3,000 Miles - No "Metal Shavings" - Anyone Else?

[ZYAL8R]

Originally Posted by Stang_Killer

I couldn't tell you about 3,000 because I had mine changed at 1,500 and they said everything looked A O K

[ZYAL8R]

Originally Posted by mmbarberoilman

I can not believe folks are talking about SHAVINGS on a dipstick, Are you kidding me? Any new car with new oil should not have shavings especially if you happen to use an OIL FILTER. Shavings? Use a better oil and filter in the first place and you would not expect to see shavings. Yea, another commercial. Amsoil 0W-30 in it at 2000 miles and changed the rear end too to Amsoil. That oil will remain in the car indefinately. Look up the Amsoil Dual Remote oil filtration system. It will be on the car soon. First of all I did not look for shavings from Mobile 1. Come on people, it is a better product than to produce shavings. Granted it is not even close to the Amsoil, but still it is a very decent product. The Amsoil is good for 1 year or 35,000 miles on the change. Of course this car will not see that amount of miles in a few years. Once you install a by pass system you forget about changing the oil!!! Period. Nothing new about it. On the market from Amsoil since early 80's. For those of you that cringe on those statements, first of all it is NOT possible with your oil or filters. Your manufacturer chooses to produce the products you use. They could do better IF they wanted too.

What do you know about AMSOIL?

[FNKNSTN]

Originally Posted by UCI CamaroFan

Any kind of debris in the oil, be it metal shavings or dirt, can and will cause harm eventually.

Just use your common sense man. What happens if there is debris in the oil? well, the oil lubricates the cylinders, and if the cylinder have some kind of debris rubbing against it, it will generate heat and then ultimately do damage to the walls of the cylinder. This damage may not be much at first, but it will eventually damage the car. This is why people get oil changes.

Now, I don't know why you felt the need to type in huge bold and colored letters in 2 posts basically back to back. Chill out.

That's opposite the point of what people are saying on here. "Debris" is being found in the filter, not the oil.

Originally Posted by DarricSS

Have you ever changed an Oil filter and cross-sectioned it after an initial break-in at 500 miles? If not, try it. Then you'll know why.

But since you are already at 3000+ miles, i see why you are screaming in bright red letters now.

Ok? Do you wrap your lips around it and blow so you can feel how much the "metal shavings" impede the flow?

Originally Posted by ahart04

there is no 'specific harm'....little pieces get stuck inside small/moving parts inside the head/block. they are not big enough to cause an immediate problem. if you do not change your oil soon, to answer your question, you run the risk of beginning your engine in what could be
an underlying chronic problem, only to expose itself after many thousands of miles....so its not like little pieces blow up or seize your engine. allthough oil filters work, they arent perfect, every car has damaging contaminants in the oil...technology works to reduce as much as possible. that being said, the advantages you get, and even the disadvantages can be too small to notice.

i only responded to prevent myself from seeing a font size 88 tomorrow.

If I could use 88 size font, I would. That's just about what it took to get any answers around here.

Sounds like you answered out of speculation. I could have made up what COULD happen on my own.

Originally Posted by Doc

Stop and think about it a minute. Why do you think they have oil filters in the first place? Same reason there are air filters maybe?

If small metal particles are circulating throughout your engine, moving over, around, under and through the valves, springs, rollers, bearings, lifters, inside the pistons, crankshaft and every moving part in the engine... what do you suppose COULD happen if small shavings of metal were to get into and between those moving parts? Just imagine washing your car with small shavings of metal caught under your sponge. Do you still need it explained?

We are not seeing "metal shavings" circulating in the oil.

Should I assume that you do two quick back-to-back oil changes to flush everything that clings to your valves, springs, rollers, bearings, lifters, pistons, crankshaft and every moving part in the engine? - - - - Or do you change it just once, and let all that stuff scratch everything up and get stuck in between all those moving parts?

[ACDC1710]

All engines have some type of break in. Those particles should get trapped by the filter but if filter not changed before it clogs up it will build up enough pressure to cause the bypass valve to open. Then the oil bypasses the filter completely and circulates the dirty oil throughout the engine. The particles can go anywhere but one of the main components they effect the most are rod, camshaft, and main bearings. Not only are they one of the first components to get oil but they are also made of a soft material. All of the bearing are made usually with a lead/tin overlay. If you have handled lead before you know how soft it is and pieces of metal from rings, cylinder walls and other items made of steel or iron will easily scratch or imbed themselves in the bearings. That is partly what the overlay is for to imbed those objects instead of wearing more expensive items such as cams and crankshafts. But any metal items to get through the filter will eventually cause more rapid wear.

[Banshee]

Originally Posted by FNKNSTN

That's opposite the point of what people are saying on here. "Debris" is being found in the filter, not the oil. We are not seeing "metal shavings" circulating in the oil.

Should I assume that you do two quick back-to-back oil changes to flush everything that clings to your valves, springs, rollers, bearings, lifters, pistons, crankshaft and every moving part in the engine? - - - - Or do you change it just once, and let all that stuff scratch everything up and get stuck in between all those moving parts?

Uh...again...Wrong. I changed my oil with a NEW pan. I found copper, aluminum and took a magnet and found what? Iron. The filter element was removed and found what? same thing...the oil itself took a light silver "aluminum" look to the top layer. I believe someone else beat me to his 500 oil change picture of this. It is posted. Again...I drove my car NOT to what the manufacturer recommended. My uncle helped develop the LS engine in the early 90's and when I bought my 98 T/A, I went to him for advice. He said break it in hard, yet you must do an oil change before 1000k. That advice relates to any engine broken in hard. GM touts easy driving as to NOT get increased metal contaminants in the first 1500 miles so the foreign metal particulate is minimal. All I can advise, and I am no "know-it-all" is that common sense dictates that IF you drive outside the normal mandated break in GM recommends, you must/shall/should make appropriate adjustments to accomodate that severe wear that I deem appropriate. GM will NOT tell you or give anyone an "optional" severe (to me proper) break in because most people will not change their oil and is a liability for warranty purposes.

Furthermore, the more an oil filter gets clogged, the pressure does what? It increases. The bypass valve opens after say 10 psi. Yes, there still is debris in the bottom of my oil pan AFTER I change my oil and there will always be. Thats why is is imperative to do oil changes after the vehicle is up to normal operating temps. This way, all the suspended particles are floating in a very hot and very thin liquid and while draining will pick up alot of the residue on the oil pan floor.

My 98 was sold in March with 168K and the engine was wearing excellent per Blackstone...and was broken in hard from the dealer..burned no oil and was cared for with two oil changes prior to 5000k.

Do what each of you deem appropriate for your 40k investment. I myself changed my oil because I build engines and kind of get an idea breaking down engines, reading bearing wear, cylinder ring/wall wear, cylinder ridge, out of round, oil pump inspections, even tear down lifters.

Will NOT changing the original oil until the DIC tells you to harm your engine? Eventually..over time. The question should be, will not changing my oil harm my engine at 100k, 150k...Try it and find out..be honest. When your engine is at 100 or 150k, I challenge anyone to get a full oil analysis from Blackstone and lets compare. In fact, I will put my money where my mouth is...I have an oil sample from my 2900 mile oil change all boxed up and ready to go. As outlined, I broke her in HARD. I wish to compare mine with yours and lets see what is what.

If you do not want to change your oil during break in and rely on the DIC, at LEAST change your filter to get all the sealants from the assembly and reduce the contaminants. The oil will still have plenty of life left. Just add 1/2 quart or so of oil lost.

[Michael_Js]

What does Nike say (or used to say)? JUST DO IT! Wow! What's the deal...I should have taken pictures of all the metal shavings in my oil at around 1200 miles when I changed it. To me it was WELL worth the change. it's SO simple and quick to do!!

Next one around 5K miles...or less...

Oh, I broke her in-between. Only hit 103-105 a couple times on the drive home from the dealer

[DarricSS]

Originally Posted by FNKNSTN

Ok? Do you wrap your lips around it and blow so you can feel how much the "metal shavings" impede the flow?

OK? I asked if you have ever “crossed-sectioned” an Oil Filter to inspect it.

You are outclassed on this subject as evident by your responses and refusal to acknowledge the obvious…a little common sense goes a long way.

But if you choose to continue on being a:




By all means that’s your right.