Havoc Diffuser Painting

[Saint Alban]

I'm expecting my havoc rear diffuser some time next week. I got it "Unfinished/Ready for paint". I would like it to be a flat/matte black or just the same as the factory diffuser looks, but to order it already painted was an extra $295. I could take it to a paint shop that I know which would charge maybe $100. To save every penny, I'm wondering how I can do it myself? I've never painted a part that large before, but I know there are plastic primer sprays and flat black paint sprays. How should I go about this?

For those who aren't familiar with the havoc rear diffuser:




Also, if it looks good enough out of the box, I may just mount it as is, but I've never seen it in person unpainted.

"The HAVOC Diffuser, by Innovative Vehicle Solutions, is Reaction Injection Molded Uerthane providing the same durability, fit and finish as OEM parts. The HAVOC Rear Diffuser comes ready for paint...."

[scythezo6]

If you want it flat black just do it yourself. If you want it body colored take it to the shop for sure. Flat black is so easy to paint. Just scuff up the surface and hit it with some flat black of choice and make sure to get the paint textures to match up so you dont see any paint "strokes".

Post up some pics of it out of the box, maybe it will look good enough or close enough to stock black to just throw it on. If not, see above =P

[Muscle SS]

Plasti dip!!!!!

[scythezo6]

I wouldnt plasti-dip. Shit from the road flings up and hits the diffuser all the time. Plus you can easily scrape the plasti-dip off with a simple slip of the finger when washing the car. I have my front bumper in front of the grill plasti-dipped and I already scratched a few small pieces off while washing =/ Plasti-dip is cool and I love it but for something as big as a diffuser, I'd use paint.

[Saint Alban]

Originally Posted by scythezo6

If you want it flat black just do it yourself. If you want it body colored take it to the shop for sure. Flat black is so easy to paint. Just scuff up the surface and hit it with some flat black of choice and make sure to get the paint textures to match up so you dont see any paint "strokes".

Post up some pics of it out of the box, maybe it will look good enough or close enough to stock black to just throw it on. If not, see above =P

That's what I figured. If it were a glossy color, I'd definitely get a professional. And what you said about paint textures and "strokes" you mean just make sure I spray everything evenly right? And since I'm an amateur at spraying, what should I scuff it up with specifically? And should I use a plastic primer first or just do only the flat black?

[ballistic]

You should use Adhesion Promoter before painting it.

[Saint Alban]

Originally Posted by ballistic

You should use Adhesion Promoter before painting it.

Is that before, after, or instead of primer?

[ballistic]

Originally Posted by Saint Alban

Is that before, after, or instead of primer?

Before primer or paint. You prob could do with out the primer tho. 2-3 coats of flat or matte black would suffice.

[Saint Alban]

Ok, so scuffing isn't needed either?

[ballistic]

Originally Posted by Saint Alban

Ok, so scuffing isn't needed either?

I still would scuff a little, just to give it something to stick to.

[ballistic]

I see your also in NY... I would make sure you are doing this in a heated garage or on a nice warm day.

[custompainter]

If the part comes un-primed (bare plastic) and you are happy with the looks,leave it alone.

If the part comes primed,then you need to paint it. Primer is not meant to be exposed to the elements,chemicals,etc. It will most likely degredate and turm white-ish over time.

If you do paint it,follow these steps.

1. Wash with hot soapy water(dawn liquid is best) until the water no longer continues to "bead" on the surface. You can do this with a green scotchbrite pad. DO NOT use sand paper on plastic parts! This step is to remove the release agents used in the manufacturing process to keep the part from sticking to the mold. Most often it is parafin that is used. Paint WILL NOT stick to parafin. So it is vital that this release agent is completely removed from the part. There are products made just for this purpose.

2. Wipe part down with a cleaner(degreaser)recommended for plastics. Allow product enough time to completely evaporate from part surface.

3. Wipe part down thoroughly with a "tack cloth" (available at parts stores)to remove any dust particles. Be carefull not to push too hard with the tack cloth. You dont want to transfer the sticky medium on the cloth to the part.

4. Spray the art with the recommended number of coats with "adehesion promoter" made specifically for plastics. Allow proper flash(drying)time.

5. Spray part with choice of Flat black paint.(this paint MUST be recommended for plastics) Follow manufacturers directions. Allow to dry in a warm dry place for at least 8 hrs before handling.

You can skip the adhesion promoter if the part is already primed. (not recommended)
Just make sure to follow steps 1-3. The primer should appear "dull" or "scuffed" looking before continuing. Make sure to scuff all areas,including "nooks" and "crannys" lol.

Good luck on your project! You should have a part that will last for years!....Mikey

[Saint Alban]

Originally Posted by custompainter

If the part comes un-primed (bare plastic) and you are happy with the looks,leave it alone.

If the part comes primed,then you need to paint it. Primer is not meant to be exposed to the elements,chemicals,etc. It will most likely degredate and turm white-ish over time.

If you do paint it,follow these steps.

1. Wash with hot soapy water(dawn liquid is best) until the water no longer continues to "bead" on the surface. You can do this with a green scotchbrite pad. DO NOT use sand paper on plastic parts! This step is to remove the release agents used in the manufacturing process to keep the part from sticking to the mold. Most often it is parafin that is used. Paint WILL NOT stick to parafin. So it is vital that this release agent is completely removed from the part. There are products made just for this purpose.

2. Wipe part down with a cleaner(degreaser)recommended for plastics. Allow product enough time to completely evaporate from part surface.

3. Wipe part down thoroughly with a "tack cloth" (available at parts stores)to remove any dust particles. Be carefull not to push too hard with the tack cloth. You dont want to transfer the sticky medium on the cloth to the part.

4. Spray the art with the recommended number of coats with "adehesion promoter" made specifically for plastics. Allow proper flash(drying)time.

5. Spray part with choice of Flat black paint.(this paint MUST be recommended for plastics) Follow manufacturers directions. Allow to dry in a warm dry place for at least 8 hrs before handling.

You can skip the adhesion promoter if the part is already primed. (not recommended)
Just make sure to follow steps 1-3. The primer should appear "dull" or "scuffed" looking before continuing. Make sure to scuff all areas,including "nooks" and "crannys" lol.

Good luck on your project! You should have a part that will last for years!....Mikey

Great instructions. I think I'll follow this completely.

Originally Posted by ballistic

I see your also in NY... I would make sure you are doing this in a heated garage or on a nice warm day.

I don't think we've got any warm days left till next year, lol. But I can heat my garage.

I will post how it looks out of the box though. To share and if I can't tell between primed and bare.

[scythezo6]

Originally Posted by Saint Alban

That's what I figured. If it were a glossy color, I'd definitely get a professional. And what you said about paint textures and "strokes" you mean just make sure I spray everything evenly right? And since I'm an amateur at spraying, what should I scuff it up with specifically? And should I use a plastic primer first or just do only the flat black?

Yeah if you are not careful with your spray strokes you can see it in the paint and the shine or texture of the paint will be uneven and you can see a "stroke" or strip of paint that doesnt match. Just make sure your paint sprays/passes are all the same speed and distance from the part so you can evenly coat it with paint. Also always have the spray can in motion while painting so you dont over coat one spot which leads to paint running. I'd recommend practicing on some junk plastic part 1st. Like the inside of an old trash can lid or something. Get your technique down 1st so you only have to spray your diffuser once good luck, let us know how it turns out!