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#29 | |||
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Booooosted.
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I'm gonna just zip tie mine this time. ![]() And if anyone has to have the swap done by a shop, it can cost a couple hundred all together. Maybe more. Quote:
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![]() Not if the new peice doesn't lip underneath the base of the braket. Because if it doesn't then it would do nothing to help hold the arm on. It would be nothing more than a big washer and slide off with the nut like mine did. I'm assuming it hooks under the base of the braket. In fact I gaurantee it. If not it's a stupid design. Why wouldn't it hook underneath? If the old hole elongated and it wasn't hooked, it would just elongate the stock hole and slide off with the nut. |
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#30 | |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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Ultimately control arm replacements are pretty cheap from your GM dealer, but why worry about ruining a race weekend if your car gives up on a Saturday evening session and you cant get a replacement? We are working on getting some pieces made and a cost assigned, and will share more details as they come available. Once again, we believe this will be a worthwhile and economical insurance policy for everyone from street users on stock bars to track users with higher rate rear bars. More details will be released as plans get finalized so please bear with us here. The development of this reinforcement was spurred on by direct input from Camaro5 users, so you folks will be the first to know the details of the product. Thanks everyone for your input! As always we appreciate what's going on within the Camaro community, and will continue to provide the community with proven engineering solutions in the future! |
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#31 |
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Drives: 2010 Camaro, 2006 Z06 Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: SLC, UT
Posts: 3,370
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Just to clarify, there will be no cutting or welding involved with installation. We do not feel it's necessary!
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#32 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Love the one you're with Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Downtown Charlie Brown
Posts: 11,849
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#33 |
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Psssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhh!
Drives: under contruction Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Marysville, Ohio
Posts: 12,996
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When do you anticipate having this ready? My car is in the shop right now having several Pfadt bushings added. I'd love to have these put in at the same time.
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#34 | ||
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Blessed
Drives: 2013 Sonic RS MT Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Saint Augustine FL
Posts: 28,441
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Quote:
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GTAHVIT = knucklehead Oh and I take back my comment on how the 3d image looks different than the oem one.... I looked at another image and stand corrected.
__________________
Click image to see build thread. PQ - "the love of cars. It's a boys first step toward manhood and a mans last hold on boyhood." Fbodfather - "We do not want to use the Z28 moniker on a car that does not deserve this hallowed name." The_Blur - "Let's not confuse competitors with equals." |
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#35 |
![]() Drives: 2010 2SS/RS L99 RJT/Black Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Mechanicsville, VA
Posts: 375
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#36 |
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NOW CAMMED & SUPERCHARGED
Drives: 2010 Camaro 2SS/RS Black w/ IOM Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Ar
Posts: 2,336
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I would
__________________
Livernois Motorsports: Maggie 2300 7psi, Livernois 2C cam/L99 to LS3 Conversion, Ported TB, Rotofab w/adm race scoop, adm trans cooler,Kooks headers no cats, Kooks 3" exhaust. METCO breather. Precision 2400 Vigilante TC. Eibach Lowering Springs & Swaybars. BMR Trailing arms, BMR Rear Cradle Bushings, BMR Toe Rods, BMR Differential bushings. Vossen CV3 20's w/ 305 Mickey Thompson @25psi. Zl1 front bumper. OE Zl1 Hood and matte black insert. 556RWHP/500RWTQ L99
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#37 |
![]() Drives: 2010 1SS ABM Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sacramento Ca.
Posts: 41
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It looks like it would work great. I'd probably get some.
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#38 |
![]() Drives: 2007 Shelby GT500 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Iowa
Posts: 319
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Im in!
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#39 |
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Booooosted.
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So please explain why this is like this. Terrible IMO..... must be a reason for it?
As it turns out, when the finish is worn away, there IS a joint here. Can’t imagine why but I confirmed it on both arms. The coating disguises it but it’s definitely there. THIS IS NOT A CRACK. It’s an absolutely PERFECT joint. WAY to perfectly straight and true to be a crack. |
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#40 |
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Search Ninja
Drives: 2010 Black 2SS/RS A6 Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Central Ark
Posts: 7,183
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No offense but it seems like a lot of extra cost and complexity to fix a relatively simple problem. My "simple" mind tells me that a single flat plate that hooks into the open area on each side should be more than enough to handle the added pressure. It's not like you have to design something that takes all the stress off, just add to the strength of the OEM part. The fatigued area is above the bolt so strengthening that area is all we REALLY need to worry about. Moving the stress to both sides of the OEM plate should infintely make the part stronger. It would also make manufacturing and installation a breeze. It would also cut down on seemingly unneeded weight, since this is going to have to be made from hardened steel or something equally heavy. I could be way off base here but it doesn't look that complicated to me.
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2010 Black 2SS/RS A6
Halltech CF 102 fed GPI modded intake manifold Bo (knows) White ported TB Kooks LT's/ Dynomax VT Pfadted (springs/sways) Dyno tuned by Rhino and GPI I once parallel parked a train. |
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#41 |
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Casey Woodside
Drives: a very fun car Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Tn
Posts: 1,906
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what about the light wieght control arm you are making?
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#42 |
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2013 & 1989 Camaro
Drives: 2013 Camaro 2SS Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Houston
Posts: 45
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from the 2nd picture, it seems to me that there are still some stresses along the circle of the original piece, im just curious to see what the stresses are from the back side of the original part. also, there has to be some sort of stress put onto that area of the new plate, correct?
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