Blend Door Fixed!

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by camguynj

You would think the foam covering would provide a better seal against the heater and evap cores than just the plastic blend door? Could you tell if the aluminum door was flat on both sides or did it have the pattern grooves on the evap core side and just the raised humps on the heater core side?

It seemed flat, unlike the plastic door with patterned grooves. I'm thinking I reversed the relative hot/cold positions of the door and the temp dial. A battery disconnect seemed to correct 'most' of the errors. It probably needs a scan tool calibrate. I'll get motivated next summer!

Another possible long-term concern is the foam dry rotting over time. Hopefully not.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

It seemed flat, unlike the plastic door with patterned grooves. I'm thinking I reversed the relative hot/cold positions of the door and the temp dial. A battery disconnect seemed to correct 'most' of the errors. It probably needs a scan tool calibrate. I'll get motivated next summer!

Another possible long-term concern is the foam dry rotting over time. Hopefully not.

Attachment 1141915

I had same thoughts about the foam sealant. I found this info from the vendor about their door and sealant https://www.blenddoorusa.com/pages/why-us

Still wonder why eom door has the groves on the evap side? Maybe for support (yea how’s that working out) just like the groves on the bottom of the intake manifold which is also hard plastic.

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by camguynj

I had same thoughts about the foam sealant. I found this info from the vendor about their door and sealant https://www.blenddoorusa.com/pages/why-us

Still wonder why eom door has the groves on the evap side? Maybe for support (yea how’s that working out) just like the groves on the bottom of the intake manifold which is also hard plastic.

Well, that's good to know about the foam being synthetic. Thanks.

[Whoomba]

I’ve made it 10 years (2014 vert), about to sell it and the now it fails. Is there an arm or something that I can see moving to check and make sure it’s the door and not something else?

[Moto-Mojo]

Originally Posted by Whoomba

I’ve made it 10 years (2014 vert), about to sell it and the now it fails. Is there an arm or something that I can see moving to check and make sure it’s the door and not something else?

I believe one of the videos posted either here or on YouTube on the subject shows a guy putting a bore scope in a hole where some sort of sensor went. I think it's the "737 Mechanic" guy. Not certain.

It's towards to beginning of the video. He confirms it needs a new door. Good luck, man. It was no fun!

EDIT: About 1 minute in - https://youtu.be/4CmSZka0RUs?si=h2Nr6sYQDfoOZUbN

[el ess A]

I ordered two flapper doors from Rockauto.com for about 13 bucks each. Genuine GM Junk. But it's still a replacement door I know for sure should fit it. Not currently having any issues with the blend doors on either car, but have a new one on hand for each because as soon as they break, with my luck, the GM doors will be discontinued.

[Whoomba]

Originally Posted by el ess A

I ordered two flapper doors from Rockauto.com for about 13 bucks each. Genuine GM Junk. But it's still a replacement door I know for sure should fit it. Not currently having any issues with the blend doors on either car, but have a new one on hand for each because as soon as they break, with my luck, the GM doors will be discontinued.

Thanks for the heads up. It’s OEM but it’s cheaper. One observation, it looks like the actuator moves 90 degrees but the flap only goes about 75. That what the other guys are talking about and why it breaks?

[Jeff_SS]

I finally got around to climbing under the dash and checking my blend door. When I removed the blend door motor, the blend door seemed to still be all in one piece and I could turn it (to actuate it) with my hand no problem.
With the actuator motor removed and the car running I ran it from warm to cold and watched the actuator motor function as it should slowly spinning the piece that engages with the blend door.
When the car is running, I could manually (by hand) actuate the blend door and sure enough the air would blow cold, when I'd let go of the blend door and let it drop, the air returned to warm.

Test driving it to the parts store and back, with the air on the coldest setting, it still is inconsistent and will fluctuate from ambient air to cold back to ambient etc.

I spent $50 on a can of the r134a refill refrigerant thing from auto zone and attempted to recharge the system, but it had plenty of refrigerant and the needle pointed to the red saying something else was an issue.

Maybe a line is clogged? I guess my only next choice is to take it to an A/C repair shop here in the Scottsdale area and try to have them diagnose the issue.
Through process of elimination I cannot think what else could be an issue other than maybe a clogged line in the system or something?

[1DK23]

Thank you! I had the same issue with my 2012 Camaro RS. its freezing in these Indiana winters

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by Moto-Mojo

It seemed flat, unlike the plastic door with patterned grooves. I'm thinking I reversed the relative hot/cold positions of the door and the temp dial. A battery disconnect seemed to correct 'most' of the errors. It probably needs a scan tool calibrate. I'll get motivated next summer!

Another possible long-term concern is the foam dry rotting over time. Hopefully not.

Attachment 1141915

I hope the foam doesn't dry rot. I had my blend door replaced at the dealership back during the summer earlier this year with the new aluminum blend door put in place. My old blend door was completely intact and looks good as new for a 2010 which has never been replaced. Had the job done along with a heater core at the same time for safety measures because my Evaporator crapped out and was leaking freon.

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by camguynj

I had same thoughts about the foam sealant. I found this info from the vendor about their door and sealant https://www.blenddoorusa.com/pages/why-us

Still wonder why eom door has the groves on the evap side? Maybe for support (yea how’s that working out) just like the groves on the bottom of the intake manifold which is also hard plastic.

I forgot about this! I feel better already!

[SummitWhite11]

Originally Posted by 1DK23

Thank you! I had the same issue with my 2012 Camaro RS. its freezing in these Indiana winters

Did you get it corrected yet?

[Brainwurks]

The fix worked for me last weekend. Was dreading cutting into my car for months. I tired the Winans hot knife from Amazon, but it was garbage construction. Instead I used an existing soldering iron used for leaded glass. It was a bit overkill and the makeshift aluminum x-acto knife insert started to get all bendy from the heat.
Suffice to say it’s done. And I used aluminum duck tape to seal it so I didn’t have to wait for RTX to cure.

[camguynj]

Originally Posted by Brainwurks

The fix worked for me last weekend. Was dreading cutting into my car for months. I tired the Winans hot knife from Amazon, but it was garbage construction. Instead I used an existing soldering iron used for leaded glass. It was a bit overkill and the makeshift aluminum x-acto knife insert started to get all bendy from the heat.
Suffice to say it’s done. And I used aluminum duck tape to seal it so I didn’t have to wait for RTX to cure.

Congrats! Smart & ezer to use the aluminum tape. Which replacement blend door did you use and did you have to recalibrate the actuator?