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Old 01-19-2011, 01:02 AM   #1
jeprox
 
Drives: camaro 2LT/RS
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 73
Question MULTIPLE ISSUES: METRA, HUD, USB and 9-SPEAKER SYSTEM

First of all, im new to this forum. I have read a lot regarding the issues that I have in question but I could'nt find the BEST answer.

I am planning to buy a CAMARO 2011 2LT this spring. I am planning to upgrade my audio system to pioneer AVIC Z130bt and the speakers to JL audio with subs. My issues are:

1. Which is better? METRA dash kit or SCOSCHE kit? does it keep all steering wheel and a/c functionality as it says? I know the Scosche kit is not available ill late FEB

2. If i change my audio system, will it affect the HUD feature?

3. Does the USB in the handrest console still functions if i change my system?

4. I have read a few issues regarding the center speaker that is located in the dash which i couldn't even remember.

CAN SOMEONE HELP ME OUT??? you dont have to answer all the questions but 1 or 2 would help
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:04 AM   #2
jeprox
 
Drives: camaro 2LT/RS
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Bronx, NY
Posts: 73
also, the reason I'm getting a 2LT bec. a v8 is too much to for me specially driving here in NYC. second is that it has the HUD ..
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Old 02-08-2011, 05:11 PM   #3
icetre
 
Drives: Arctic Silver 2011 Camaro 2SS
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Newcastle, WA
Posts: 65
Brooklyn expat here. Myrtle and Marcy Beeeeotch... I be livin' with Ashy Larry.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeprox View Post
1. Which is better? METRA dash kit or SCOSCHE kit? does it keep all steering wheel and a/c functionality as it says? I know the Scosche kit is not available ill late FEB

I haven't seen Scosche yet. But I'm pretty excited from the pix I've seen. I might upgrade it, if only to get the plastic, as I might very well be rolling my own carputer with ac controls.

I *hate* metra's kit. The look is alright, and I like the little touches they did, but there's a couple of issues I have with it.

A. Backlighting on the buttons is dark blue, and it clashes. Yeah I can grab a rework station and go about replacing the led's but is it really that much more expensive to get RGB like they did in the LCD?

B. Configuration of the buttons is bad. There's little separation, so chances of operating it competently while keeping your eyes on the road is nil. My girlfriend swears she can't figure it out. Honestly I can't blame her too much. It's kinda confusing to the eyes, not to mention ugly.

C. Buttons are rubber, and they needed to work on tolerances a bit. They stick sometimes. It's not a big deal, it's usually just the edge or corner of the button stuck under the lip of the hole, but it's a ding in the fit and finish.

I'm really just not into it. It takes too long to change the temp, and a good portion of the time, I can't seem to ever get it blowing just right. Too much fan, not enough. Too hot, too cold.... Never just right.

D. Ground loop with an amp, and little instruction on how to get the center channel working with onstar. Guys really? I mean seriously? Why didn't you provide a amp'd output so we don't have to keep the stock amp and send the onstar audio signals to the trunk? The center channel speaker is inches away. Do I really have to roll my own, or keep a 5lb boat anchor so I can hear ding.. ding.. ding...

The ground loop, I can't seem to totally track down to them, but here's a hint of why I list it here and ding them for it. If I hit my dash, as if I were the Fonz, the alternator whine STOPS. This is with a shielded monster 6 wire amp RCA patch going to the trunk. If it were the amp, I'm pretty sure it wouldn't stop if I hit my dash. Furthermore it's in all channels including the sub. While it's possible it's the HU, I somehow doubt it. Since if I turn off the channels they still sit there with whine.

I assume, there's some noisy electronics around there that even though the cable is shielded it's picking up. Or it's leaking noise somewhere else, remote turnon, etc. Last time I went after it, I re-ran a discrete remote turnon wire and a discrete ground to the trunk.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jeprox View Post

2. If i change my audio system, will it affect the HUD feature?
No! HUD works with a hole in the dash. I can tell you though, that Onstar delete doesn't work like it did in 2010. Still working on that one, might be a carputer function.

On another note, of course since Kenwood, etc haven't looked at adding CAN to their units, you will lose the stereo display on the hud and dash, but honestly, who cares. Besides, I'm hoping to hack me in some val1 display in the hud anyways, or possibly replace the hud with a custom rolled one based of lasers..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeprox View Post
3. Does the USB in the handrest console still functions if i change my system?
If you ever so gracefully RIP THE SHIT out of the GM connector, you'll find it's a standard female mini-b usb connector. In the glove is a standard USB-b female through bulkhead.

The connector is like this:
http://www.usbfirewire.com/Parts/ima...10171mbbig.jpg

Plug an extra long usb cable, and route it back to the HU under the center console. Works great and you can't tell. Might want to consider some JB Weld or something to make sure your cable doesn't come back out of the bulkhead though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeprox View Post
4. I have read a few issues regarding the center speaker that is located in the dash which i couldn't even remember.
The center speaker is if your replacing the amp. IE direct RCA's to the headunit. You wire onstar and factory alert (ding) to it since onstar has no way of injecting audio into a closed system.


I wouldn't discount the v8 in nyc. Honestly I find even in LA traffic, that the more low end tq and power I have the faster I can move, and the better I can zip through traffic. However, in NYC I can't do that as easily as the driving styles amongst drivers tend not to differ as wildly as in CA where I now live.

Might I suggest escape? I assure you, you'll miss NYC whenever you're watching a movie based there, but my heart sings every freeway onramp that I run at WOT. Try WOT with the v6 at the Kent Ave entrance, or Camden Plaza by the Brooklyn Bridge.

(for those that don't know, the entrances in NYC on the BQE are suicidally short. Camden is one of the worst I've seen anywhere, as it's about 500 feet and cloverleaf. Your wheel is cranked all the way pretty much and you can only do about 20 maybe 25. When you get to the top? There's a short straightaway of about 50 feet for you to get your ass up to the insane speeds the rest of the city is doing on there. Yeah,give 'er a shot. You could get lucky!)

In all honesty I suspect the added power would actually be beneficial, as you can match traffic speeds faster which leads to more opportunity to turn, etc that if you were driving a PT Cruiser wouldn't be there.

That being said, let me warn you now: This thing can be a bitch to Parallel. There are forward and rearward blind spots that make it really a chore. Consider cameras on both the front and the back. Hope you got a good body guy. I have problems seeing over the cowl, and have had significant issue with the right front because of it. There's just things I can't seem to see, no matter how I look. Entering the Fry's here in SD is hard because of it. It's pitched up 15-20 deg and a 75 deg hook right. I have a hard time seeing the opposing lane as well as the curbs.
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