Twin Turbo kit

[AGP Turbo]

Originally Posted by 5.0KLLR

Ok so what setup would you suggest knowing my goals now? I would be content with 11-1200 to the wheels on a built 416 or 427. I wanna do all this once. Would you suggest going 57/57 turbos now and switching them out later down the road or buying the bigger ones from the get go? What about fuel system? I wanna run E85 and I only wanna have to mess with the fuel system once. So what pump setup and injector setup should I go with to achieve my end goal without having to replace them? I really appreciate the knowledge and help from you guys.

Because of the huge TQ you are going to make with a TT system, I would not recommend an aluminum block for the power you want. An iron 6.0 truck block, bored and stroked to 408 is a looong time standard, not crazy expensive way to have a power house short block. And you could just use you stock LS3 heads this way. A pair of ballbearing Garrett 6565’s will be just the ticket, and get you up around 1200whp anytime you want. Triple fuel pump. Whatever injectors your tuner has tuned before and likes.

6565 turbos are certainly too big for stock engine BUT if you’re switching to 408 within a year, then just go big first time.

[5.0KLLR]

Awesome thanks for the suggestion and info. Will be in contact to get a price of your kit with the triple pump fuel system.

[Scuzz]

Some of us have done these builds. And all I can say is get your pocket book out. You'll be spending 15-20 on engine, 10 on trans, 5-10 on cooling, 10 on turbos, plus 5-10 on misc. Then add in suspension changes etc for another 5.

With that being said 6565 got me 1345rwhp 1200~ish rwtq on 22.9lbs of boost. Through a 4L80 auto.

[bayarea408]

LOL! the boost rabbit hole is a DEEP one

[Punisher_ATX]

Id say for over 12-1300 an off the shelf single or twin kit is not going to get you there. No offense to AGP their kit is great for daily driven street cars and mile cars. But when you start trying to reach the 1500+hp goals a custom big single kit trumps all.

[ttshovel]

Originally Posted by Scuzz

Some of us have done these builds. And all I can say is get your pocket book out. You'll be spending 15-20 on engine, 10 on trans, 5-10 on cooling, 10 on turbos, plus 5-10 on misc. Then add in suspension changes etc for another 5.

With that being said 6565 got me 1345rwhp 1200~ish rwtq on 22.9lbs of boost. Through a 4L80 auto.

I kinda agree with this. It doesn't take an exotic motor to make that kinda power nowadays. No need for that kinda cost. I mean if you're paying a shop, then 100% those numbers are pretty spot on.

Just a cookie cutter dart shp shortblock and off the shelf tfs/prc heads can be had for under 10k and be reliable at that power point

[racesloth]

Originally Posted by ttshovel

Just a cookie cutter dart shp shortblock and off the shelf tfs/prc heads can be had for under 10k and be reliable at that power point

The engine doesn't have to be exotic like a $7000 top end kit... You can gain a lot by drilling a dart shp for 1/2" head studs and open your heads to 1/2" too - don't need 6 bolt heads... I think the 4.125 bore and stock 3.622 stroke for 388 makes a sweet turbo combo with out breaking the bank. It is the other supporting pieces that get expensive very fast.

But as has been mentioned many times before, the higher you go the less fun it becomes to drive and the maintenance goes way up....

I think eLSthree is building a great combo that will still be a ton of fun to drive and live well into the future. A decent bit of cash can be gleaned back selling an unhurt LS3 short block to offset the cost. The way eLSthree was going he was on borrowed time. As Ted said "dancing on land mines."

I wonder about this:

On a centri FI car the belt of the supercharger induces a side-load on the crank. At higher HP levels and a cogged belt this can beat up the bearings.

Given that an LS2/LS3 crank is cast, yet stout wouldn't it be better in a solid platform like an LY6 or a Dart SHP over the standard offshore basic forged crank? The reason I say this is that the cast crank will be able to flex somewhat more than the forged crank due to the side-load - at least at the 1000 - 1100 hp range.

[ttshovel]

Originally Posted by racesloth

The engine doesn't have to be exotic like a $7000 top end kit... You can gain a lot by drilling a dart shp for 1/2" head studs and open your heads to 1/2" too - don't need 6 bolt heads... I think the 4.125 bore and stock 3.622 stroke for 388 makes a sweet turbo combo with out breaking the bank. It is the other supporting pieces that get expensive very fast.

But as has been mentioned many times before, the higher you go the less fun it becomes to drive and the maintenance goes way up....

I think eLSthree is building a great combo that will still be a ton of fun to drive and live well into the future. A decent bit of cash can be gleaned back selling an unhurt LS3 short block to offset the cost. The way eLSthree was going he was on borrowed time. As Ted said "dancing on land mines."

I wonder about this:

On a centri FI car the belt of the supercharger induces a side-load on the crank. At higher HP levels and a cogged belt this can beat up the bearings.

Given that an LS2/LS3 crank is cast, yet stout wouldn't it be better in a solid platform like an LY6 or a Dart SHP over the standard offshore basic forged crank? The reason I say this is that the cast crank will be able to flex somewhat more than the forged crank due to the side-load - at least at the 1000 - 1100 hp range.

I was saying a complete motor for under 10k. But I agree, making the switch to methanol right now and 16 injectors. Its definitely taking all resemblance of a street car out of it.

[racesloth]

Originally Posted by ttshovel

I was saying a complete motor for under 10k. But I agree, making the switch to methanol right now and 16 injectors. Its definitely taking all resemblance of a street car out of it.

But... it will haul the mail

[AGP Turbo]

Originally Posted by racesloth

Given that an LS2/LS3 crank is cast, yet stout wouldn't it be better in a solid platform like an LY6 or a Dart SHP over the standard offshore basic forged crank? The reason I say this is that the cast crank will be able to flex somewhat more than the forged crank due to the side-load - at least at the 1000 - 1100 hp range.

I've personally bent stock cranks and have had numerous customers do so too, over the years. ANY forged crank is better. And don't think about the limits in HP, think in TQ. TQ is what's going to find the limits of bottom end parts.

[jeff657756]

Anything over 1200whp and i would start building on another platform. Not a 5th gen.

[racesloth]

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

I've personally bent stock cranks and have had numerous customers do so too, over the years. ANY forged crank is better. And don't think about the limits in HP, think in TQ. TQ is what's going to find the limits of bottom end parts.

That's why I asked... good to know...

[racesloth]

Originally Posted by AGP Turbo

I've personally bent stock cranks and have had numerous customers do so too, over the years. ANY forged crank is better. And don't think about the limits in HP, think in TQ. TQ is what's going to find the limits of bottom end parts.

That's why I asked... good to know...

[5.0KLLR]

Originally Posted by jeff657756

Anything over 1200whp and i would start building on another platform. Not a 5th gen.

Why?