2010-2012 6l80 stalls the same?

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Are the stall convertors the same from the 2010-2012 A6 models?

I'm needing to verify this before I order a used one and have it worked on (re-stalled).

My car is stock and I'm going to keep it stock for a while except convertor and DRs. It will end up being about a 2400-2500 when they are done with it. Not a big change, but that's what I want. Should still feel about the same as stock driving around town and wouldn't need to be tuned.

So, any changes in the factory 4l80 convertors from 2010-2012?

The used ones I found in good shape and low miles are from 2010 models.

If they aren't 100% the same, then I will just have my factory convertor re-stalled.

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Well... I found out on tech that all the 6l80 converters are the same, except the corvette ones.

So the G8, Camaro, and even truck converters will all interchange without problems.

(From Chris @ Circle D)

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Depending on what your paying for the used one (and what the used one is) and the cost to restall, you may be better off buying a custom built billet unit. $799 and guaranteed to reduce your 1/4 mile ET .5-.7 seconds.

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Originally Posted by SC2150

Depending on what your paying for the used one (and what the used one is) and the cost to restall, you may be better off buying a custom built billet unit. $799 and guaranteed to reduce your 1/4 mile ET .5-.7 seconds.

I thought about this also. My other LSX street car has a 3600 in it, so I thought about that route. But I'm just wanting to pick it up 400-500 RPM, so it still drives like stock (pretty much), but is just a little faster and leaves harder.

I will have under $400 in it once its done, so thats half the price of a new one.

I bought this car for business use, and for me and the wife to take on road trips, but decided to run a few of the lsx races while I'm finishing up other builds and my new shop. So what started out as "I'm leaving it 100% stock has changed a little".

But still just doing a small convertor change and getting some 20" MT radials. Figured I needed a few tenths to run the index when the weather warms up, vs having to try and slow it down .6-.7 with a real good converter.

Plus, I didn't want to have to tune a larger convertor so that GM could void my engine warranty.

My main goal is consistency.