Has anyone broke one of these yet? (Rear Lower Control Arm Endlink Tab)

[PQ]

Originally Posted by Camaro21

I checked mine today when I was swapping out the rear tires to put on my DR's and Mine are fine!! I will keep an eye on them though..

Originally Posted by JusticePete

I do believe that 'tab' is the missing portion of the tab. If PQ can chuck the ball in a vice we could see exactly what remains. Huggerorange73 is on the right track with his post. There is another possibility as well. With the damage to the endlink and the arm it is possible there was more than just a loose endlink nut. I am thinking that some odd combination of coil compression with the geometry of the arm, sway bar and endlink resulted in a point of contact, a bind causing the dual failure. The ball joint could also have been separated after the failure, but once loose??? There are almost endless possibilities.

Here is what I do KNOW.

1. The ZETA II Chassis TEAM built a great product.
2. From the day we started on the ZETA and then ZETA II Pedders range we knew that an over size bar had to be carefully mounted to prevent tab failure.
3. Back-plating with hardened washers distributes the load and they are available right now.
4. The mounting point for the ZL1 bar is further out toward the knuckle. This means it will operate more efficiently than the current arm. Put another way, the ZL1 Pedders rear bar will be smaller.

Speculation...

My guess is the ZL1 arms will fit an SS as an off the shelf from GM solution.

PQ,

If you still have the ball joint and failed arm. Let me know as I would like to have it for a failure analysis.

I'll send it to you. Same address as the new arm came from?

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

Wheel hop???

It would need to be violent, but possible.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

It would need to be violent, but possible.

I may have done that. lol

[GTAHVIT]

Originally Posted by PQ

I may have done that. lol

dude, I'd think you'd know if you wailed on it bad enough to do all that damage... it would have been LOUD.

[PQ]

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

dude, I'd think you'd know if you wailed on it bad enough to do all that damage... it would have been LOUD.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=127648

[Darth_Emma]

Look in the encyclopedia under "violent" and you'll see this picture.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Darth_Emma

Look in the encyclopedia under "violent" and you'll see this picture.

[Mr Twisty]

PQ, which wheel vibrated the worse???

(just what you wanna hear... the wheel did it)

[Ject]

Originally Posted by PfadtRacing

Hey everyone, there has recently been some discussion about the strength of the stock control arm, specifically where the sway bar mounts. We've seen damage ranging from cracking to full on failures from users and shops alike. Since we have access to OEM Cad files and Finite Element Analysis software, we decided to look into the situation this afternoon.

Finite Element Analysis is the process in which computer models of specific parts are mathematically scrutinized for potential points of failure, the analysis takes into account geometrical design, material thickness and strength. In the graphical representation of this data below, blue indicates areas of relatively low stress, yellow areas of medium stress, and red of potential failure points.



This is the OEM Sway bar attachment point for the 2010 Camaro 5. This piece is welded onto the OEM control arm and the hole is where your sway bar endlink stud is pushed through. As you can see, there are localized areas of high stress directly above the hole... this backs up the physical evidence we've seen lately of endlinks pulling through that mount and rendering that control arm useless.

As per our analysis, we've come to the conclusion that the amount of torque that is placed on the endlink stud will have a negligible effect on the structural integrity of the thin metal that the bracket was designed from. What extra torque will do is possibly keep the nut from backing off of the stud, but will not prevent the failure of the bracket it's self. The real issue is the material used in the OEM bracket, and the thickness of the steel in question.



Here is a prototype design of a reinforcement bracket that we will be testing shortly. The design is incredibly simple and will take about 5 minutes to install. We're considering manufacturing this piece if there is enough interest in the forum. This plate will solve the fundamental issue of the material being too thin, without the need to replace your endlinks because the stud is too short.

If anyone has questions or concerns please let us know. We strongly feel this solution is elegant, simple and will resolve issues surrounding the stock bracket.

You peaked my interest for sure! I have huge desire to get something a bit beefier then the OEM due to all the AutoX stuff I do.

I have already noticed some bending/wear on mine even though it is all tight. I even re-torqued the bolts with some blue loc-tite on them.
You peaked my interest for sure

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by MisterCamaro69

PQ, which wheel vibrated the worse???

(just what you wanna hear... the wheel did it)

the earth moved.

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by PQ

I'll send it to you. Same address as the new arm came from?

Pedders USA
9539 Lakeshore Drive
west Olive, MI 49460

[Mr Twisty]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

the earth moved.

Assuming he don't speed... 88 fps x 12 = 1056"

1056 / Tire Circumference (88"?) = 12 hz.

His little wheelquake turned that mount to mush

(hey, it's possible)

[PQ]

Originally Posted by JusticePete

Pedders USA
9539 Lakeshore Drive
west Olive, MI 49460

Got it. Ship Monday if that's cool?

And, do I need a press to get the bushings out of the trailing arms?

Originally Posted by MisterCamaro69

Assuming he don't speed... 88 fps x 12 = 1056"

1056 / Tire Circumference (88"?) = 12 hz.

His little wheelquake turned that mount to mush

(hey, it's possible)

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by PQ

Got it. Ship Monday if that's cool?

And, do I need a press to get the bushings out of the trailing arms?

Do you have a vice?