Project Cleaning the Clutter in Our Engine Bay

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by 572HP

Nathan, I'm impressed more and more every day!

I'm sure that you already know this...but just in case, and for everyone else, the two large torx bolts on the front trim piece up by the hood latch, are adjustment screws to change the height of the front facia so that it lines up with the hood. I'm sure you don't want to replace them.

Thanks 572, this weekend should be productive. Got my fingers cross the parts a waiting for will be here tomorrow.

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

wish you lived closer , i would rent you out..lol

Mike, I works for food, LOL

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by bmbbl be

looks great....

any chance you have a list of what it would take to reproduce the water line set-up you have in this pics

The parts I use are XRP. Here the list.
Parts: 82446
Description: Special Tee, Flare -4 Male w/ -6 Male Branch
Quantity: 1




Parts: 109004SN
Description: -4 90 Deg Hose End Super Nickel
Quantity: 2


Parts: 100004SN
Description: -4 Straight Hose End - Super Nickel
Quantity: 2



Parts: 100006SN
Description: -6 Straight Hose End - Super Nickel
Quantity: 1



Parts: 3106-00
Description: - 6 XR-31 Nylon Braided Race hose
Quantity: 2 FT



Parts: 3104-00
Description: -4 XR-31 Nylon Braided Race hose
Quantity: 2 FT



The blocks are from http://www.krcpower.com/catalog_i112...l?catId=366482



I used ARP bolts: (I'll post the size tomorrow)

My first go around, I got a TEE with size -4 on all ends but the -4 hose is to small to go into the radiator tube. So I changed the TEE to were it has a -4 on two ends and -6 on the end that goes to the radiator and it worked like a sham.

Hope that helps. Let me know if you need anything else. I will say that once I got the kinks worked out, I thinks it's a nicer piece than anything else I've seen in the market.

[Moreno1]

Here an update on the injector connector I will be using on harness 2.0.




I took the trustee Dremel and trimmed down the fat. I have 90 degree heat shrink boots that will cover them. I already test fitted them to the injectors and they grad really good.




This will get rid of the (Gray, Green and Blue Factory units)

[tonytahoe]

Nathan, Just wanted to say your doing a great job with that engine bay.I am just getting started with the engine in my 2SS.I have gathered together some of the parts I have read about you using in your thread.1 more question I have,do you have a part number for the ARP bolts you used for the KATECH tensioner? I want to use the same 12pt.bolts so they match.Thanks,and once again Great JOB! Tt--

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by tonytahoe

Nathan, Just wanted to say your doing a great job with that engine bay.I am just getting started with the engine in my 2SS.I have gathered together some of the parts I have read about you using in your thread.1 more question I have,do you have a part number for the ARP bolts you used for the KATECH tensioner? I want to use the same 12pt.bolts so they match.Thanks,and once again Great JOB! Tt--

I will re-edit this post with parts # and bolt dimensions, just need to look it up.

[Moreno1]

Well, here's a project I enjoyed a lot. Removing the battery terminal bracket and relocating the cables to the driver side wheel well. I think it's a huge step in cleaning up the engine bay. I do have to give a BIG shot out to EZspeed for helping me with the process.

This gives you an idea of the visual obstruction the positive battery cable and bracket bring to the driver side.



To drill out the bracket, I took a tip from http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=192389 Thanks Ray for posting your DIY, the advice made drilling the spot welds a lot simpler.

Coming along.....



I also relocated the harness for the ABS and ground cable.



The ABS is runs into a group of other harness by the firewall. I proceeded to clean the pill up.



I cover the positive cable with braided nylon sleeting. Notice how the red is coming through.



To remedy it from happening, I wrapped the cable with black harness tape




Much better......After slipping the sleeve, I shrink rap on the end by the firewall. This allows me to pull on the sleeve so that the more stretch it is, the tighter the fit.



The ABS harness now runs inside the wheel well. I was able to use the existing bolts for the brake line bracket for the ground wire. The ground was previously on mounted in the engine bays frame rail.




Here is the finish product nicely shrink wrapped.



Random shot but looks kinda cool lifted. My trustee "Eli" keeping a watch, LOL.



The end result.....much cleaner and great satisfaction.



And finally, the left over carnage. Make me wounder how much "total" weight I've remove with all the garbage I've taken off.



Little comparison preview......harness 1.0



VS harness 2.0 in the making....... you could barly see it.....



Till next time....over and out

[MikeOD]

You're not concerned with the injectors staying plugged in with the way you modified the connectors?

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by MikeOD

You're not concerned with the injectors staying plugged in with the way you modified the connectors?

Of coarse, that was one of my main concerns. But after purchasing the replacement connector and studying them. Trimming them and trial fitting them and pulling on them, seeing whats actually going on with the design, how deep the socket goes it, I feel confident that they are not going anywhere.

But I do understand your question and if they did get lose for any reason, I have another solution that.

By the way, the shrink wrap in the picture is not what I will be using. The ones I'm using shrink with a 90 bend. So the wire will be going back instead of "up" like in the picture. That was just a muck up shot to get a idea of how the final version will look.

[mikepage0007]

i cheated here, i bought this and painted it iom..

[mike.nite]

Hey Nathan

I also have a vararam and aside of the red coupler I am pretty happy with it. So I realy want to get rid of it and replace it with a black coupler.


Is your coupler from K&N? My only concern is that the new coupler might is to stiff/not soft enough. I dont want to put to much stress on the Vararams neck.


Any advice would be highly appreciated.

[BLACK10]

looking good man.im a fanatic of an clean engine bay. you're doing a great job.


here are a few pics of when i shaved my battery post before the centri sc install

[cpoboats]

There is no wrong answer.... Do what you like, and what makes you happy to open the hood.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by mikepage0007

i cheated here, i bought this and painted it iom..

Congrats Mike on the purchase! Can't wait to see the pictures. Make sure you post some pictures when you got them in.

Originally Posted by BLACK10

looking good man.im a fanatic of an clean engine bay. you're doing a great job.


here are a few pics of when i shaved my battery post before the centri sc install

Thanks BLACK10 for the word of encouragement. I can't believe the difference it made to shave the battery post. I'll get it painted next. Going to go with a satin white finish. But it will have to wait as I still have some other things to do and wont want to scratch the paint.

[Moreno1]

Originally Posted by mike.nite

Hey Nathan

I also have a vararam and aside of the red coupler I am pretty happy with it. So I realy want to get rid of it and replace it with a black coupler.


Is your coupler from K&N? My only concern is that the new coupler might is to stiff/not soft enough. I dont want to put to much stress on the Vararams neck.


Any advice would be highly appreciated.

Mike, I actually got a 4"" couple from Patrick at Vararam. I was speaking with him and mention how I was looking for a black couple. He said he had one lying around. To send him an e-mail and he would mail it to me. I can't say enough about their customer service.

The Vararam couple is 2" in width. So I only needed half. If you PM your address, I will mail you the other half. Let me know if you would like me to pull out my trustee Dremel and make the hole for you.

Nathan