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Old 06-30-2011, 08:32 AM   #57
cmacclel
 
Drives: 2010 2SS
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KnightRiderSS View Post
hmmm...I will have to take mine off again and look at it to see if the nut closest to the block is removable....I looked at it during the install and it didn't look like it would...it looked like it was fixed to the bolt..my 2010 is a late model and has some 2011 parts on it....

if it is...hopefully I will have saved some people from


You can't remove the closest nut to the block. The factory bolt is a Hex head stud.

Mac
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Old 06-30-2011, 08:38 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmacclel View Post
You can't remove the closest nut to the block. The factory bolt is a Hex head stud.

Mac
This is what I was thinking. But Elite guys are saying the shaft should tighten up to the block...well with the ring terminal and harness stay still in place.

I was beginning to doubt what I saw on my own car, until I verified it last night.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:30 AM   #59
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Originally Posted by KnightRiderSS View Post
Does anyone know the part number for this bolt?

We will see what the other member's research into his failure turns up. Until then, here is a close up of mine:
That is a fatigue fracture surface for sure. The bottom half surface that has the swirlies is where the crack was growing with every wave of vibration.

I guess you wouldn't expect any other kind of fracture, due to the way the can is mounted on the end of an arm... in an engine bay that is constantly vibrating.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:17 PM   #60
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I recently installed the Heavy Duty Belt Tensioner for the Maggie that I purchased from East Texas Muscle Cars and had to find a solution for my Elite Engineering Catch Can. I went to Home Depot and bout a 5" long 5/16" Bolt and cut the extra spacer that came with the tensioner and remounted the catch can using one of the mounting holes for the tensioner. (Note: I couldn't find any Grade 8 Bolts, so I put a nut on the backside of the new bracket for the tensioner for stability. I will replace once I can find one.)

Here are a few pics.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:36 PM   #61
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^^^I don't even see the stud in question.
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:47 PM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmacclel View Post
You can't remove the closest nut to the block. The factory bolt is a Hex head stud.

Mac
So, is this right? Can anyone confirm?
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Old 06-30-2011, 01:55 PM   #63
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So, is this right? Can anyone confirm?
I was hoping one of the Elite guys would be back in. When I zoomed in on the picture in post 10 it sure looks like one solid piece to me.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:12 PM   #64
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^^^I don't even see the stud in question.
I can't use the Stud in Question to mount the catch can with this new Tensioner (would be in the way), but had to remove the extension from the Stud and find an alternate solution to mount the catch can.
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Old 06-30-2011, 02:16 PM   #65
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So, is this right? Can anyone confirm?
This is correct, the stud had the nut Made onto it.. Originally there is 1 removable nut, the other is part of the stud.
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Old 06-30-2011, 05:02 PM   #66
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Mine has the double nuts on it to. so when i installed the catch can rod i only removed the one nut becuase the hex head nut is a forged piece along with the bolt/stud. Ithink that GM must have changed the design of the bolt some time in production and went from the single threaded nut like shown on the elite web site install instructions to the foged bolt/stud with a double nut design. Any way I want to thank Steve and everyone at elite engineering for a great product and the personal service during my problems. Edit: Iam going to xray the hex head bolt/stud tomorrow at work to make sure it is a forged piece. I tried with everything i could today when i got home to try and remove the hex head nut from the stud since mine was broke and i couldnt get it to move.

Last edited by Godon Hutchinson; 06-30-2011 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:05 PM   #67
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Stopped by the dealership today to buy a replacement bolt it is part number:11609977 I will see if the part is different from the stock bolt and post pictures when it comes in. Thanks Steve from Elite Engineering for your help!
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Old 06-30-2011, 11:27 PM   #68
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anyone have the part number of the nut we removed during install? I want to relocate the can, but lost that nut.

edit: nevermind, found it...
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Last edited by Heliwrench; 06-30-2011 at 11:58 PM.
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Old 07-01-2011, 12:31 PM   #69
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Dude that sux, I was thinking of ordering another catch can.
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Old 07-01-2011, 01:03 PM   #70
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Just to add. My car is a May 2010 build and has the double nut or nut and hex nut stud as earlier pictured.
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