Pfadt Trailing Arm Install Help

[Agent WD-40]

So I am preparing to install my Pfadt rear trailing arms but I had a few questions before I start.

1) Pfadt has two sets of instructions on their website: one with their special tool and one set without. The only difference appears to be pulling the stock bushing out of the rear spindle. From what I have read of prior installs this bushing removal is the most difficult step. Is it even worth doing? Is it easy enough to do with the correct tool?

Here is the special tool (I don't see it for sale anywhere though): A1201

2) Is the lower control arm difficult to bolt back into position once you unbolt the rear shock and rear spindle from it? I'm worried it might be a pain to get everything back together once it comes apart.

3) Are the new Pfadt replacement bushings difficult to install? I assume not, but figure I would ask.

Overall the install looks fairly straightforward, I'm just hoping to not get stuck in the middle wishing I would have paid somebody else to do it.

[The_Stache]

Just did my trailing arms (and tie rods) this weekend. I ran into the same issue, removing the bushing from the upright.

The best options I can recommend is to get a puller/Pusher from autozone/checker/oreily/napa. it makes the job 900% easier.

here is an example - 3 arm puller
I paid $34.99 for it and its a great tool to have around, i think you can get one on loan too if you don't want to buy it.

Edit - to answer your other questions.

2 - its not bad, but if you use the puller you don't have to unbolt the upright from the lower arm. If you don't unbolt it then just use a jack to get the bottom end of the trailing arm bolt holes to match up with the upright bushing.

3 - The replacement bushings come in 2 pieces and are snug but easily installed by hand. I used my brake caliper vise to push the aluminum inserts into the bushings just to speed things up but I did the first few by hand.

[Nomad]

Originally Posted by The_Stache

Just did my trailing arms (and tie rods) this weekend. I ran into the same issue, removing the bushing from the upright.

The best options I can recommend is to get a puller/Pusher from autozone/checker/oreily/napa. it makes the job 900% easier.

here is an example - 3 arm puller
I paid $34.99 for it and its a great tool to have around, i think you can get one on loan too if you don't want to buy it.

Edit - to answer your other questions.

2 - its not bad, but if you use the puller you don't have to unbolt the upright from the lower arm. If you don't unbolt it then just use a jack to get the bottom end of the trailing arm bolt holes to match up with the upright bushing.

3 - The replacement bushings come in 2 pieces and are snug but easily installed by hand. I used my brake caliper vise to push the aluminum inserts into the bushings just to speed things up but I did the first few by hand.

+1 for the gear puller. I tried making up the special tool but ended up scraping it and borrowing a puller from Autozone for free. Only problem was that someone who borrowed it before me bent the screw so I had to straighten it out prior to using it. Worked great.

It's fairly easy to get everything back together. Make sure you follow the directions from Pfadt. I tried doing it in a different order (because I thought I was really smart). Had to take it all back apart and follow the instructions.

Bushing press in easily.

Good luck.

[Agent WD-40]

Originally Posted by The_Stache

2 - its not bad, but if you use the puller you don't have to unbolt the upright from the lower arm. If you don't unbolt it then just use a jack to get the bottom end of the trailing arm bolt holes to match up with the upright bushing.

Thanks for the tips on the puller. Is there room to get the puller on the upright with the lower arm attached? I can't see why they would recommend you pull the lower control arm off if you don't need to...

[ITGuy11]

Another vote for the gear puller. Try to get a 2 arm puller instead of a 3 arm puller, it makes the job easier. Also, don't forget to trim the face of the stock bushings with a razor blade before using the puller.

[Agent WD-40]

Any particular puller size that works best? Sounds like that is the way to go though.

[Nomad]

Originally Posted by Agent WD-40

Any particular puller size that works best? Sounds like that is the way to go though.

3" reach will work. I didn't pull the bushing out. I used a nut and washer on the screw and pushed it out after trimming the flanges off the bushing.

[Jaysin]

Here is how I installed my trailing arm and knuckle bushings.

http://camaromodz.com/trailingarms.htm

[PfadtRacing]

Hey guys. The trailing arm install is pretty straight forward, the only tricky bit is getting the bushing out of the spindle. We offer an install tool which can expedite the process, although there are many other ways to get the bushing out if you don't have the tool. Using a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pressing the bushing out is a very effective way of removal.

You can also use a C Clamp like in the link above, after trimming the outside of the bushing, find a socket large enough to ride on the outside diameter of the spindle and using another smaller socket as a drift push the bushing out. That's essentially what our tool does, here is a picture of the tool to help visualize what's going on here.

If you would like to purchase the tool, it is $30. If you're doing a trailing arm install it's absolutely worth the effort to get the stock bushing out and the new poly bushing provided pushed in. The new bushing should install pretty easily, although a dead blow hammer or Rubber mallet will speed up installation.

[Stealth 2010 2SS/RS]

Agent WD-40 try going to the hardware store and making your own tool thats what I did and I think that I have about $10 into it here's a pic of it.

[Agent WD-40]

Originally Posted by PfadtRacing

Hey guys. The trailing arm install is pretty straight forward, the only tricky bit is getting the bushing out of the spindle. We offer an install tool which can expedite the process, although there are many other ways to get the bushing out if you don't have the tool. Using a 2 or 3 jaw puller and pressing the bushing out is a very effective way of removal.

You can also use a C Clamp like in the link above, after trimming the outside of the bushing, find a socket large enough to ride on the outside diameter of the spindle and using another smaller socket as a drift push the bushing out. That's essentially what our tool does, here is a picture of the tool to help visualize what's going on here.

If you would like to purchase the tool, it is $30. If you're doing a trailing arm install it's absolutely worth the effort to get the stock bushing out and the new poly bushing provided pushed in. The new bushing should install pretty easily, although a dead blow hammer or Rubber mallet will speed up installation.

I ordered one of these today through Chase at Apex Speed. He was able to make sure it got to me by Friday for my install this weekend (I just send him a PM about it this morning too). They even me instead of sending me a note to make sure I was able to order in time. Definitely A++ customer service!

[toast]

I just finished installing Pfadt trailing arms this weekend. It was very straight forward. A couple tips for getting the bushings out ... cut the rubber off the old bushing BEFORE you pull the shock tower and lower control arm bolts. This way it is not jiggling around when you cut the rubber. I found it very easy to cut the rubber with a serrated knife ( a steak knife) and cut under the flag straight into the center of the sleeve. It took two minutes and completely removed the flap. To pull the old bushing out I put together a homemade tool that worked perfectly (pictured) ... It is a 1 13/16" socket ... a six inch long 3/8" bolt (1/2" is too big) ... a 1 5/16" bearing driver insert (you could use a large nut) ... add a couple washers and there you have it. It was very easy to get the old bushing out with this tool. Without a special tool of some kind (puller etc.) this would be difficult to do because there is very little clearance. To make it simpler to insert the bushing flanges, I caged them in with a 1/2" bolt and a couple washers. Not necessary, however it made it very easy to press them in. Also be aware that there are two packets of grease in the bag with the aluminum sleeves. Originally I thought they were a little skimpy with the grease until I saw the other packet. I love the trailing arms.

[Agent WD-40]

Well I got this done this weekend. Not too terribly difficult. The Pfadt bushing puller tool made all the difference though.

I did find that you don't need to take the lower shock bolt out of the lower control arm to get the upright out of the way. You can just jack it up and that worked great for me.

Thanks for all the tips though.

[PfadtRacing]

Awesome. Glad to hear that things went smoothly! The rear trailing arm install is pretty straight forward. Now it's time to go out and enjoy the new found traction!