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[Jason@JacFab]

The dealer told there was a new TSB that came out in June, had something do to with somehow moving the master cylinder back, therefore changing the range on the clutch pedal and relearning the clutch pedal position sensor.

They elected not to do this on my car... Didn't want to do anything, until the local Dealer head Mechanic recommended to changed the fluid, and after that they got the problem to happen in the work bay...

Now they are changing the clutch slave/throw out, the flexplate, and the clutch disk... I found it funny that when I gave them the new part numbers they said they did not exist. But they've had the car a week today, I called them to check the status, and they said it was funny the new part numbers that I have them ended up being what they got. So according to the tech the new numbers seen on this thread that I wrote down and took to them are what the original OEM numbers have been superseded to... I should have my car back Monday.

[Jason@JacFab]

Well got my car back... There was "uneven wear" and about 40% of the fingers on the flexplate were bent (warped), and hot spots on the flywheel, and flexplate. So GM decided to put a new clutch disc, the revised flex plate, new slave & throw out bearing, pilot bushing, and flywheel.

Clutch feels nothing like it used to. I don't know if that's good or bad yet though. I had my Dad drive it, and he says that it feels like it should have in the first place now, and before it felt like an old worn out piece of crap you'd find in some old car. Before the clutch would start to engage about 3-4" off the floor, now it starts to engage about an 1" off the floor. Is this normal? I'll take it easy for a while and let it break in then see how it feels.

[ckaram]

My 2011 has about 1400 miles on it and engages pretty early. An inch or so sounds about right.

[Pollock]

I am taking my car into the dealer this week. with 900 miles the peddle stuck to the floor and I smoked my clutch.

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by Pollock

I am taking my car into the dealer this week. with 900 miles the peddle stuck to the floor and I smoked my clutch.

With that low of miles I would almost guess that the clutch isn't even broken in yet or seated. I didn't stop getting new burnt clutch smell for almost 3000 miles before i even started to think about beating on the car... Then again if your problem happened under light driving conditions you may have a problem.

Im thinking most of the 2011 cars could already have the new clutch parts as the old gm part number has been superseded with the new part number found several times in this thread... At least that's what I was led to believe?

[MidlifecriSS]

I have her back with the "adjusted pedal" from the TSB...it feels like it did when I bought it, but we will see if it was a temp fix. Has anyone else installed the Lingenfelter clutch spring?? GQ4life said it fixed it, but for $90...I am looking for some extra confidence to drop that much on a damn spring to attach to the pedal?

[Jason@JacFab]

Originally Posted by MidlifecriSS

I have her back with the "adjusted pedal" from the TSB...it feels like it did when I bought it, but we will see if it was a temp fix. Has anyone else installed the Lingenfelter clutch spring?? GQ4life said it fixed it, but for $90...I am looking for some extra confidence to drop that much on a damn spring to attach to the pedal?

Currently working on making my own. Wish I could figure out what kind of load, or spring the LPE spring was, but I sat down and thought about what I felt I would be comfortable with pushing with my foot. I got my spring and "noise dampening sleeve" today. Just waiting for the bracket to come back from the Waterjet cutter and put it on the car.

[Pollock]

The spring is a band aid. You need a new clutch actuator and while your at is put in a ZR1 clutch. I am going this route when I get the money saved.

[justa25thTA]

Originally Posted by Pollock

The spring is a band aid. You need a new clutch actuator and while your at is put in a ZR1 clutch. I am going this route when I get the money saved.

maybe, but if it works, who cares? the question is if it works. if so, $90 is cheap enough.

[calbert1999]

What do you folks think about this product?
Seems rock solid to me, and they aren't just a reseller like many of the other re-branded products. RAM is actually one of the leaders in the industry that "manufacturers" their products.
I'm looking into the RTrack 10.5 with 900 Series discs and a steel flywheel. This setup should hold about 1300hp. which will exceed tolerances at my highest TQ / HP capacity. And, they have customizeable options to reduce chatter of course with a trade off (less noise = less capacity).
I'm already at 680 - 740rwhp. (depending which pulley I use), and I have plans to forge / stroke the engine next year so expecting TQ / HP to increase somewhat.

Wondering why I'm not seeing or hearing about more setups with this brand, are they more expensive than others?

http://www.ramclutches.com/Specialty...eet_dual_2.htm

[MidlifecriSS]

Big thanks to Pollock!! This took me about an hour and I have been driving hard for about a week now...no problems!! Going to the track Wednesday and I will update!

You might want to give this a read

http://www.rangeracceleration.com/Clutch_Care.html

My clutch feels better after I changed the fluid. I made it 900 miles before my first issue. I might do this every 600 miles or so. Pretty easy to do. I used a syringe with a small hose on the end.

[OUTATIME]

Can anyone comment on whether or not the dealer fix alone fixed the problem? The one I'm referring to is the new TSB for adjusting the master cylinder.

[Matt@Tick]

Worth a quick read: http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=158655

[SummoneR]

Same thing happened to me recently too... a better clutch won't help the issue is not just the clutch disc etc... it's a reservoir etc. issue.