ANNOUNCMENT: JDP Motorsports is Finalizing it's Color Changing RS Halo Package!

[chrish72]

I find this disturbing to say the least! If this in fact is the case then I won't be installing them. I already love me car as is but to have blown fuses all the time for a cool factor, though I'd be using them at shows is not worth the hassle of replacing and inconvenience. Not sure what the return policy is but I'd rather return them and get my money back vs holding onto them waiting for a fix and then be out of time for return. I also don't want to have my friend, Dragom who's going to help with my install go through all this and then maybe later have to have me remove it. Already enough has been done with units installed with some issues which is understandable and JDP has been helpful with replacement parts but still, I think THIS SITUATION NEEDS TO BE ADDRESSED POST HAST so that there are no further complications with this install. Just saying, I'd rather rule on the side of caution with this than favor on the side of cool and blown fuses and possibly burnt wires.

I have a set on order and am a little concerned that it may or may not work, but Sean (01Pewterz28) has posted a short blurb on how to test the unit before install to ensure it all works...maybe we can leave it plugged in for a while and start the car a few times, turn on all lights, check turn signals, etc. to see if it blows the fuses at any point.

Originally Posted by 01pewterz28

Here are my suggestions.

1. Make sure you have all of the tools set aside beforehand (I asked JDP they sent me a nice PDF file with a photo/name of each tool needed)

2. Test the unit before installing/taking apart the car.

How to test w/out installing
Connect both headlight LED's to the wiring harness, connect the interior LED to the wiring harness, connect the switch to the wiring harness, plug in both of the plugs into the fuse box, and connect the ground to a good ground on the car. When you first do this you will see the headlight LED blink once, now flip the switch to either the power or the battery and press the buttons on the remote you will see all of the colors light up test each color on the remote and as well as the modes and that’s it if they are not working then you can trouble shoot from this point. By testing it like this you can make sure the unit is working before the install that way when you go to pull everything off, and open the lights and stuff you know the unit is working.

3. Take your time on the headlights 2 of the 4 screws are a PITA to get to so take your time I suggest working on the headlights in a cool A/C environment (keeps you cool)

Maybe JDP can also give us a some ohm readings pin to pin that are normal on a working system so that we can test the wiring before install as well. but those might be proprietary...not sure...

Fingers crossed that blown fuses are an isolated issue.

[cubjag]

Are you sure you have the positions correct on the switch? That would blow the fuse if they were crossed.

[01pewterz28]

Originally Posted by cubjag

Are you sure you have the positions correct on the switch? That would blow the fuse if they were crossed.

I took a look at my friends on Saturday he has the LED scanner bar, and the Halo lights the lights and the LED scanner are both running off the battery he had them on for 3 hours Saturday fired up the car drove approx 100 yds when the "check rear turning signal lamp" message appeared so he pulled over to the gas station we replaced the fuses and it worked again so he tried it Sunday for a little bit as long as he did not turn on the LED scanner bar but had the halo lights on he was fine the minute he had them both fired up for 30 minutes the fuse went again so this leads me to believe the fuses cannot take two devices working at the same time even though the LED scanner is not plugged into the fuse box it's connected to a ground, and the box by the fuse box (positive). I hope this can be addressed as I run 3 LED devices on my car (LED bowtie, LED scanner bar, LED footwell lighting (hardly ever use), and then I will have my Halo lights so that will be 4 items for shows.

Sean

[MackMan]

Well dang... I should be receiving my kit today - hoping to install and take some pictures tonight. I also have 2 knightrider lights I am going to install to shine through my grills... Are you saying that if I run the knightrider lights and halos (like at a show) my fuse will probably blow? I also have footwell lights that are hooked to my dome light. I hope not, I know someone on here has like a million LED things on their car (might be Lupe, not 100% sure though it's a red car though) - I wonder how they do it.

[01pewterz28]

Originally Posted by MackMan

Well dang... I should be receiving my kit today - hoping to install and take some pictures tonight. I also have 2 knightrider lights I am going to install to shine through my grills... Are you saying that if I run the knightrider lights and halos (like at a show) my fuse will probably blow? I also have footwell lights that are hooked to my dome light. I hope not, I know someone on here has like a million LED things on their car (might be Lupe, not 100% sure though it's a red car though) - I wonder how they do it.

I fired off a PM to JDP to see what gives about this as I am in the same boat with my buddy he has just the LED scanner and the halo lights and he is blowing fuses if both are on what is odd is both continue to work it's just the message pops up on the DIC, the dome light goes out, and the rear tail lamps stop working until you replace the fuses.

[MackMan]

Originally Posted by 01pewterz28

I fired off a PM to JDP to see what gives about this as I am in the same boat with my buddy he has just the LED scanner and the halo lights and he is blowing fuses if both are on what is odd is both continue to work it's just the message pops up on the DIC, the dome light goes out, and the rear tail lamps stop working until you replace the fuses.

Is it fuse # like 33 or something that's getting blown? I think it was a 15amp fuse? I might have replaced that with a 20amp fuse lol.... I blew one when installing my dome lights - neg & pos touched and blew it. Let us know what they say. Thanks! I'm sure they'll figure something out.

[OKCwhiteKnight]

Emailed Jeremy@JDP......Anyone have a problem with ground at horn brkt? if so where did u ground? That was my only issue at install.

[LS3 SS]

Originally Posted by OKCwhiteKnight

Emailed Jeremy@JDP......Anyone have a problem with ground at horn brkt? if so where did u ground? That was my only issue at install.

What issue did you have at the horn bracket?? The only "slight" issue I had, was I used my drill to expose the metal area around it, and then "force thread" the ring terminal onto the bolt so that it would fit. But other than that, it was a straight forward ground point.

[01pewterz28]

Originally Posted by MackMan

Is it fuse # like 33 or something that's getting blown? I think it was a 15amp fuse? I might have replaced that with a 20amp fuse lol.... I blew one when installing my dome lights - neg & pos touched and blew it. Let us know what they say. Thanks! I'm sure they'll figure something out.

His was slots 16 (5A) 33 (20A) Seems to much power if he runs just the halos it's fine but if he uses his scanner bar they blow. This is the are where I have no understanding about electronics/electtrical stuff but couldnt he replace the 5amp with a 10 or 15amp and the 20 to a 25 amp to take the added usage?

[dragom]

Originally Posted by 01pewterz28

His was slots 16 (5A) 33 (20A) Seems to much power if he runs just the halos it's fine but if he uses his scanner bar they blow. This is the are where I have no understanding about electronics/electtrical stuff but couldnt he replace the 5amp with a 10 or 15amp and the 20 to a 25 amp to take the added usage?

You could go up a little but i wouldn't go too much more then 5 amps over.
I have had no problem out of mine but then again i don't have the scanner lights or the tail light like some of you guys have. If it was me and I was doing it again I would just plug the 2 leads to the fuse box and hook everything up but not installed in the car then turn one thing on at a time to see if the fuses do blow.

[OKCwhiteKnight]

Originally Posted by 01pewterz28

His was slots 16 (5A) 33 (20A) Seems to much power if he runs just the halos it's fine but if he uses his scanner bar they blow. This is the are where I have no understanding about electronics/electtrical stuff but couldnt he replace the 5amp with a 10 or 15amp and the 20 to a 25 amp to take the added usage?

Just to clarify, your friend disconnected his scanner and now no blown fuses?

[cubjag]

I have a scanner, footwell lighting and the halos and haven't had any fuse issues. I have the scanner and the footwell lighting wired to the fuse box on the inside of the car near between the steering and door and the halos are powered to the outside fuse box.

[01pewterz28]

Originally Posted by dragom

You could go up a little but i wouldn't go too much more then 5 amps over.
I have had no problem out of mine but then again i don't have the scanner lights or the tail light like some of you guys have. If it was me and I was doing it again I would just plug the 2 leads to the fuse box and hook everything up but not installed in the car then turn one thing on at a time to see if the fuses do blow.

Yea we are going to do some testing this weekend when we do my install wiring harness and control box since my LED's are already installed and see what we come up with.

Originally Posted by OKCwhiteKnight

Just to clarify, your friend disconnected his scanner and now no blown fuses?

Correct yesterday he ran the Halo lights for 2 hours and did not turn on his LED scanner he had no issues so he turned on the scanner with the Halos on set to bettery mode on the lights and with in a few minutes his interior light stopped working, he turned the car on and the DIC message appeared to check his rear tail lamp he replaced the fuse and it all worked.

Sean

[OKCwhiteKnight]

After work I was planning on disconnecting my footwells,plug the halo's and see what happens. I am out of town,so kind of limited on things to try.
I also thought about popping off kick panel and check back of switch for exposed wire touching metal.