My Camaro went home to Oshawa to die......

[Huggerorange73]

Originally Posted by GTAHVIT

Wow... you have certainly narrowed it down...

This is an awesome thread. Damn Hugger I know you'd much rather have your car running but the silver lining here is a lot of people are learning a ton of good information. Myself included.

Best of luck on whatever path you choose.

Like I said before....if this thread saves only 1 engine...I'll consider it a HUGE success.

We're all working together to figure out what happened....in the course of this a lot of great info is being put out there.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Her is the install for the cam, You need to go after the installer.

Thank you for choosing COMP Cams® products; we are proud to be your manufacturer of choice.
Please read this instruction booklet carefully before beginning installation and also take a moment to
review the included limited warranty information.
This instruction booklet is broken down into several categories for ease of use. Some of the topics may
not apply to every application, but all of the information will be very beneficial during the cam
installation process. For step-by-step visual detail, it is recommended to watch the COMP Cams®
DVD “The Proper Procedure to Install and Degree a Camshaft” (Part #190DVD). If you have any
questions or problems during the installation, please do not hesitate to contact the toll free CAM
HELP® line at 1-800-999-0853, 7am to 8pm CST Monday through Friday, 9am to 4pm CST Saturday.
Important: In order for your new COMP Cams® camshaft to be covered under any warranty,
you must use the recommended COMP Cams® lifters and valve springs. Failure to install new
COMP Cams® lifters and valve springs with your new cam can cause the lobes to wear
excessively and cause engine failure. If you have any questions about this application, please
contact our technical department immediately.

Camshaft Installation Procedure:

1. Prepare a clean work area and assemble the tools needed for the camshaft installation. It is
suggested to use an automotive manual to help determine which items must be removed from
the engine in order to expose the timing chain, lifters and camshaft. A good, complete
automotive manual will save time and frustration during the installation.

2. Once the camshaft, lifters, and timing chain are exposed, line up the timing marks on the timing
gears by rotating the crankshaft. This will position the #1 piston at top dead center (TDC). Next
remove the camshaft timing chain sprocket, the timing chain and the camshaft retaining plate if
equipped. Remove all lifters and reinstall the cam sprocket to serve as a handle. Slowly and
carefully “roll” the camshaft out of the engine. Note: Excessive force is not required to
remove a camshaft. If the camshaft does not come out easily, stop! Look for obstructions,
such as a fuel pump rod, distributor gear, etc. Do not force the camshaft; something is
holding it in the block.

3. Once the camshaft is removed, pull the bottom timing gear off of the crankshaft snout. In many
cases you will need a gear puller to remove the crank sprocket. It usually has an interference fit,
which may make it difficult to remove without the proper tool. Be careful not to damage the
threads in the end of the crankshaft.

4. Now is the time to inspect all of the old camshaft related components (timing chain set,
distributor gear, etc.) for abnormal or excessive wear. For example, using an excessively worn

distributor gear with a new camshaft could result in severe engine damage. On flat tappet cams,
it is critical that the old lifters be properly disposed of and new COMP Cams® lifters installed.
Your camshaft warranty will be voided if old flat tappet lifters are used. With roller cams, roller
lifters may be re-used. Inspect them thoroughly; look for any looseness in the wheels and
excessive wear on the lifter body.

5. Remove your new COMP Cams® camshaft from its packaging. Inspect all lobes and the
distributor gear, making sure the camshaft was not damaged in shipment. Next, compare the
stamped numbers on the end of the cam with the spec card to make sure this is the correct cam.
It is a good idea at this point to lightly wire brush the distributor gear with mineral spirits or an
equivalent solvent. Remember, during the installation process, the cleaner you make your new
components, the better chance you have of avoiding failure. Using COMP Cams® Cam &
Lifter Installation Lube (Part #103) supplied with your cam, coat all lobes and the distributor
gear. It is important to coat the lobes completely, yet not excessively. This same rule applies to
the distributor gear and fuel pump lobe. Coat the cam bearing journals with conventional SAE
30 or 40 wt. oil.

6. We recommend you install a new COMP Cams® timing chain and gear set for two very
important reasons. First, the old chain is likely to be stretched beyond its service limits. Second,
the factory timing set may be machined to retard cam timing. Either of these conditions will
detract from the performance that your COMP Cams® camshaft is designed to deliver.
Temporarily install the cam sprocket on the camshaft. The sprocket will again serve as a handle
to help “roll” the cam into its bearings. Carefully slide the camshaft into the engine, oiling the
bearing journals as it slides into the block. Excessive force is not necessary to install the cam.
Take your time. Be careful not to scar the cam or cam bearings and try not to wipe away any of
the assembly lube as the cam is installed. Once the cam is in, remove the cam sprocket. If the
engine is equipped with a camshaft retaining plate, it should be installed at this time. Refer to
the engine manual for the proper torque specifications for the retaining plate bolt.

7. Install the new crankshaft sprocket on the snout of the crank. It is recommended to use a
Crankshaft Timing Sprocket Installation Tool (Part #4789) for all applications that have an
interference fit crank sprocket. If the new camshaft being installed is a hydraulic or solid roller
lifter cam, now is the time to check camshaft endplay. For instructions on how to do so, see
“Checking Camshaft Endplay” section in this booklet. If the new camshaft being installed is a
hydraulic or solid flat tappet cam, this step is not necessary. Flat tappet cams have taper ground
into their lobes, which pushes the cam into the proper position and holds it there while the
engine is running. Checking endplay is also unnecessary in engines equipped with cam
retaining plates, whether the cam used is a flat tappet or roller.

8. Reinstall the cam sprocket temporarily. Check the timing mark alignment in your engine
manual. Rotate the crankshaft to its proper position. For instance, the Small Block Chevrolet
has a “dot over dot” alignment. Remove the camshaft sprocket and install the new COMP
Cams® timing chain. Next, bolt the cam sprocket to the camshaft. Make sure the sprocket is
pulled up flush onto the cam. Once again, be sure the timing marks are positioned properly and
according to the engine manual. Refer to your manual for the proper torque specifications
before tightening the camshaft bolt or bolts. COMP Cams® suggests that Loctite be applied to
the threads of the camshaft bolts to assure they remain torqued to the proper specification. This
process is very important! Warning: Improperly torqued camshaft bolts can loosen and
cause severe engine damage. A camshaft bolt locking plate (Part #4605) is recommended
for Chevy 262-400c.i. and 396-454c.i. engines.

Here is the link to all 12 pages.
http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

[Huggerorange73]

Originally Posted by 2SSRS

Her is the install for the cam, You need to go after the installer.



Here is the link to all 12 pages.
http://www.compcams.com/Instructions/Files/145.pdf

Stay tuned, this is going to be interesting...

[mikeSS]

Originally Posted by Huggerorange73

Stay tuned, this is going to be interesting...

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

:seesaw:

[Huggerorange73]

I'm thinking this may be split 50/50 tween Comp and the installer.....

Gotta talk to my lawyer on Monday on how to handle this.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by Huggerorange73

I'm thinking this may be split 50/50 tween Comp and the installer.....

Gotta talk to my lawyer on Monday on how to handle this.

+100%

[mikeSS]

Originally Posted by mikeSS

i think the problem is his cam setup+ shop. something there messed up.

.

this was my guess from day one. page 4. guess i might be right. but still a huge noob to this. going by most other threads about blown engines.

very interested to find out the end result, and what the shop will have to say.

[calbert1999]

Sorry, to hear about your engine blow, really sucks man.
I read through most of the thread; and then had to fast forward. Really, got tired of reading threads from butt-heads about losing warranty when mod'ing BS, staying stock, et al.
Seeing the pics; Damage to the engine is insane. But, seems like you found the cluprit, and from what I've read before as well it seems like the single pin CAM is not the way to go. I would have thought all the installers would know that, it was the first thing mine told me when I did my CAM last year. And, it's all over the threads (not to us single pin CAM).
I've hit rev limit a number of times since and never had an issue, however, I also upgraded to race rockers, lifters, springs, and rods when I did mine. Just seemed like the logical thing to do up front to avoid any issues later on especially when installing a blower. Also, my whole build started out with a plan based on my eventual goal to bolt on an SC. So, all the parts were specific to that goal.
Hope you get it sorted out with vendor and installer to get some kind of restitution for your re-build.

[SUX2BU]

Honestly, I doubt you will see a dime from Comp, but it's worth a try.

[IROCanSS]

Originally Posted by Huggerorange73

That is EXACTLY what my parts look like.......I think we've solved what happened to this engine.

Lucky for this guy, his car was at idle and the engine survived. Seems no matter what, Mike's car was on borrowed time. :( Mike, you always said, when you do something, you do it right! Blowing an engine in another country... that may be tough to beat!

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

Honestly, I doubt you will see a dime from Comp, but it's worth a try.

I tend to agree but you never know. I hope hes buddies with the shop owner and they can help out. When I got my gear refund, thats ultimatley what it took. The shop stepped in and I got a credit to the shop. I went with LT headers this time!

[SUX2BU]

Originally Posted by jrhaus76

Lucky for this guy, his car was at idle and the engine survived. Seems no matter what, Mike's car was on borrowed time. :( Mike, you always said, when you do something, you do it right! Blowing an engine in another country... that may be tough to beat!



I tend to agree but you never know. I hope hes buddies with the shop owner and they can help out. When I got my gear refund, thats ultimatley what it took. The shop stepped in and I got a credit to the shop. I went with LT headers this time!

Yeah, I have more faith in the shop helping out. Comp MIGHT (and that's a big might) replace the cam.

[2SSRS@Gen5diy]

Originally Posted by SUX2BU

Yeah, I have more faith in the shop helping out. Comp MIGHT (and that's a big might) replace the cam.

If i know comp they may send a new pin to install in the cam, But if you have a good Lawyer that can help.

[HufferSS]

Originally Posted by Huggerorange73

I'm thinking this may be split 50/50 tween Comp and the installer.....

Gotta talk to my lawyer on Monday on how to handle this.

Just a thought but why would you talk to a lawyer before you talk to the shop or to Comp?

I work for a large automotive related company and so of course occasionally we get the "I'll sue you" threat....which ends the conversation and gets handed to our lawyers. If a customer is reasonable and will explain their issue then I will talk to them.

Your call....just saying.