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Old 02-20-2012, 02:35 PM   #85
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I just put mine on as well on Saturday, drove about 100 miles, and the smell of oil in the cabin at idle is really noticeable compared to before I installed it.

Maybe my drain is open as well as default.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bannonm View Post
Can someone clarify this statement made by SC...

"we find a high percentage accidently open the drain valve. he drain valve is CLOSED when the thrreads are all the way exposed and extended, and open when the threads are retraceted and not all visable."

As I'm sitting here at lunch reading this, I'm concerned my RX can is open. Looking at the bottom of the can, if I turn the valve clockwise is the valve shut? As any normal valve, if I turn it CW the valve closes. Sounds to me like this valve on this can is opposite. So again, looking at the bottom of the can turning the valve CCW actually is closing the valve?

I just put this can on a few weeks ago but only have less than 100 miles on it. I started smelling the faint smell of burnt oil while driving and now I confused if maybe I have the valve open and that's what I'm smelling. And no I don't have the hoses flipped.
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:43 PM   #86
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Here is my current configuration after install. Can you confirm that this is closed, maybe it will be useful for others as a determination when they check:
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Old 02-20-2012, 02:59 PM   #87
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This whole convo has me questioning if MINE is closed now!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dcplus14 View Post
Here is my current configuration after install. Can you confirm that this is closed, maybe it will be useful for others as a determination when they check:
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:06 PM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DandD View Post
so then there is still no explanation as to what caused Whitehambone's problem here?
The biggest possible problem that I read was the below freezing weather had caused the pcv valve to stick in the closed position, if everything is working as it should now, there was more than likely moisture that froze in the pcv valve and may have cause the build up in pressure. Once the engine warmed up and the valve became unfrozen everything seems to be working...doesn't take long to build up pressure within the crankcase....just my .02

Quick way to check that is remove the pcv valve, drop it in water and put it in the freezer for a while, then take valve out of the freezer and shake it...probably will not rattle and end up in the stuck closed position

Just a guess guys
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:10 PM   #89
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Christ guys. This talk is getting me worried. I'm going to doublr check mine when i get home.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:37 PM   #90
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Alright, I was hoping for a response from my questions so I will ask this again. Seeing the OPs huge oil blow out can other drivers, with any catch can, avoid this from happening by keeping and eye on our oil guages?

Again, not intending to disrespect the OP for his misfortunes.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rberns View Post
Alright, I was hoping for a response from my questions so I will ask this again. Seeing the OPs huge oil blow out can other drivers, with any catch can, avoid this from happening by keeping and eye on our oil guages?

Again, not intending to disrespect the OP for his misfortunes.
By looking at the picture it looks like he lost no more than a pint of oil, that would not show up on the oil pressure guage being that these engines hold 8 quarts. Hope that helps
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:55 PM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MA2010SS View Post
The biggest possible problem that I read was the below freezing weather had caused the pcv valve to stick in the closed position, if everything is working as it should now, there was more than likely moisture that froze in the pcv valve and may have cause the build up in pressure. Once the engine warmed up and the valve became unfrozen everything seems to be working...doesn't take long to build up pressure within the crankcase....just my .02

Quick way to check that is remove the pcv valve, drop it in water and put it in the freezer for a while, then take valve out of the freezer and shake it...probably will not rattle and end up in the stuck closed position

Just a guess guys
The pictures of the valve show it in the CLOSED position. If the threads are all the way out it is closed. It is clockwaise righty tighty, but that is if looking at the can from the bottom and that is where it gets confusing.

Most oil leaks we see are the oil cooler (well known TSB on them) but if the valve is left open the oil caught will drain out and can get on the exhaust.

MA2010 is correct. In cold climates the cans will catch a good amount of water as well and if left to get to full can freeze if it is well below freezing. Also, the checkvalves themselves can if moisture is trapped in them. When draining, make sure to have the engine warm and then with the motor off, open the drain valve and allow it to drain for 3-5 minutes (less in warm weather).

With the cans mounted to the cylinder head they warm up fast, but on the drivers side air box stud mount it is further and takes longer to warm.

To see if all is working correctly, with the motor idling, pull the line loose from the crankcase vent and fell for suction. If you have suction then all is fine.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:57 PM   #93
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I want to add that this is a first for this issue that the OP had and he did not blow out the seal it appears as the leak seems to have stopped w/out the pressure behind it.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:43 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rberns View Post
Alright, I was hoping for a response from my questions so I will ask this again. Seeing the OPs huge oil blow out can other drivers, with any catch can, avoid this from happening by keeping and eye on our oil guages?

Again, not intending to disrespect the OP for his misfortunes.
Quote:
Originally Posted by MA2010SS View Post
By looking at the picture it looks like he lost no more than a pint of oil, that would not show up on the oil pressure guage being that these engines hold 8 quarts. Hope that helps
Being that only the crankcase pressurizes (valve covers and oil pan basically) I would not expect to see a bump in oil pressure. Oil pressure is measured in the oil gallery downstream of the oil pump. The amount of pressure there, 20-40psi at times, is much more than the 1-2lbs. (if that) extra in the crankcase. If the crankcase pressure gets above a couple pounds, maybe even less than that, the oil pan/seals/etc. would definitely begin to fail.
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Old 02-20-2012, 04:45 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rberns View Post
Alright, I was hoping for a response from my questions so I will ask this again. Seeing the OPs huge oil blow out can other drivers, with any catch can, avoid this from happening by keeping and eye on our oil guages?

Again, not intending to disrespect the OP for his misfortunes.
Again my gauges read normal. It is not an issue with oil pressure, but pressure building up in the crank case from normal blow by.
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:11 PM   #96
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Old 02-20-2012, 05:19 PM   #97
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I had a detailed conversation with SC2150 regarding the RX catch can and my particular problem. He confirmed that my install was correct and most likely cause was a frozen valve on the catch can. This caused pressure build up in the crankcase. He believes if the leak stopped, no permanent was done to the seal. I spoke with the performance shop that I plan on using for my tune this spring. They also felt if the leak stopped all would be good. They also told me that they never install a catch can with a metered valve. As I said before the factory tube is not metered. I really do not think I lost very much oil through the seal. It had been it running for several minutes before finding the problem. The oil stain in the driveway was only about 3 or 4 inches in diameter. I plan on using the optional non-metered fitting on the catch can since I live in a cold environment. Both SC2150 and my performance shop said this would prevent the problem from ever happening. If your catch can is mounted close to the engine, you may not have anything to worry about. As you can see in the picture, mine is mounted a ways from the engine. This is a common location for those that have a Vararam CAI. Your mileage may vary.

I want to thank everyone for all of the ideas and help you provided. I believe that the RX catch can is a good product. But I did want everyone to know that there is a small chance for a problem and maybe someone would find this information useful.

Thanks again everyone!

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Old 02-20-2012, 05:25 PM   #98
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Glad you got it straightened out! And so far looks like no damage. If you think it may still be leaking in the future let me know and we can use the borescope on that rear seal area.
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