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Old 02-11-2022, 06:17 PM   #1
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Help: Wideband 12V power source?

I have an LFX, but figured this applies to V8s too.

I'm installing an AEM 30-0334 and wanted to verify where to fuse tap for power. I was originally thinking F17 or F18 using the in cabin driver's side fuse box which is what AEM used in their example video on Youtube, but have a concern if anyone can help me with this.

I've read that damage to a wideband sensor can potentially occur if the key is on and the engine is off for an extended period of time which can supposedly cause thermal shock when you go to start the car with the recommendation to tap into a 12V source that is only powered when the engine is running to prevent this.

I don't see such a source on the in cabin fuse box, but somone on the forums here says there exists such a source in the engine fuse box.

Is this enough of a concern that I need to run a power wire all the way to the engine fuse box?

I occasionally run my radio with the engine off so I don't want to damage a sensor if this is a real issue. If it is, I'm wondering why AEM demonstrated fuse tapping off a key on source that is still powered if the engine is not running.
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Old 02-12-2022, 06:40 AM   #2
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I tapped into the power feed for the cigarette lighter/power source in front of the shifter for mine since I couldn't find a switched terminal in the cabin fuse box.
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Old 02-12-2022, 12:58 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Ashen 6.2 View Post
I tapped into the power feed for the cigarette lighter/power source in front of the shifter for mine since I couldn't find a switched terminal in the cabin fuse box.
Seems to be a common place to tap into. Have you had to replace your sensor? How long ago was your install?
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Old 02-12-2022, 07:59 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by simon777 View Post
Seems to be a common place to tap into. Have you had to replace your sensor? How long ago was your install?
I haven’t needed to replace it. It’s been about 8 months or so now since I put it in.
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Old 02-13-2022, 12:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ashen 6.2 View Post
I tapped into the power feed for the cigarette lighter/power source in front of the shifter for mine since I couldn't find a switched terminal in the cabin fuse box.

do you recall where under the console the power is that goes back to the lighter? driver side, center, etc.? color of wire? thanks.
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Old 02-13-2022, 01:34 PM   #6
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do you recall where under the console the power is that goes back to the lighter? driver side, center, etc.? color of wire? thanks.
If you want to tap into the lighter wire, installing an add on fuse at the driver's side fuse box on fuse 17 or 18 which go out to the cigarette lighters would be an easier install and accomplish the same thing:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438848

I can't remember the wire color, but if no one is able to tell you the color, you can pop up the bezel and check the wire from the underside.
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Old 02-13-2022, 01:42 PM   #7
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I haven’t needed to replace it. It’s been about 8 months or so now since I put it in.
Good to know, thanks. I'm assuming you've probably had the radio running with the engine off at some point?

I'm leaning towards adding the power wire to the switched fuse 18 in the cabin fuse box unless someone convinces me otherwise from their experience.

If anyone else has anything to add, let me know as this will help anyone in the future that installs a wideband.

I'll report back if my sensor dies earlier than expected. I plan to sometimes run the radio with the engine off so we'll see if that does anything. The sensor is installed about 14" out from the start of the downpipe, ARH w/ high flow cats, and is a permanent install.
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Old 02-14-2022, 04:39 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon777 View Post
Good to know, thanks. I'm assuming you've probably had the radio running with the engine off at some point?

I'm leaning towards adding the power wire to the switched fuse 18 in the cabin fuse box unless someone convinces me otherwise from their experience.

If anyone else has anything to add, let me know as this will help anyone in the future that installs a wideband.

I'll report back if my sensor dies earlier than expected. I plan to sometimes run the radio with the engine off so we'll see if that does anything. The sensor is installed about 14" out from the start of the downpipe, ARH w/ high flow cats, and is a permanent install.
Installed an add-a-fuse to the F17 or F18 location, can't remember. They get their power from the RAP relay that powers off after about 11 minutes when the ignition switch is turned off. Or immediately when the door is open and the ignition switch is off. I also installed a switch double pole/double throw, center off. This was because my wideband could capture retain the highest afr, depending on how it was wired. But fuel cutoff skewed the retained value. So a switch could be installed to keep the sensor from heating. Although not convenient, especially if installed on a customer's car and not your own.
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Old 02-15-2022, 04:13 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simon777 View Post
If you want to tap into the lighter wire, installing an add on fuse at the driver's side fuse box on fuse 17 or 18 which go out to the cigarette lighters would be an easier install and accomplish the same thing:

https://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=438848

I can't remember the wire color, but if no one is able to tell you the color, you can pop up the bezel and check the wire from the underside.

Thank you !!!!!!!
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:09 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Badbubba View Post
Installed an add-a-fuse to the F17 or F18 location, can't remember. They get their power from the RAP relay that powers off after about 11 minutes when the ignition switch is turned off. Or immediately when the door is open and the ignition switch is off. I also installed a switch double pole/double throw, center off. This was because my wideband could capture retain the highest afr, depending on how it was wired. But fuel cutoff skewed the retained value. So a switch could be installed to keep the sensor from heating. Although not convenient, especially if installed on a customer's car and not your own.
Thanks for that info. I ended up using F17 and not using a switch for convenience. It seems like some cars that were having issues didn't have their wideband installed in the right location so I'm guessing that was the source for their broken wideband. I'm hoping I won't have any issues with the wideband bung welded into the right spot as recommended by AEM. I'll let everyone know if I do.

On Camaro6, JannettyRacing had this to say:

"This is a problem I have known about for many years. I learned the hard way on my dyno back on 2003 and my sensors are 450.00 each with no warranty for water shock.

I was turning on my Wide band before starting the car, the O2 Sensor quickly heats to 1500 Plus degrees condensation would build in the pipes during warm up then when I did a dyno pull the condensation would shock and destroy the sensor.

Sensor location is big, the further back in the pipes the more chance of condensation build up before the sensor.

The further forward the sensor is the less chance of seeing any condensation.

1 minute time delay may not be long enough, that is why I suggested a switch, turn it on after the car is fully warmed up and you will never fail another sensor due to condensation."

Someone installed a time delay into their wideband because of this potential issue, but also had one of their sensors in the rear O2 bung.
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Old 02-17-2022, 01:15 PM   #11
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Thank you !!!!!!!
No problem. Good luck.

If you plan on taking up F17 and F18 with other add ons in the future, these fuse extenders helped me as the area is too tight to fit two add on fuses without them:

https://www.amazon.com/Holder-Connec.../dp/B07CTRNYR1

Also, you need mini fuse add ons, not micro. Had to return micro add ons I bought. I wish they didn't name them so similarly...
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Old 02-17-2022, 07:23 PM   #12
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Another great help!!! Thanks again Simon!!!!
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Old 02-18-2022, 06:32 AM   #13
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I can't recall which, but I know I also used F17 or F18, and have had the same sensor for a few years now. As soon as you open the drivers door, the power goes out.

While I dont see your specific AEM part number listed, most sensors run around this price to replace. Its not a huge deal.

https://www.amazon.com/17025-Compati...75937029&psc=1

Good to know they can get damaged if the engine isnt running and its powered up though. Hasn't happened yet...
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