Excessive bounce with Eibach?

[Droid6]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

You used Pedders factory sspecs

Front
Camber -1.25
Toe - OUT .1

Rear
Camber - 1/2 the Front
Toe - Zero

I vaguely understand what camber and toe are. What do the settings achieve? Are these settings universal for all 2010 Camaro alignments or are these special for racing or something?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by lexlueger

Yes, and loving it

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Edlocs

Thanks for the post. Now to find a good quality alignment shop....

Make sure you tell them up front you expect the alignment to be tight with the numbers being matched side to side. Tell them you want a print out of the before and after. be prepared to bay more because a typical 'in the green range alignment' is easy to achieve in a small amount of time. A green range alignment meets factory specifications which for an enthusiast are way to broad. A Pedders quality alignment will cost between $100 to $150 dollars or two to three times the $49.99 green range alignment. It is all based on shop and tech time. In this case you'll pretty much get exactly what you pay for.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by shevyman

i am going to be negative.

i had a set of eibachs for my other car and i find out they like to sag after so many miles. so i went from a 1 1/2 inch drop to like 2 1/2 inch. so what i would say is maybe a bad set of springs. which also i dont think i have heard of but hey it could happen right.

There are two ways to make an automobile coil. You can wind it cold or you can wind it hot. Most motorsports coils are wound cold. The wire is special alloy and narrow in diameter. This is effective for motorsports coils. Street coils are different alloy and for OEM and Pedders generally wound hot. The wire diameter is larger and hot winding allows the coil to be wound with greater precision even though the wire diameter is larger.

You can talk to a lot of coil experts. If you speak to an engineer that believes in hot winding, you will be convinced that hot wind is the best solution. The same would be true of a cold wind believer. Pedders coilver coils (special motorsport alloy) are cold wound. Our Sports Ryder lowering coils (larger diameter wire) are hot wound.

[shevyman]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

There are two ways to make an automobile coil. You can wind it cold or you can wind it hot. Most motorsports coils are wound cold. The wire is special alloy and narrow in diameter. This is effective for motorsports coils. Street coils are different alloy and for OEM and Pedders generally wound hot. The wire diameter is larger and hot winding allows the coil to be wound with greater precision even though the wire diameter is larger.

You can talk to a lot of coil experts. If you speak to an engineer that believes in hot winding, you will be convinced that hot wind is the best solution. The same would be true of a cold wind believer. Pedders coilver coils (special motorsport alloy) are cold wound. Our Sports Ryder lowering coils (larger diameter wire) are hot wound.

ok call me dumb but..... are you telling me that my set up was wound hot so that could have caused them to sagg? sorry if i am not getting the point. i know nothing specific about springs and coils. i know with the right set up you can get better handling performance and different ride comfort and same goes with coil overs. but with a more stiff ride and way better handling then just springs. soo yeah thats what i know. lol

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by shevyman

ok call me dumb but..... are you telling me that my set up was wound hot so that could have caused them to sagg? sorry if i am not getting the point. i know nothing specific about springs and coils. i know with the right set up you can get better handling performance and different ride comfort and same goes with coil overs. but with a more stiff ride and way better handling then just springs. soo yeah thats what i know. lol

To the best of my knowledge all Eibach coils are cold wound. This is my opinion and others in the industry would have different opinions, cold would coils in larger diameter wire tend to sag more quickly than hot wound coils. Fully scragging a coil, fully compressing it, to set height delivers a more durable coil as long as it is not fully compressed once on the car. That is why uncut bumpstops are so important. They prevent the coil from being repeatedly scragged on the car leading to premature fatigue. Once again this is Pedders philosophy and there are different schools of thought on this within the industry.

Pedders is very particular about our coils and hold strong opinions on the best way to make them. I did not enter this thread to say a single bad word or imply that another brand is not as good as Pedders. I entered this thread because no one was providing the OP the support they needed. I am trying to be as fair and balanced as I possibly can while answering questions openly and directly. May I suggest we start another thread where the discussion is not limited by forum protocol?

[shevyman]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

To the best of my knowledge all Eibach coils are cold wound. This is my opinion and others in the industry would have different opinions, cold would coils in larger diameter wire tend to sag more quickly than hot wound coils. Fully scragging a coil, fully compressing it, to set height delivers a more durable coil as long as it is not fully compressed once on the car. That is why uncut bumpstops are so important. They prevent the coil from being repeatedly scragged on the car leading to premature fatigue. Once again this is Pedders philosophy and there are different schools of thought on this within the industry.

Pedders is very particular about our coils and hold strong opinions on the best way to make them. I did not enter this thread to say a single bad word or imply that another brand is not as good as Pedders. I entered this thread because no one was providing the OP the support they needed. I am trying to be as fair and balanced as I possibly can while answering questions openly and directly. May I suggest we start another thread where the discussion is not limited by forum protocol?

well thank you for the info. new to me, well after my springs sagged and yeah drove like that till i had money to buy new i replaced my socks with koni and vogtland springs. so far so good.

[Droid6]

Originally Posted by shevyman

well thank you for the info. new to me, well after my springs sagged and yeah drove like that till i had money to buy new i replaced my socks with koni and vogtland springs. so far so good.

Maybe you should start to clarify in your post that you have never owned Eibach's for a Camaro.

[shevyman]

Originally Posted by Droid6

Maybe you should start to clarify in your post that you have never owned Eibach's for a Camaro.

you know maybe i should have. but i to think he was just giving me an answer on how the springs are made and what causes it.

eibach springs i believe are made the same for honda,gm,ford,toyota. so really i do not think they will make them different or better for any other car brand. i was just explaining my issue with eibach and i never said they sucked i claimed maybe a bad set if that is possible

[DON_RAFA]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

You used Pedders factory sspecs

Front
Camber -1.25
Toe - OUT .1

Rear
Camber - 1/2 the Front
Toe - Zero

Are these specs the same for a v6 with Eibachs?

Not to jack the thread but after the springs were installed I did not notice much difference in ride height compared to stock Camaros and Eibach equiped Camaros. I did notice a difference in the stiffness though. I havent gotten an alignment done yet.

[MiSTER]

Originally Posted by lexlueger

YES!! I took it on a 60 mile run. No more bounce! Rear end feels planted. I tried to break it loose , no dice.
I think after my cam, I'm going full bush kit ... I know where my suspension mod money is going from now on.

Did you end up cutting the bump stops or did you leave them stock height?

[4xchamp]

I installed my Eibach pro kit yesterday and experienced the bouncy feeling .
This morning I asked my tech if he loosened ALL the suspension pivot points before loading the suspension and tightening . He indicated he did not , so this morning we loosened everything , mounted the wheel stands for easy access , bounced the car several times then torqued it all up .
Day and night difference , now the suspension is great . This procedure is important on any suspension work , even on most stock part replacements depending on how they mount .

[qberry]

I have the same issue Lexluger described. I just got my car, it has eibach loweing kit by 1" with Pedders rear subframe bushings, BMR trailing arms, and BMR toe rods.
Today I had 4 people in the car, the two in the back seat hit their heads on the roof everytime I ran over a nickel sized pebble in the road. I haven't noticed it being bouncy when by myself though, but i have noticed an unruly lateral movement in the rear end when getting on it at all.

[Droid6]

Did the alignment guys "set the bushings" like is recommended in this thread?

Originally Posted by qberry

I have the same issue Lexluger described. I just got my car, it has eibach loweing kit by 1" with Pedders rear subframe bushings, BMR trailing arms, and BMR toe rods.
Today I had 4 people in the car, the two in the back seat hit their heads on the roof everytime I ran over a nickel sized pebble in the road. I haven't noticed it being bouncy when by myself though, but i have noticed an unruly lateral movement in the rear end when getting on it at all.