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TAG's 2010 THRSS #2
As featured on homepage.
This is my Journal....a story of how the second built THRSS (Tom Henry Racing Super Sport Camaro) came to be. I'm going to try to update this thread with all the important and interesting points that came to be during this process. But, for me....a 31 year old Camaro enthusiast who'd loved Camaros since "Better off Dead" so many years ago, this is a dream...a complete and utter dream...and I'm going to do my best to document this unbelievable roller coaster ride right here for all to see. This is my story....and I hope you all enjoy.;) ~Tag Mods to date: EXTERIOR: 1. Custom paint - SIM hood and hockeys outlined in Wave Blue Metallic - Tom Henry Racing 2. Rear panel painted SIM - Tom Henry Racing 3. Bowties custom painted (front SIM & rear CGM w/ WBM blue line) - Lupe @ Overhaulinengines 4. Wheels - Factory Reproductions ZL1 style #41 20x10's Doug at Factory Reproductions 5. MPD1 spoiler (CGM) - Eric @ MPD1 6. Heritage grill (CGM) - Maureen and Becky @ Rodgers Chevrolet 7. ZL1 front bumper w/ halo and harness 8. Tail light bezels painted CGM 9. ZL1 side skirts 10. ZL1 fender flares INTERIOR: 1. Leather arm rest - Indpower 2. Center console 4 gauge pack - Indpower 2. Custom Dash Plaque - Emblempros 3. Full Dash ABL and extended door ABL - ME!:D 4. 15/30 Tint - Custom Sounds SATX 5. Footwell Lighting - Done by AAC INTAKE/EXHAUST/DRIVELINE: 1. Stainless Works Long Tube Headers w/ 2" primaries, high flow cats, full 3" straight out the back - Bill @ Stainless Works 2. Roto-Fab CAI and Roto-Fab Radiator cover (personally signed by GM team and all Oshawa employees who built my car) Thanks, Robert! 3. ADM Race Scoop w/ APEX windshield bottle relocation kit - ApexChase 4. Hurst Short Throw Shifter - Subzero05 5. SLP SSE -Dave @ SLP Performance 6. Stainless Steel Brake Lines - MTI Racing LIGHTING: 1. Showstoppers front amber / rear red LED's (turn signals) custom painted 2. Showstoppers front chrome "hide away" blinker bulbs 3. Halo harness and HID fogs 4. AAC full LED light kid inside and rear plate, footwell lighting 5. Custom under hood engine cover w/ dual LED cutouts - Thanks, Robert! Pedders Suspension 1. Pedders Pedders Supercar Coilovers 2. Pedders FE5 rear FE4 Sway Bars 3. Pedders rear cradle bush inserts 4. Pedders front radius bush inserts 5. Pedders Dual Bearing Camber Plates AUDIO: Thanks to Chris & Brandon @ Custom Sounds Walzem/35 SATX 1. JL 600/6 AMP 2. JL 600/1 AMP 3. JL 10" W7 with ported box 4. Focal 6.5 V30 Components (front) 5. Hertz 6x9 (rear) 6. Hertz 3.5 (center channel) 7. LC6i Digital Processor + bass knob |
October 20th....
A week after orders have begun to be placed, I decide today............today..............IS the day.;) And so it began....... Quote:
Yes. Since this day, some changes were made to the order. |
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.....Time goes by.......
....................Orders are being taken...... .........other cars are being built............ We learn that one of the items on constraint is the Cyber Gray Metallic paint color. until one day......................;) I'm woken up....by a couple text messages..... Quote:
I STILL can't believe this one........ ....how nuts is this.....:laugh: |
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Then......
.......a little birdy came along.............. ..and sung a song into my ear.............................:D Hylton..........TOPLS1..........THANK YOU. ......and there might be another thank you in there too.....:laugh: but......I don't know who that would go too....:D But....suddenly.....the first ever pictures of a cyber gray metallic SS hit the pages of Camaro5. Quote:
Another one of those....."you gotta be kiddin' me...." feelings. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...lies/faint.gif |
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Even more time goes by..................
.........................until May 4th, 2009....................... ....when I'm woken up with text messages, emails, ....................... ............and they read...."HERE!!!" and "MORE"....and "MORE 2".......and "MORE 3".......and all these pictures are attached to the emails I'm reading on my phone............. TIME TO GET UP!!!:laugh: I turn on the computer and open my email....there they are...... ........and there is CGM#1 being taken off the transport truck.......... Oh yeah....it's a beautiful day!!! Quote:
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This same day, I'm asked, "Do you want me to put your Camaro in the Stainless Works trailer to have the exhaust fitted?"
......After a quick discussion, it's a YES!!!............... And so it goes......on May 4th to Ohio........ .....................and is there for 2 1/2 weeks.... ......and then..... .......................the day before it goes back to Toms........... ......I'm told of some "videos of a cyber gray metallic Camaro SS on youtube"................. .....and I'm told they were from Stainless Works................. .......................OH BOY......................... I've never gotten so HOT so quickly!!!!! But there they were.....of my car...... UPDATED: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32310 Quote:
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May 26th.....some pictures show up in my email..............
.................it has begun.............. The left side shows top of cowl......the right side is inclusive of the cowl side. The bottom picture shows the "fixed" hockey....there was another taped off differently which made the front look too wide. |
Wednesday, May 27th....
I call Randolph Brooks Federal Credit Union and get approved my 20k loan at 3.8%. .......Good day.;) |
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One of our own went waaaay out of his way to do some good for a few very lucky enthusiasts who ordered a new Camaro.
I was one of the lucky recipients of a lithograph signed by all the Oshawa line workers who built my 2SS/RS. June 2nd...1647 hours, I pick it up from Sigoloff Frame and Art off Broadway...San Antonio, TX. Click this link for more info... |
Taken from later post...06-05-09
Okie Dokie.... So....here we go w/ the paint. Remember, this is NOT finished as we are still planning on changing out the wheels and adding a few more cosmetic items. This is a work IN PROGRESS. Next step... Figure out what color the bowtie should be. I'm thinking blue to match the pin stripes. We were discussing SS emblems in front and back. But, I'm not sure if we can get those done to actually fit the front grill. We'll see.... For now, I think Tom is going to tape off the front bow tie with blue tape so we can get a feel. Now...the car is CGM. I wanted the contrast of bright on the dark. So, on came the Silver Ice Metallic. I've always loved the blue (similar to the Henessey type car) but didn't want blue hockey's. I wanted silver. In fact, this paint job is the opposite of my wife's SUV...funny. Her's is silver w/ dark gray...:laugh:...love it. So, we used Silver Ice Metallic on the hockey's and on the center stripe. I don't know if you can really see it yet, but there are two clear coats with blue pearl added to it. That way, we get the blue flake in the paint just like the CGM. The blue (GM 08 - Wave Blue Effect Metallic) was used for the pin stripes. This will also help to bring out the blue flake in the CGM and SIM. The pins are 1/8th in width. Anyway...enough of the talking. Check them out and enjoy! Oh..and ya'll think blue on the bow tie? Or, chrome....or blue SS's or chrome SS's...sheooot...I can't make up my mind. IDEAS ARE WELCOME. Oh...and picture #1 of the white Z28 (in disguise) was the inspiration behind this all...this is what I saw a year ago and what's been in my mind FOREVER.... http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q..._IT_2008/2.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...Paint/DOUG.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG1.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG2.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG3.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG7.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG4.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG5.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG6.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG8.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...aint/DOUG9.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...int/DOUG13.jpg http://i439.photobucket.com/albums/q...int/DOUG10.jpg |
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And the pictures began to roll in....
Updated 06-18-09 next up? .........we need some paint on the sides of the cowl............ ..............let's get it workin'!!!!!!!! .............. ...maybe a little "THR" in CGM and "SS" in that same wave blue metallic.......;) Oh...and we need some wheels..... |
July 1st, 2009...
Registration, taxes, and license fees were paid on my car today. Total damage?....$2,255.68 at the tax office. Ugh....I hate taxes. July 2nd, 2009... Custom Sounds installs my Formula 1 window tint. 15% on the rear (I've had the limo for years and I'd finally like to be able to see out the back on this one...) and 30% on the sides. Yes...I actually decided to go legal. :D Custom Sounds also takes a look at my trunk space. THIS is going to be a good one. We are going to have a ported subwoofer box built and installed for the trunk. They are going to wire the entire system and claim they can make this single speaker thump better than my previous 10 and 12 JL's TOGETHER. So, we'll see what they have to offer. I WILL be updating this thread/post for pictures of the install. I can't wait to see their work. This should be interesting.;) 07-10-2009 Here's the install with pix I promised. It's a custom box and it really is a good job. I was surprised at the quality of the box and the install. I gotta hand it to Custom Sounds. They really did a stellar job at the install. The quality of the video is okay. The sound ok. The popping has to be the camera. July 13th, 2009 As silly as this may sound, all you guys n' gals out there running around with stuff in your trunk will quickly figure out that the carpet just doesn't like to stay in place! All that stuff slides from side to side any time you turn left or right. When that stuff slides, it slides the entire carpet. I opened my trunk to find my bags all the way on the left side of my trunk and all my carpet bunched up. Solution? Velcro. Talk about easy. Just run out to your local home depot, wal mart, target, etc. and pick up a couple small boxes of velcro. Lift up the carpet and line the bottom edges with the velcro cutting the strips to fit and then stick them the ones on the bottom in place. Take off the top sticky liner and simply drop the carpet in place securing it by pressing down firmly. Pretty simple. Cost?...$15.00 for one large box to cover the entire trunk. Time?...5 min. I have not had a problem with sliding carpet since...and it just pulls right out if I need to remove the carpet. I know it may sound silly like I already said. But, I don't like my stuff sliding back and forth in the trunk. |
07-14-09
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12-05-09
I got my Hurst Short Throw Shifter delivered a couple days ago (Thanks, Chris!!!) and FINALLY had an opportunity to get in the garage to get it installed. :headbang: Like all my installations, I like to help out others with DIY threads so that everyone can see for themselves how the installation works. This following thread should be used as a tool (along with the directions for the install provided by Hurst) to help you get your new shifter installed with ease. First, let me tell you that this install is EASY. If you have any mechanical experience, this is super easy. For someone who's never done anything like this before, follow the directions and you'll be fine. Anyone can do this....and it's actually fun to do it yourself. No need to pay the local guy $100 for install when you can get it done in 45 minutes.;) Onward to the pix and video!!!!:D First things first, open that box up and make sure all your parts are there. Included in the box are:
Tools needed for the install:
Once you have all the parts down, make sure you have a clean, flat surface to work on...or a lift which is preferable. I did this in my own garage using a floor jack and two jack stands. But...I would have preferred to use a lift (if you can get one). To start: Use a trim tool to lift up the silver surround (trim/gauge cluster) that goes around the shifter. If you use a flat head (which I don't recommend), USE CAUTION. Scratching the piece is SO easy to do. I decided to slide my fingers under the very bottom right side of the center console and completely pull off the right side cover. I reached under finding two tabs that held the center silver piece in place and pushed them up. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1403.jpg The silver surround popped right up and I removed it laying it over the right side on the floor (never even needing a trim tool or screwdriver). http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1404.jpg No need to disconnect any wires as this part will not get in the way. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1405.jpg Next part is to unscrew the 4 screws that hold the shift boot ring in place. Put them in the cup holder for later. Two on either side... http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1406.jpg Next, pull up sharply on the stock shifter. You might need to twist it ever so gently and rock it a bit to get it to come up. It DOES take some force. Don't worry...you won't break it. It'll just pop right up. NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU UNSCREW THE 4 SCREWS FIRST....if not, and you pull up on the shifter, that shifter is going to continue going upward with all that force you put into it and the leather boot will come up straight off that boot ring. You'll have to use a flat head to align and pinch the leather back into the holding tabs. Ask me how I know this...:facepalm: http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1407.jpg Next, put the car on a lift or use the floor jack to lift it up...put it on jack stands so it doesn't fall on ya! Safety first! http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1408.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1409.jpg The next step is easy....(as they pretty much all are)... Use the small extension, ratchet, and your 15mm socket to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the rear transmission cross member bolts. Be careful not to loosen them up too much. It'll drop about 1/2 to 1 inch giving you better access to the shifter. I unscrewed them one at a time and allowed the first one to completely come out. I screwed it back in a few full revolutions and repeated for all 4 bolts. I'm pointing to the two bolts on either side shown here. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1411.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1412.jpg Next part is to pull the dust boot forward (putting it back is an utter PAIN). http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1420.jpg Under that dust boot, you'll see the shifter. There are two connection pin clips on both sides of the lower shifter. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1422.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1428.jpg Included directions show a flat head being used to push them off the pin. I was able to remove them by hand. Once you have the pin clips removed, slide out the cross pin either way and disconnect the change rod from the shifter allowing it to hand out of the way. I actually pushed mine backwards to the rear of the car (probably putting it in gear). But, it got it out of the way a bit. Then, use that long ratchet extension, a 10mm socket, and your ratchet to remove the two mounting screws and mounting plate. You won't need those anymore. Pull down firmly on the shifter and it'll pop right out. It's a bit of a pain getting it around the change rod, but if you angle it to the drivers side when pulling it out, it'll come out. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1430.jpg Next step is to use the supplied grease and grease up those O rings on the new shifter and pop it up in place. Remember, the longer stepped side of the lower bushings go towards the driver and the ridges of the upper stick connection to the passenger. Pop it up in place (it'll stay by itself) and line up the mounting screw holes. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1437.jpg Here comes the tough part... Use the provided Locktight (adhesive) placing a drop onto either counter sunk mounting screw. Reach up there with your allen wrench and tighten them down. There is NOT a lot of room at all to work in there. It's a pain... Just stick with it and you'll get them screwed in. Then attach the connecting rod to the lower shifter bushings sliding the cross pin in place. Secure the cross pin back in place with the locking clips you took off earlier. Next up? Put that dust boot back in place. This was a pain since there is no room to work under there. Just get one side in place and pull the tabs (one at a time) to stretch the boot around and it'll pop back in place in it's grooves. Now, double check the boot and make sure it's all good. Tighten those 4 transmission cross member bolts back up with your 15 mm socket wrench and your in business. Drop the car back down. Using one of the supplied boot supports, slide it down over the shifter stub stick. Then work the rubber boot into the groove of the boot support. Push it down far enough so that it clears the two screw holes. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1445.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1446.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1447.jpg Either use the chrome Hurst handle or stock OEM stick for stock handle shifter. I used the chrome handle for now. Slide the other boot support on the Hurst handle passed the mounting holes. Remove the stock shifter handle by cutting the zip tie. Replace with the Hurst shifter and line up the leather boot around the boot support using the new zip tie to secure the leather to the boot support. Easy to do...just reverse the process in taking apart the original. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1448.jpg Here's another angle since that first one was blurry. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1452.jpg Line up the groves on the chrome handle to the lower Hurst shift stick and screw in the mounting screws with washers one at a time. I hand tightened mine while holding the shifter in place so that the shifter handle grooves were sure to line up. I then tightened them down properly with my allen wrench. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1453.jpg Then, just put the boot ring back into place screwing it back down w/ the 4 screws left in your cup holder. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1455.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1456.jpg Screw the nut onto the top of the Hurst shifter and screw on the white "Q ball." You have to use a wrench after getting the Q ball screwed on to align properly...tighten the screw to keep it in place. Then, just toss the silver console/gauge cluster back in place and you are ready to rock. Make sure you can shift through all the gears. It might be tough at first, but start the car and keep the clutch in. It moved really tight and was hard to get into revers for mine...until I started the car. Then, it moved into reverse with ease. http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1459.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1460.jpg http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/100_1461.jpg Summary on the install? EASY. There is LITTLE room to work up there around the driveshaft...and that is the ONLY drawback. Other than that, it's a breeze. Very simple install process. And my final opinion on the shifter? :confused0068: TOTALLY different from the stock OEM shifter. MAJOR difference. If you know anyone with a short throw shifter and have not yet run through the gears, dude...you HAVE to try it. It is UNBELIEVABLE. The two MAIN differences between stock and Hurst are the firmness of the shifts through the gates (waaaay too smooth with stock - I swear, it always felt like I was going to break that stock shifter handle when shifting quickly) and the throw distance. It is immediately apparent that you don't have to move the shifter as far. When rowing through the gears, you FEEL the Hurst shifter go into each gear almost with a "click." It is FIRM. You can FEEL it. If you want smooth, easy, and mushy, stick with stock. If you want to feel your shifts, this is the shifter for you. You KNOW when you shift into gear.:thumbup: Yeah...so far, I LOVE it. I have not yet "gotten on it." But, when I have the chance, I will...and I'll let ya'll know how it goes. I believe it honest reviews of the parts I put in my car. If I don't like it, I'll say it. Not the case here. I LOVE the shifter so far. :clap: Great job, Hurst!!! Now...for those back ordered black Hurst knobs.....http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p...es/waiting.gif :laugh: |
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That's a big hockey stick hehe. What color are you getting for them?
If you're looking for opinions...ahem... to me the hood stripe looks best on the driver side. The hockey stick looks a bit much. These are my ideas on the hockey stick... The first one shows the stick in black; the second one shows the edge in white so you can see what's different from the blue taped one. The part heading back towards the door is tapering and would end at the rear door edge. Absolutely beautiful color BTW. |
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http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h1...N-ANIMATED.gif it's about as close to an escort as anyone can ever get on delivery! |
Looks good, I can definitely picture your idea now and all I can say is, wow!
I know were aren't voting, but I think it should go to the bottom of the cowl |
No...I'd LOVE opinions on the stripes. I have decided that it WILL go down the edges of the cowl. The hockey stripes, on the other hand....that's what we are discussing. I don't want them too large, but I do want them to dip lower than what GM has...well below the turn signal. Well...basically just like you see here. Still thinking on the hockeys.
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Man, I cannot believe how those exhaust guys drove your car that hard before break in........ not trying to make you feel bad, but I would have made them by me a new one...no BS. That is the worst thing to do before break in! :facepalm:
My car will not leave my site until broken in.:confused0068: |
yeah...but look at those numbers! I mean...I have a feeling that they are off. But, if this Camaro is REALLY dyno'ing at 416 rear wheel HP, then NASA, we got a problem!!! Because AFTER the exhaust install, we are looking at 440hp. That means an easy 490 or so hp at the fly wheel.
Again, this is speculative since....well....this just really sounds off. SW's also thought it to be weird. But, I would NEVER give up this car! CGM #1....crazy jacked up super power engine....:laugh: ...this is just getting too good, man! I'm over the hard driving they did. I'm good. I'll have plenty of time to baby her into the best piece of machinery ever....;) |
I really like the longer hockey stripes and definitely like the "over the mail-slot" look way better than the stock vinyl's. You will definitely have a unique looking Camaro let alone the first Cyber Grey. :)
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Well I know who I won't be trusting to do the exhaust on my ss when I get it. Thanks to this journal, I'll be very watchful of whose working on this car and what they do with it when I'm not babysitting.
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awesome
Thanks for the story and video of your Camaro,
really :w00t: :drool: :clap: Will it be ready for Camaro Nationals? |
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Nice writeup Tag! You'll have the biggest smile on the block for a year after getting your hands on this thing! :thumbup: :drinking: |
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That would be TOO cool, man. "Here ya go Doug! Here is your 'stock'....car!":sm0: Quote:
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Now, that's an interesting thought.... GMPP Cam?
hmmmmm. |
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Here are a few snaps to show my guess at your color for stripes: the first one with my style, a second version based on your longer stripe, and one with a full unbroken stripe like you have taped off.
Just my personal opinion but I think the stick should break at the turn signal light. This is also consistent with the old Camaros except they had the engine size number in the break area. The break also compliments the lower edge of the front grill opening. I like either one with the short or long bottom stick. This car is going to be gorgeous when done. :) |
I believe Tag is having them painted on, so it will go around the side marker, and should have no break at the body lines from front fascia to fender.
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Tag' - is THR going to remove the front bumper cover for the paint by chance? If they do that, then they could carry the color of the stripes into the gap itself, on both the facia and the fenders. Painting them on the car is going to be messy and that basecoat is just going to blow into the gap and run. I'm sure they've gotta' be removing the cover. That being the case, you won't have a break at those gaps that'll be too noticable, IMHO. I keep watching those videos and think to myself that I might have to pizz the wifey off and get LTs, LOL! :headbang: GAWD - that thing sounds cool! |
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You don't need to remove the bumper... Any good paint gun breaks down the paint into such a fine mist that would not be an issue, hell even a rattle can wouldn't have that problem. You will not see any gap with the original paint behind it at the front bumper cover & fender, those touch. It's not a gap like around the doors, hood, or trunk. Sure on those you would have a gap, but there's nothing at all you can do about them looking dark behind a light color stripe. Just look at a light colored car, the entire car is painted in pieces but you still see dark in the gaps, just because the light isn't getting in there to show there's white behind it (or at least not enough to where it looks the same as the rest of the car). You will see a slight line where the fender and front bumper meet due to the edge being ever so slightly rounded at the end of the panel, causing the paint to reflect light in a slightly different manner, but you will not see the factory paint color behind it. For example, here's a silver car, you can barely see the line at the front bumper cover, but it's just because of the light reflection, it's not actually a gap like around the doors where you see dark behind it. And remember even on the door gap, that's the same silver color behind it, it's just darker because of the lack of light coming out of the gap. http://www.blogcdn.com/www.autoblog....arobj09_03.jpg And here's a good example of what I mean by the different lighting, both picts are of the same car, same camera, just 2 slightly different angles. The first you really have to look to tell where the line is, the 2nd is obvious just because of the light being reflected slightly differently. It's still all painted silver, no gap, but at that angle of light reflection you see the line easily now. http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...3&d=1223585994 http://www.camaro5.com/forums/attach...4&d=1223585994 Hope that makes sense. :drinking: |
Sweet cannot wait to see the finished product. Remember get with Tom about your custom car show display stand for the car.
Sean |
With all do respect - I disagree. The pictures posted are not from the same angles and distances from the camera as the ones in this post (not to mention the appearance of that gap changes significantly with respect to camera angle). In addition, that urethane and metal are going to contract/flex/expand at different rates - it might look good for a little while, but probably won't last a substantial amount of time. Cracks are going to form and that paint (clearcoat and maybe basecoat) is likely to start to flake. The color of the stripe and the car is also likely to play at least a small role in the optical illusion in the gap of the stripe too. A darker car will hide the gap better while the opposite for a lighter color. Likewise for the color of the stripes. The only way, to my understanding, to get this to work on other gaps between the panels on the car (i.e. like fenders, doors, quarter panels, hood and trunk gaps, etc.) would be to backtape or use something like 3M™ Soft Edge Foam Masking Tape; neither of those would likely work or be practical in this specific instance though.
The bottom line is, the correct way to paint a bumper cover, to insure complete clearcoat coverage, is off the car, just like at the factory. They don't paint the car with the bumper covers on - at least in any shot I've ever seen. I-Car, Tech-Cor, PPG, Dupont, and others say this too to my recollection. There's just not enough room to get the paint gun in the gap to get the clearcoat around the edges. Or, go to a bodyshop that does quality paint and ask them what the correct way is, and how that paint would lay down in that gap if the facia is left on there. If you ask me, and how I wrote things (and even how insurance companies wrote things; and yes, FWIW - I worked at a bodyshop for more than five years and a dealership five years before that, writing estimates and controlling repairs on all my customer's cars) one might find an agreement with me. But I digress... I'm sure Tag' and THR have worked all of this out :) I didn't mean to sidetrack, but I think there are some things to think about and consider :D |
I don't know if they will be removing the front clip. I would think so, but I'm sure they aren't going to do a half @ssed job either.
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I don't want to :threadjacked: Tag's wonderful journal any more than we already have, but that was the main point I was attempting to make. I've spent my share of time hanging around in multiple reputable body shops (including some factory ones, my dad sold one of his '70 Challengers to the manager a long time ago, we've been family friends since & his old boss who introduced us to him now owns his own repair shop) & don't think I've ever seen them pull a panel for just stripes, it wouldn't surprise me if some do though. But it's not necessary for this particular panel junction on solely a paint coverage standpoint. I've seen them do all kinds of tricks repairing & painting cars, but I never paid attention if they do anything when painting panels on modern cars that are so close they touch like that. Isn't one of the guys I've seen around a few times on the board a professional body/paint guy? I'm sure he knows the answer to that, but as far as Tag & this thread are concerned... Quote:
Tag please feel free to delete any of my posts on this subject to clean up your thread. I'm not curious enough to post a new one to ask the real pro's since it's not happening to my car any time soon :yikes: :laugh: But feel free to toss it in a new one if you're curious, or I'll move them over if someone else does. That's just my experience, YMMV. :drinking: |
I am seriously looking forward to how the custom stripes/hood will look- never thought of that style in paint for some odd reason.
oh...btw....damn you lol- I NEED MY CAR NOW arg... |
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^Well....as of now? 27 days left!!!! Here are some more of the 2nd set of pix...
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Tag, you're gonna have quite a car there, thanks for keeping us posted.
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Tag, it gets better every day!
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