DRL Bulb Question

[Nojoy33]

Sounds like the AAC Plasma P13WS is the safer option with the built-in regulator. Does it come with a harness to run with the halo's, or is it just an option to replace the stock DRL's?

[mlee]

Originally Posted by Nojoy33

Sounds like the AAC Plasma P13WS is the safer option with the built-in regulator. Does it come with a harness to run with the halo's, or is it just an option to replace the stock DRL's?

Just replaces the stock DRLs... a separate harness is required to run halos all the time.

[Nojoy33]

Thanks Mlee! Now the search begins for both...plasma's and harness.

[The Stig]

It's really not so much a harness, it is just some wires and t-taps. You just tap into the side markers and that gets the DRLs to be on when the halos are on.

[Nojoy33]

Originally Posted by stieger

It's really not so much a harness, it is just some wires and t-taps. You just tap into the side markers and that gets the DRLs to be on when the halos are on.

Thanks Stieger. I just happen to be an aviation electronics tech. Sounds pretty simple and straight forward. Although I can't stand the standard store bought splices...I might have to "requisition" some better splice gear.

[The Stig]

Originally Posted by Nojoy33

Thanks Stieger. I just happen to be an aviation electronics tech. Sounds pretty simple and straight forward. Although I can't stand the standard store bought splices...I might have to "requisition" some better splice gear.

Hmm may we see pictures of this better splice gear? Because I personally am tired of quick connects and t-taps

[Nojoy33]

Originally Posted by stieger

Hmm may we see pictures of this better splice gear? Because I personally am tired of quick connects and t-taps

Absolutely. As soon as I get my hands on some. Best part about it is that it's "enviromentally sealed" equipment. As in no water, dirt or other debris that can cause corrosion gets into the splice. Far better than standard splices and heat shrink. You can go to raychem.com and get an idea what im talking about. All connections are soldered, in the same way as applying heat shrink, instead of pinching/crushing wires together. In the right hand pic, the center ring is the solder band. The two outer rings are the seals (kinda like hot glue) and the outer shell is semi-rigid heat shrink basically. All you do is insert the wires, make sure they overlap, and hit it with a heat gun until the solder band is completely melted (which solders all of the wires together) and sealant oozes from each end. The outer will shrink like normal heat shrink, but will be more rigid. Hope this was helpful.

[IBM/2SS/RS/LS3]

Originally Posted by Maro10SS

Where do you get these?

They're made by Whelen

[GB EB]

AAC's P13s match perfect.

Be sure to get 2 pair so when they go out after about 2-3 months you have replacements ready since you have to mail them back (at your expense) for warranty replacement.


the plasma's have a blue tint to them.... but, they last a little longer.

[Nojoy33]

Originally Posted by 2011 2SS/RS

AAC's P13s match perfect.

Be sure to get 2 pair so when they go out after about 2-3 months you have replacements ready since you have to mail them back (at your expense) for warranty replacement.


the plasma's have a blue tint to them.... but, they last a little longer.

Are you saying I'll have to replace bulbs every 6 months or so if I go with these?

[Nojoy33]

Has anyone pulled this off, or thought about it? The theory works (at least in my head). You retain your DRL's in auto mode and, due to the diodes, the DRL's will not supply power to the marker lights circuit. AND, you can run the DRL's with halo's in manual mode as it seems everyone is looking to do. A little tweaking of the schematic, which would involve a switch being installed somewhere, would give you full control of your DRL's. Sorry for the crappy pic, it wouldnt let me upload my original schematic and I'm not very good with Window's paint.

[STINGER BEE]

I like to purchase the DRLS and Harness but I am totally confused on what is the best match,wether to go plasma,since some members say they look more of a blue color or a white, like the OEM Halos. And some reports say they had issues with the fitting in the sockets.

[Snoman]

Originally Posted by STINGER BEE

I like to purchase the DRLS and Harness but I am totally confused on what is the best match,wether to go plasma,since some members say they look more of a blue color or a white, like the OEM Halos. And some reports say they had issues with the fitting in the sockets.

What exactly are you confused on, because all of this has been explained in detail down to the most minute instructions, except for how to pay with a credit card?

[STINGER BEE]

There is just a broad sense of opinions on the quality,matching,etc.I just don't want to purchase a product and have to modify the bulb to fit the sockets and get the best match,and not have bulbs being replaced every two or three months.
I understand where you are coming from,but I don't want to purchase something that's just not going to be sufficient.So you are pleased with the quality and reliability with the ones you have with yours.

Originally Posted by Snoman

What exactly are you confused on, because all of this has been explained in detail down to the most minute instructions, except for how to pay with a credit card?