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#15 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Black SS Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: NY
Posts: 150
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Thank you guys very much I cannot wait till Friday. I will post pics, Thanks again for the help.
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#16 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 32
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Oil changes
It seems the one thing everyone agrees on here is the fact that you should change your oil every 500 miles for the first 1500 miles. 8 quarts of mobile one is not a cheap undertaking. What oil are you all using. When I built race cars decades ago I always used none detergent oil for the first 500 miles. Then switched to a strait 40 W Castrol. Granted this is not a race engine so the strait 40 W is out, but I hope there is a less expensive synthetic oil that is more popular then model one
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#17 |
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I used the same info motorhed is advising. I took it easy for the first 1000 miles then changed the oil and used AC Delco filter and Mobile 1 5W-30. After that, I introduced myself to high RPMs
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#18 |
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Wonderfully Awful Idea
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Drive like you stole it..from your ex-wife!!! change oil soon. Clay bar to get all the CRAP out of the paint then the best wax, 2 coats, by hand. You don't want spider webbing. Buy the best gas! You don't want the dripps from your tail pipe.
__________________
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#19 | |
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SoCal Camaro5 Race Team
Drives: 2021 Shadow Grey Camaro 2SS 1LE Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: SO CAL
Posts: 14,367
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Quote:
As far as breakin I just drove my V6 normal per the book, didn't baby it but didn't abuse it either,nomal driving I guess and nothing above 4000 rpm. All of this more for the brakes and trans to run in properly. I changed oil at 2500 miles and have 6200 now and car runs great and eats no oil.
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#20 |
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#21 |
![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: VA
Posts: 32
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Sweet Good luck with that black paint. They do look good
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#22 | |
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So It'll Go Down Easy
Drives: Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Long Beach, CA
Posts: 852
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Quote:
![]() read your manual. |
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#23 |
![]() Drives: 2011 Camaro LT Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 575
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How bad is it really to downshift before 500 miles? I've actually been doing it on occasion..it really can't be helped with a manual car. I can't go lugging around my neighborhood in 3rd or 4th gear at 10-15 mph lol. I've also lugged the engine bad once, but I doubt one time is going to do any damage at all.
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#24 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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You can downshift. The manual just talks about avoiding a downshift that would cause a real high RPM. It also mentions avoiding real high RPM when accelerating. So it's more of an RPM thing, than down shifting.
They want parts to be broken in a bit before seeing max loads and temps. Which 99.9% of the time will be just fine. But, being mass produced, just in case you get one with something on the real tight side like a valve to guide clearance being tight... they want that to break in before seeing high RPM hard use. I saw a brand new car once when I was a tech come in on a flat bed with the engine locked up. Customers comments were that it stalled while breaking it in on the highway. It had 50 miles on it. Several of the valves showed metal transfer from the guides. The engine was green new with real tight valves, and when numbnuts decided to redline it on the highway it stuck a couple valves. If that same engine had been given just a little normal driving before holding it wide open, it probably would have been just fine. Just my opinion, but on a new car, just drive normal for a couple hundred miles. After that, let it rip. Downshifting is part of normal driving, screaming it to redline is not. |
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