Car not idling properly after tune

[mikeSS]

Originally Posted by KapsSS

Yeah, I have already pissed away at least $800 in solo cats and installation just to change it out three weeks later. Hopefully I can at least get some money back by selling the Solos.

i did the same thing, i ditched my JBA high flow cats for long tube headers. i actually sold them to a member here.

[ssmike]

Originally Posted by mikeSS

i did the same thing, i ditched my JBA high flow cats for long tube headers. i actually sold them to a member here.

Same thing here! Installed DT shorties and Solo cats only to remove them in favor of LT's (JRE 415 package)! Thankfully I sold them both and recouped some cash! A member in Germany bought the cats!

[Tampa Tuning]

I currenty use the TR55 in my car. Ive used the TR6, and the stockers. Never noticed a performance differance in the three. Im just a heads and cam car. Ive had the stock plug in the car for 8 years, and over the last 3 years changed from TR6 to TR55. Maybe if anything Ive notice a slight differance in engine running temps by maybe 3-4 degrees, and frankly that's most likely the gapping of the spark causing that. No performance gain for the Tampa Tuning mule.

Bolt ons with or without a tune shouldnt cause an idle issue, but if it does you'll have to adjust your adaptive idle proportional and integral airflow tables and /or start up airflow slighty. ( very slightly if the car is stock but most liked not needed at all) Ive never had to do this on a pure stock bolt on car. The tables in pounds per minute

Id just check to see if a spark plug wire is loose first.

[nyny69]

Originally Posted by transfomers

i know you have a badass camaro

As you did at one time

[KapsSS]

This is going to sound really stupid. Well, it is stupid and I guess you could say my fault. The issue was with the Cold Air Inductions intake I installed. As I said, the issue started after winding out 1st and 2nd, which I shifted pretty hard. I guess I didn't have the clamp on tight enough and the filter popped off. The tube was in front of the fans, so when they turned on, it was blowing hot air in there which was messing up the MAF.

I thought the car sounded a bit different. I heard air, but figured it couldn't be an exhaust leak since that would be much louder than just air passing through some where. I guess it was coming from the intake.

My bad, but I admit I was the idiot here.

[jhormilla]

Originally Posted by KapsSS

This is going to sound really stupid. Well, it is stupid and I guess you could say my fault. The issue was with the Cold Air Inductions intake I installed. As I said, the issue started after winding out 1st and 2nd, which I shifted pretty hard. I guess I didn't have the clamp on tight enough and the filter popped off. The tube was in front of the fans, so when they turned on, it was blowing hot air in there which was messing up the MAF.

I thought the car sounded a bit different. I heard air, but figured it couldn't be an exhaust leak since that would be much louder than just air passing through some where. I guess it was coming from the intake.

My bad, but I admit I was the idiot here.

That could happen to anybody so don't beat yourself up over it. Filter is back on, reset the fuel trims and all is well.

Julio

[csjcsj]

Glad to know you solved your problem! It's the small things we overlook!

[Patrick G]

Many of the reasons why General Motors installs more expensive life-extending components like iridium spark plugs, synthetic Dextron 6 fluid, and Dexcool 100k mile coolant is not necessarily about performance, but to be able to honor a 7 year 100 mile warranty. The stock iridium spark plugs do not conduct electricity as well as a copper plug like an NGK TR55, but they will have a much more consistent spark at 80k miles whereas the copper plugs would be wasted. The general would rather have longer lasting components so the customer doesn't install sub-par components by accident. In my years of dyno testing, an NGK TR55 is not a step down in performance over a factory iridium plug.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Patrick G

Many of the reasons why General Motors installs more expensive life-extending components like iridium spark plugs, synthetic Dextron 6 fluid, and Dexcool 100k mile coolant is not necessarily about performance, but to be able to honor a 7 year 100 mile warranty. The stock iridium spark plugs do not conduct electricity as well as a copper plug like an NGK TR55, but they will have a much more consistent spark at 80k miles whereas the copper plugs would be wasted. The general would rather have longer lasting components so the customer doesn't install sub-par components by accident. In my years of dyno testing, an NGK TR55 is not a step down in performance over a factory iridium plug.

Here is a Good Read for everyone to clear up some misconceptions about Copper vs Iridium.

http://www.weaponxperformance.com/te...UG_TECH_V1.pdf

[KapsSS]

Originally Posted by JANNETTYRACING

Here is a Good Read for everyone to clear up some misconceptions about Copper vs Iridium.

http://www.weaponxperformance.com/te...UG_TECH_V1.pdf

Not like that company would be trying to sell "their" product.

We could also go by this article, but I can't say how accurate it is. I am not an engineer, but I know Julio from Cartek is.

"Many people come to the point where they are forced to change the spark plugs on their vehicle and face a difficult decision; copper spark plugs or those of another type? You can find spark plugs in a variety of different metal combinations, including aluminum spark plugs, iridium plugs, platinum and more. Copper core spark plugs are still the most commonly seen, however, and many people agree that they are the best. However, the advertising that accompanies the different types of spark plugs is potentially misleading, so it's important to recognize the real difference between the spark plugs in question. In order to do that, it's necessary to first learn about what the metal in the spark plug is used for.

Purpose of the Metal
The metal in a spark plug serves a single basic purpose: to channel the electric energy from the plug wire through the spark plug so that it can be forced to the engine block in the form of a spark. Therefore, any metal that conducts electricity at all could potentially be used for a spark plug. The metal should also not get too hot; one of the main problems with some metals is that they overheat quickly, causing the electric charge itself to be compromised and the spark plug to not operate as smoothly.

Copper Spark Plugs
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Copper spark plugs are generally considered to have the best performance of any spark plug type. This is potentially different from what advertising companies suggest, but the other metals are, unfortunately, not as conductive in general as copper is. Platinum and iridium plugs are more likely to overheat, which causes damage to the plug components and can compromise the delivery of the spark to the engine block.

Platinum and Iridium Plugs
Platinum and Iridium plugs perform at a lower level than copper spark plugs, because they are less conductive and they tend to overheat. However, the overall longevity of these two types of metal is better than copper plugs. In reality, copper has the best performance of all three and the worst longevity. Platinum has good longevity and the worst performance. Iridium has good longevity and a performance that is decent, which is why iridium plugs tend to be more expensive than any other type. Still, the difference between these plugs in terms of overall quality is minimal, as there is a trade off for each.

Most copper plugs need to be changed every 20,000 miles or so. Platinum and iridium plugs can often go for twice that before they require changing, but the overall performance will not be as good and you may have to deal with overheating of the plugs. This is potentially not worth the added cost of both platinum and iridium spark plugs, although the decision will depend upon your preference.

If you have any other questions about spark plugs and which are right for your vehicle, consult with a mechanic for more advice."

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by KapsSS

Not like that company would be trying to sell "their" product.

Agreed but the technical data is still accurate.

As I said it is a good Read, take from it what you will.

Ted.

[Nvincent4708]

I sit on this site pretty much mon-friday 8-5 as i'm sure Ted and everyone on here sees. I read and take in good from bad info. I've never read BAD information from Ted. There are quite a few people on here that I would listen to and use their advice to the T.. He would be one of those..

Thanks for the info for the plugs

[Patrick G]

We did some extensive testing on the vaunted WeaponX plugs with a naturally aspirated 600rwhp Z06 Corvette when these plugs were first being introduced to the market. We were told by the company to expect a 15rwhp gain vs a copper plug on an engine this stout. We had NGK TR6 plugs installed and made 601 rwhp. Changed to the WeaponX plugs on the dyno and retested. Best pull was 597rwhp. Reinstalled TR6 plugs on the dyno and made 601rwhp.

From that point on, I dismissed the WeaponX technology advantage as mostly hype and not real world substance. I love new technology and embrace it when the results back up the literature. In the case of the WeaponX plugs, the proof was not in the pudding.

[JANNETTYRACING]

Originally Posted by Patrick G

We did some extensive testing on the vaunted WeaponX plugs with a naturally aspirated 600rwhp Z06 Corvette when these plugs were first being introduced to the market. We were told by the company to expect a 15rwhp gain vs a copper plug on an engine this stout. We had NGK TR6 plugs installed and made 601 rwhp. Changed to the WeaponX plugs on the dyno and retested. Best pull was 597rwhp. Reinstalled TR6 plugs on the dyno and made 601rwhp.

From that point on, I dismissed the WeaponX technology advantage as mostly hype and not real world substance. I love new technology and embrace it when the results back up the literature. In the case of the WeaponX plugs, the proof was not in the pudding.

As convincing as that may sound on the surface many factors can swing the dyno 4 hp so it is not very definitive.

A hotter spark requires more fuel and vice versa.

Racing with spark plugs is one requirement, and street driving is an entirely different requirement.

The majority of use with all the members on here is Street Driving, and IMO the Factory plugs will out perform the the TR6 All day long.

And Like you I have never seen any HP from changing spark plug types styles and HYPES.

That's why I Trust GM Engineers choice.