Water pump question - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

stevieturbo · 07-14-2021, 05:44 PM

If you're overheating after every pull, and seeing air introduced into the cooling system...sounds like a head gasket issue.

The rad itself isn't blocked either in terms of water or airflow ?

Are you sure the system is bled properly with no airlocks, or stat stuck etc ?

Is it actually bypassing the cap and ejecting coolant ? Can you monitor/log cooling system pressure ? Or do a sniffer test to see if there are any combustion by-products in the cooling system ?

fz4k98 · 07-14-2021, 08:55 PM

You mention that after burping the system it is fine. You should jot down exactly what the conditions and amount of time is to narrow it down.

If after a 5 second pull and it is overheating, does it come back to normal while lightly driving it or only after "burping it"?

Are you burping it hot? Does it release a lot of air when burping?

Better isolating the event detail can help you visualize it.

I would start with the radiator cap and as the easiest and cheapest to look into. The purpose of the radiator cap is to control expansion and contraction from heat. A long pull may be putting you into low or high pressure situation.

SoChrisB · 07-14-2021, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevieturbo

If you're overheating after every pull, and seeing air introduced into the cooling system...sounds like a head gasket issue.

The rad itself isn't blocked either in terms of water or airflow ?

Are you sure the system is bled properly with no airlocks, or stat stuck etc ?

Is it actually bypassing the cap and ejecting coolant ? Can you monitor/log cooling system pressure ? Or do a sniffer test to see if there are any combustion by-products in the cooling system ?

Rad is not blocked. Even put in mishimoto rad. Have bled the system properly. Even done gravity vs vacuum and have Even let motor run for an hour w cap open too. Replaced gaskets and studs too. Monitored cooling on log too. It's fine throughout and then 10 seconds after a run it jumps open almost immediately.

SoChrisB · 07-14-2021, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fz4k98

You mention that after burping the system it is fine. You should jot down exactly what the conditions and amount of time is to narrow it down.

If after a 5 second pull and it is overheating, does it come back to normal while lightly driving it or only after "burping it"?

Are you burping it hot? Does it release a lot of air when burping?

Better isolating the event detail can help you visualize it.

I would start with the radiator cap and as the easiest and cheapest to look into. The purpose of the radiator cap is to control expansion and contraction from heat. A long pull may be putting you into low or high pressure situation.

See above. Replaced radiator and cap. It will come back to normal but if it's not burped it will need to be before next run or overheats. I burp hot and it releases a lot of gasses. Appreciate all the help everyone!

fz4k98 · 07-15-2021, 09:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SoChrisB

Rad is not blocked. Even put in mishimoto rad. Have bled the system properly. Even done gravity vs vacuum and have Even let motor run for an hour w cap open too. Replaced gaskets and studs too. Monitored cooling on log too. It's fine throughout and then 10 seconds after a run it jumps open almost immediately.

The information here says it is fine throughout and 10 seconds after a run it jumps open almost immediately. What is jumping open?

Are you doing an engine runnning cooldown to normal temp or shutting it down because it is hot?

I notice a 20 to 30 degree rise on my temp after a run depending on the day and watch the temp on the return to get it back close to normal.

When burping hot, does fluid come out or just gas?

SoChrisB · 07-16-2021, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fz4k98

The information here says it is fine throughout and 10 seconds after a run it jumps open almost immediately. What is jumping open?

Are you doing an engine runnning cooldown to normal temp or shutting it down because it is hot?

I notice a 20 to 30 degree rise on my temp after a run depending on the day and watch the temp on the return to get it back close to normal.

When burping hot, does fluid come out or just gas?

i'm sorry that was an autocorrect typo! I meant to say the temp jumps up, 10 seconds after the pull/run.

It depends on how high it is really. If i catch it early i can hold some revs and get it to drop. if not, i shut it down and let the fans run.

When I burg it it's just gas, no fluid.

larry_g · 07-16-2021, 02:56 PM

Almost sounds more like a head gasket issue than water pump cavitation. I doubt you'd be lifting the heads at 13PSI unless something else is wrong. Just a couple of thoughts because it only happens under extreme conditions.

SoChrisB · 07-16-2021, 02:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by larry_g

Almost sounds more like a head gasket issue than water pump cavitation. I doubt you'd be lifting the heads at 13PSI unless something else is wrong. Just a couple of thoughts because it only happens under extreme conditions.

I thought so too. replaced the heads, and new gaskets and studs.

stevieturbo · 07-16-2021, 03:07 PM

replacing the HG etc without testing seems a bit OTT

The water pumps are not an issue, unless perhaps yours is not an original GM part and some cheap copy ?

SoChrisB · 07-17-2021, 10:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevieturbo

replacing the HG etc without testing seems a bit OTT

The water pumps are not an issue, unless perhaps yours is not an original GM part and some cheap copy ?

Likely so, but I've been chasing this for 1.5 years. Now I'm just throwing money at it because it's ridiculous. Factory water pump.

stevieturbo · 07-17-2021, 10:36 AM

Have you had a competent tuner look at it and the overall layout ? past or present, even for another fresh set of eyes.

And as I said, log cooling system pressure.

Excess air in the system cannot magically appear, and is often a sign of some sort of leak from the combustion chamber. First steps there would be a sniffer test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system header.

Either that, or there was an airlock or some other area of the system compromised due to improper install or layout.

Obviously a remote diagnosis is extremely difficult when you cannot see or do tests.

07-16-2021, 02:56 PM	#21
larry_g Drives: 2014 1SS/1LE Join Date: Nov 2015 Location: Louisville, KY Posts: 886	Almost sounds more like a head gasket issue than water pump cavitation. I doubt you'd be lifting the heads at 13PSI unless something else is wrong. Just a couple of thoughts because it only happens under extreme conditions. __________________ 830 WHP 700 WTQ, Whipple 2.9 @ 13lbs Boost, Flex Fuel Tune by Blevins Tuning, LSA SBE, 3.5 GripTec, ATI LS3 Damper, AFR 260cc Mongoose, ARP Studs, Yella Terra Ultralites, Johnson 2110R, BTR PDS Stage 3, Melling 10355, Improved Racing Baffle, ID1050X, DSX Triple Fuel Pump, RotoFab CAI, NW 103mm TB, Stainless Works 1-7/8" LTH to 3" Speed Eng w/ X-pipe to NPP, Powermaster 9509 XS, Detroit Speed Motor Mounts, MGW, Monster LT1-S, ZL1 Calipers, DBA Rotors & Pads, Bilstein B6 Struts & Shocks, BMR 1.25" Drop Springs & Adj Rear Bar, Pegasus Solid Bushings, Z/28 Wheels, other misc parts.

07-14-2021, 05:44 PM	#15
stevieturbo Drives: it changes Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1,128	If you're overheating after every pull, and seeing air introduced into the cooling system...sounds like a head gasket issue. The rad itself isn't blocked either in terms of water or airflow ? Are you sure the system is bled properly with no airlocks, or stat stuck etc ? Is it actually bypassing the cap and ejecting coolant ? Can you monitor/log cooling system pressure ? Or do a sniffer test to see if there are any combustion by-products in the cooling system ?

07-14-2021, 08:55 PM	#16
fz4k98 Drives: 2013 1ss Join Date: Jul 2012 Location: WI. Posts: 569	You mention that after burping the system it is fine. You should jot down exactly what the conditions and amount of time is to narrow it down. If after a 5 second pull and it is overheating, does it come back to normal while lightly driving it or only after "burping it"? Are you burping it hot? Does it release a lot of air when burping? Better isolating the event detail can help you visualize it. I would start with the radiator cap and as the easiest and cheapest to look into. The purpose of the radiator cap is to control expansion and contraction from heat. A long pull may be putting you into low or high pressure situation.

07-16-2021, 03:07 PM	#23
stevieturbo Drives: it changes Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1,128	replacing the HG etc without testing seems a bit OTT The water pumps are not an issue, unless perhaps yours is not an original GM part and some cheap copy ?

07-17-2021, 10:36 AM	#25
stevieturbo Drives: it changes Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Norn Iron Posts: 1,128	Have you had a competent tuner look at it and the overall layout ? past or present, even for another fresh set of eyes. And as I said, log cooling system pressure. Excess air in the system cannot magically appear, and is often a sign of some sort of leak from the combustion chamber. First steps there would be a sniffer test for hydrocarbons in the cooling system header. Either that, or there was an airlock or some other area of the system compromised due to improper install or layout. Obviously a remote diagnosis is extremely difficult when you cannot see or do tests.