Won"t go in reverse, lock out issue

[mikes red 2015]

I have with a replaced the clutch with a Monster twin disk, and a MGW short throw shifter. Project went well. car shifts great. it went in reverse a bunch of times on the lift. Went for a ride today, backed off lift, backed out of barn, backed down drive. went for a 30 mile ride. when i got back it would not go in reverse. put back on lift. checked wires on sensors, unpluged reverse lock out. i have power at the plug with key on 11.7 volts, 14.7 volts with engine running. removed solenoid and bench tested. it activated and deactivated. pluged it in to the plug with key on and engine running with clutch in and out and it would not work. any help with this would very much appreciated. Thanks Mike

[Black_SS10]

Do you have the reverse light and lockout solenoid pigtails backwards? They look the similar and can plug into either one.

[mikes red 2015]

Originally Posted by Black_SS10

Do you have the reverse light and lockout solenoid pigtails backwards? They look the similar and can plug into either one.

No, i dont think so. It did work fine for awhile. Any other info?

[mikes red 2015]

Anyone else have any helpful hints on what to try?

[mikes red 2015]

If the plug has 12 volts, shouldn't the solenoid retrack? It will retrack if i do it with a battery but not if it is hooked to the car. Any thoughts?

[gtstorey]

Check grounds and wiring. It might be able to see voltage but not be making enough contact somewhere along the way to carry the small amount amperage needed to engage the solenoid. I don't know if this is relayed through the BCM/ECM but the fact that you are only seeing 11.7 volts would indicate that it's not making good connection somewhere, unless you battery is dead. Or unless it's fed through the BCM/ECM and that is knocking the voltage down.

[mikes red 2015]

i has 14.7 at plug when car is running

[gtstorey]

It still could be a wring issue. It doesn't take but a small amount of current to measure no load voltage.
It would be interesting to compare voltage at the battery or alternator to the voltage at the relay both while running and off. If there is a difference it would be a strong indication of a wiring/ground issue but if it's the same it doesn't eliminate it.

[mikes red 2015]

i had 12.3 at battery when i tested, when i tested at the plug with just key on at 11.7 all the lights come on so i figured thats why there was a drop in voltage at the plug. the rest of thing are bit beyond my expertese.

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by mikes red 2015

i had 12.3 at battery when i tested, when i tested at the plug with just key on at 11.7 all the lights come on so i figured thats why there was a drop in voltage at the plug. the rest of thing are bit beyond my expertese.

Yes to make the comparison mean something, the loads would need to be the same.

My comments are based upon experience with other relays/solenoids (usually on tractors or mowers) that would work when plugged directly to a battery but not in place. In those cases it is either a corroded/loose ground, damaged wire or bad solenoid and sometimes all three adding up to cause a problem.

[mikes red 2015]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

Yes to make the comparison mean something, the loads would need to be the same.

My comments are based upon experience with other relays/solenoids (usually on tractors or mowers) that would work when plugged directly to a battery but not in place. In those cases it is either a corroded/loose ground, damaged wire or bad solenoid and sometimes all three adding up to cause a problem.

Thank you for all the help.

[gtstorey]

Originally Posted by mikes red 2015

Thank you for all the help.

My previous post was to point out that that I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams for our cars to see whether there might be something going on totally different from my suggestions. It's possible that the relay works on a switch that might be grounding it or a module might control the ground vs the hot side. Maybe someone that has quick access to the wiring diagrams can weigh in on that.

[mikes red 2015]

Originally Posted by gtstorey

My previous post was to point out that that I haven't looked at the wiring diagrams for our cars to see whether there might be something going on totally different from my suggestions. It's possible that the relay works on a switch that might be grounding it or a module might control the ground vs the hot side. Maybe someone that has quick access to the wiring diagrams can weigh in on that.

I will look for some wiring diagrams, Thank you

[eLeSthree]

Check post #4 for a diagram that might help.

It seems the Clutch Position Sensor and Vehicle Speed sensor's input are used by the ECM to allow entry into the reverse gate. Are you throwing any codes?

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=416557