be worth the peace of mind and take all the mystery out of it once you get it back....If the problem "goes away" on it's own intermittently, odds are the dealership will think you're crazy and not fix anything...Good luck...
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Old 07-05-2014, 01:44 PM   #11
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yes that would be smart...thanks.

This is a huge problem and an easy solution and even if this is not what caused my issue I will add the reservoir. JDP has a $60 full kit or maybe skylane can make a bracket just for the holden reservoir as noted here:http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34085

AND...my current reservoir cap LEAKS like everyone else is complaining about....sheesh..this is 3 years old at least.

ps...I guess I'm the only person out daily driving and hammering this huh!!! Last night was a monsoon and I was so excited to run her fast in the rain...bridgestones did great except for standing water...touring mode no ptm. The last 5 minutes on the highway last night very high rev shifts up and down and hard braking and then total pedal failure...just like that link noted...this happens right after that.
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Old 07-05-2014, 03:12 PM   #12
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I hope you have a better dealer than most, the word "track" sends them into it isn't covered by warranty frenzy. I took my 1LE in where the front brake calipers discolored and brake rotors looked like a spiders web, less than 5,000 miles. I battled with everyone local, no call backs from Corp GM. Good luck, so much for track ready.
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Old 07-05-2014, 04:12 PM   #13
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Just tried it to see if it came back up...nope...now can't even start the car.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:06 PM   #14
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A flat bed can be used if they put wood cribbing in front of your tires. Those hydraulic cables move slow so you can tell them to stop if you don't think it will make it. If done right it should be ok. The ZL1s have had trouble and your splitter sticks out more, just means longer pieces of wood.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:18 PM   #15
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Tow it up from the rear. The clutch must be stacked and not letting the pedal come up, it gets parts of the liner on top of other liner. Or a bad master. I see nothing wrong with one tank for break and clutch, it does use the same fluid.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:41 PM   #16
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Just tried it to see if it came back up...nope...now can't even start the car.
The switch should be on the clutch pedal. It will start in neutral ? What happens if you pull the pedal up by hand? It's the cap that leaks on the Z28. I looked at my ZL1 and Z28, the ZL1 is not leaking but fluid starting to turn brown. The Z28 shows a little fluid on the tank.
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Old 07-05-2014, 06:42 PM   #17
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used clutch fluid should have a burned tinge to it. Check to make sure all fluids(clutch/brake) are getting to the rotors/brakes. Maybe you have air in the lines?
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:17 PM   #18
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fluid is same yellow. just tried again and pulled the pedal back up and got it working for about 10 throws but would not start kept trying then got it start once...moved a foot forward and a foot back then shut it off....and I watched the pedal move down on its own this time all the way to the floor...then I grabbed my phone and tried 3 times to catch the possessed pedal in action on video but it would not do it...then it would not turn over and after maybe 5 more tries it started again so I got it in my barn and at least put away now...off to the dealer monday morning. Since it took many tries to start even with a seemingly normal pedal, I'm thinking this might be a contact or sensor issue too. I do have a continuous check engine light though that came on last night as I was limping back home.
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:31 PM   #19
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Check your bleed screw on your clutch slave cylinder it could have loosen up just
enough to lose fluid.
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Old 07-05-2014, 07:33 PM   #20
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CLUTCH FAILURE!!! WTF

My 2010 had a crappy pedal and when I had the separate clutch reservoir I finally have great pedal.

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Old 07-05-2014, 07:52 PM   #21
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I did separate reservoir and IDEAL modified clutch master cylinder two years ago,
then now the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw is loose and leak fluid till I had no
clutch pedal.
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:11 PM   #22
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I did separate reservoir and IDEAL modified clutch master cylinder two years ago,
then now the clutch slave cylinder bleed screw is loose and leak fluid till I had no
clutch pedal.
Maybe it should have been re tighten at some point , or had a lock washer installed at the time !
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Old 07-05-2014, 09:27 PM   #23
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When you bleed the clutch you have to pull the pedal up from the floor with the reservoir cap off. I think you have air in the line and if the cap is leaking fluid it is not holding pressure as well as it should. If you bleed the entire system, clutch and brakes, you should be fine. I always get help when I bleed the clutch because I can't turn the bleeder valve on the top of the trans and mash the pedal at the same time. The car only starts with the clutch pressed in and if the clutch pedal is stuck on the floor it may know it is not pressed in...Take it to your dealer and have them replace the leaky master. They will bleed the lines and get it working fine. If you need a tow just call on-star. My car has been towed many times and no one has wrecked a front spoiler yet. In the future the ideal garage kit for slave and master is a good upgrade. Keeps your brake heat away from the clutch and vice versa.
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Old 07-06-2014, 10:38 AM   #24
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AND...my current reservoir cap LEAKS like everyone else is complaining about....sheesh..this is 3 years old at least.
This will all ways leak its not a closed cap, air gets in, if it does that then fluid can get out.

but ones you separate the 2 a lot less fluid will get out, brakes pedal does not move the fluid as fast as the clutch, that's why the cap leaks.
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Old 07-06-2014, 12:47 PM   #25
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OK, at this point, have it towed to dealer via OnStar. Remove all race crap.

"I was driving the car hard, and the clutch stuck to the floor! Please fix it."

Now you will have a fresh clutch.

DO NOT slip the clutch at WOT with TC or SC on. Use high temp fluid. Flush fluid on a regular interval.

Didn't I warn you? This is not even unique to Chevy, but it is a known issue when racing Chevys since 1997. There is not really an engineering fix unless you abolish single disc clutches or manual transmissions. Clutches get stupid hot.
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