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Old 02-24-2011, 01:57 PM   #57
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I sure hope this cam is big enough to keep me happy.... No school zones where I live...
Well then you're in a better position than me. My D.I.C. says my average speed is 32mph Thank God I get a short straightaway that I can get up to 80mph......but only for a few seconds
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Old 02-24-2011, 02:05 PM   #58
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I asked him specifically about that cam... here's the response..

"That cam uses LSL lobes which make good power but are really noisy. You will get a lot of sewing machine sounds coming from under the hood. I prefer to use a mix of lobes for equal power but with a lot less noise. Also, there is absolutely no reason to run a 243 lobe on an engine that's only going to see a 6500 rpm red line."
Yeah that sounds right. If you know Pat G's work, his cams never advertise high duration numbers. He is known for making cams with very good driveability and decent power.

Different companies (and people) have different ways of spec'ing cams.

I think you have narrowed it down to some really good choices, and you can't go wrong either way.
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:40 AM   #59
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I sure hope this cam is big enough to keep me happy.... No school zones where I live...
lol....yea mlee, been watching this thread and cant wait for your feeback on the cam you decide to go with. might have to start one like this for the ls3 using the stock heads. checking into all the shops here in the southeast on their cams and also thinking custom. very interesting thread here...
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Old 02-25-2011, 07:46 PM   #60
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Had a little chat w/ my tuner... and I realized I mis-understood Pat G. on the size of intake valves... He was referencing all L92 Heads, not specifically MY heads. My valves are exactly the same size as stock... just one piece stainless Manley valves.

So he still wants me to run the 2nd custom grind. From my studies...the high exhaust duration is for top end high rpm...

The Gurerra cam is a safe bet... but I'm thinking I want something a bit bigger so I added a comp cam to the list that has a wide power band and better mid range torque than the custom ones.
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Old 02-26-2011, 09:41 AM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mlee View Post
Had a little chat w/ my tuner... and I realized I mis-understood Pat G. on the size of intake valves... He was referencing all L92 Heads, not specifically MY heads. My valves are exactly the same size as stock... just one piece stainless Manley valves.

So he still wants me to run the 2nd custom grind. From my studies...the high exhaust duration is for top end high rpm...

The Gurerra cam is a safe bet... but I'm thinking I want something a bit bigger so I added a comp cam to the list that has a wide power band and better mid range torque than the custom ones.
be careful on PTV... manley valves eat up .060-.100 depending on where they are sunk to during the VJ process... so basically, alot of cams that clear by a good bit with stock valves, will not have enough PTV since you changed valves...
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Old 02-26-2011, 10:08 AM   #62
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be careful on PTV... manley valves eat up .060-.100 depending on where they are sunk to during the VJ process... so basically, alot of cams that clear by a good bit with stock valves, will not have enough PTV since you changed valves...
Good info... That's exactly what I'm battling right now... I would like to keep a .08 clearance and my tuner says he can check it since I'm driving him crazy making sure it's right.

I'm starting to think why swap heads if it limits my cam...
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:03 PM   #63
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what are the details on your heads?

if they are milled any, pretty much any 23x camshaft, you will probably have to flycut.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:07 PM   #64
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what are the details on your heads?

if they are milled any, pretty much any 23x camshaft, you will probably have to flycut.
I posted the specs them in #25... Scoggin Dickey w/ manley valves. Not Milled... I'm headed out now to go over all this w/ my tuner...
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:11 PM   #65
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the post said you could get them unmilled, milled .012, or milled .030.... didnt know which route you went.

I would suggest getting them milled .030, and just plan on flycutting.

If I could do it over again on my car, I would of.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:15 PM   #66
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the post said you could get them unmilled, milled .012, or milled .030.... didnt know which route you went.

I would suggest getting them milled .030, and just plan on flycutting.

If I could do it over again on my car, I would of.
I'll bring that up with him too.

I just need to go forged and swap out pistons...
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:28 PM   #67
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I'll bring that up with him too.

I just need to go forged and swap out pistons...
that's a big step in the snow ball effect

swapping out pistons... might as well swap out rods, might as well swap out crank, etc etc etc..

your cam swap just went up 5k. lol.
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Old 02-26-2011, 12:39 PM   #68
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I had that happen to me this week... doing cam and stall... well we really should swap out the lifters and while we're at it, let's put in new head bolts... oh, let's upgrade the fuel injectors since the maggie has to come off the car to do the lifter anyway...



The fuel pump might be next, but we'll see how the stock pump with BAP does on they dyno and then decide.
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:18 PM   #69
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Yes... but I'll swap cams if I do. Going NOS for now...

Probably the main reason I'm NOT going w/ a blower is a want a big cam...

If you are trying to keep costs down don't go more than +100hp rating on spray. There are some that have found that the LS3 hyperuetectics have been less than tolerant to high levels.

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that's a big step in the snow ball effect

swapping out pistons... might as well swap out rods, might as well swap out crank, etc etc etc..

your cam swap just went up 5k. lol.
I agree to the sowball effect. It gains momentum easily. The more time my build takes the more I put into it.

As for cam swaps overall (this includes all cams as well as timing gears and chains), ALWAYS degree the cam and ALWAYS check the piston to valve clearance. The extra 15 minutes it takes is worth the peace of mind.
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Old 02-26-2011, 02:21 PM   #70
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If you are trying to keep costs down don't go more than +100hp rating on spray. There are some that have found that the LS3 hyperuetectics have been less than tolerant to high levels.



I agree to the sowball effect. It gains momentum easily. The more time my build takes the more I put into it.

As for cam swaps overall (this includes all cams as well as timing gears and chains), ALWAYS degree the cam and ALWAYS check the piston to valve clearance. The extra 15 minutes it takes is worth the peace of mind.
How the hell is it only 15 minutes to check PTV when doing a cam only swap?
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