OBX LT headers install

[CamaroC-17]

Don't remove your resonators!!!!! It will be raspy beyond belief! When you get on it it will sound like static.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk

[HopeRidesAlone]

hmm i dont seem to get that bad of rasp everyone is talking about i have the ark DTS witch has the resonated X pipe.

[2010camarolt]

now you got me worried about installing my headers. there only shorties..i hope all the bolts line up!

[BloodUSMC]

Originally Posted by HopeRidesAlone

hmm i dont seem to get that bad of rasp everyone is talking about i have the ark DTS witch has the resonated X pipe.

As bmorecam suggested before on anothet topic. The resonated x pipe is the reason why you are not having the bad rasp. My rasp comes in after 2k rpm! And its strong (vibration in my ears if I floor it). Again I should get the x pipe in the mail this week.

[BloodUSMC]

Originally Posted by 2010camarolt

now you got me worried about installing my headers. there only shorties..i hope all the bolts line up!

good luck its not an easy job, have someone assist you it will make things a little easier. I had my friend hold the socket from the bottom while i turn the ratchet from the top. Lol.

Get long extensions, short extensions, small ratchet, big ratchet. You will use everything.

[BloodUSMC]

Originally Posted by bmorecam

[/B]

Talk about things breaking It took me a day and a half to complete my header swap and probably suffered for that following week with pain all over my body. I still have blood stains on my header that will not go away from when I cut my finger trying to get to some of those bolts lol.

It wasn't as bad as having to only take out 4 bolts on my suby right behind the turbo to replace the downpipe though. The only thing with these STi's is that everything look like it's been cramped in and there's ablsolutely almost zero room to work in. our camaro is heaven compared to a suby. I'm not even going to go there as to what has to be done to take out those horizontal headers lol.

I hope you got rid of all the stains on the header before starting the car.

I tried as much as i can. I finished the job 1 am in the morning. So i was like dead and dont know wth i was doing at the end.

Lol heaven! It looks like there is a lot of room in there. But there is nothing! I wonder how shops actually change headers.

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by BloodUSMC

good luck its not an easy job, have someone assist you it will make things a little easier. I had my friend hold the socket from the bottom while i turn the ratchet from the top. Lol.

Get long extensions, short extensions, small ratchet, big ratchet. You will use everything.

oh lord this should be interesting

[HopeRidesAlone]

its fun but be prepared it is a long install i started late like 7pm finished at 3 am after the 1 hour daylight savings time but we did take about an hour of breaks their are some tight spaces to get the bolts out. the drivers side is the easiest by far. Are you welding on the shorties?

[Ventmaster]

I'm afraid the gasket has pivoted on just one or two bolts and the others are holding it out of alignment. There's no way of telling which one's are actually inline and which are the problem.

You're gonna have to start over- use some gasket adhesive or RTV to keep it from shifting. Otherwise everytime you start the car you'll be wondering "Is that a leak I'm hearing?"

My headers have blood on them too. I found my best solution for the bolts on top under the alternater was a 13mm racheting box wrench. Using that I didn't have to disassemble anything else.

Remember- you're having fun!

[HopeRidesAlone]

lol yea it was fun
one thought BloodUSMC can you feel around the headers where whey bolt up and make sure you gasket is flush all the way around?

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by HopeRidesAlone

its fun but be prepared it is a long install i started late like 7pm finished at 3 am after the 1 hour daylight savings time but we did take about an hour of breaks their are some tight spaces to get the bolts out. the drivers side is the easiest by far. Are you welding on the shorties?

i have a welded flange on the headers so i just have to weld a flange on the cat pipe(dont know the real name for it) and then they will bolt together

[Ventmaster]

Originally Posted by 2010camarolt

i have a welded flange on the headers so i just have to weld a flange on the cat pipe(dont know the real name for it) and then they will bolt together

Are we talking JBA's here. If so, be sure you mock those up very well before you tack weld them in place. If not perfectly true- they will leak.
JBA provides no gasket and just a "v-clamp" to hold the two pipes together.

My advice (if you've got JBA) is to cut the flat flange off the header and weld a real exhaust flange to it and the mid-pipe (cat pipe) before final assembly. It can save you alot of headaches.

[2010camarolt]

Originally Posted by Ventmaster

Are we talking JBA's here. If so, be sure you mock those up very well before you tack weld them in place. If not perfectly true- they will leak.
JBA provides no gasket and just a "v-clamp" to hold the two pipes together.

My advice (if you've got JBA) is to cut the flat flange off the header and weld a real exhaust flange to it and the mid-pipe (cat pipe) before final assembly. It can save you alot of headaches.

no i have DT shorty headers. I got them from a member here so i know the flanges wont leak. Its a 3point exhaust flange so i shouldnt have a problem! I hope

p.s not trying 2 thread jack

[bmorecam]

Originally Posted by HopeRidesAlone

hmm i dont seem to get that bad of rasp everyone is talking about i have the ark DTS witch has the resonated X pipe.

That's because you already have a very well designed cat back to start with I am really thinking about ditching my setup just to go with ARK, the burnt tip version, but probably not too smart right now as I am gonna have to dish out close to $3-4 grand in january-february, but tax return should be able to compensate that a little. ARK is definitely the shyzznit!!