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#29 |
![]() Drives: ZL1 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 109
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The first step is to keep a fresh coat of wax or sealant on the paint. After you've finished a wash, take the nozzle off the hose so that you have a light stream of water coming out. Let that run over the horizontal surfaces of the car and the water will remove itself in a sheeting action leaving mostly just water beads.
Use a nice, clean, soft microfiber waffle weave drying towel. Do not rub the paint dry. Drag the towel over the surface to remove the majority of the remaining water. Blot the rest dry. Never use pressure. That will add swirl marks in a heartbeat. Also, use a separate towel for dirty areas such as fender wells, wheels, exhaust tips, rocker panels, etc. Relegate that towel for those duties. When you wash your towels, use liquid detergent only, with no fabric softener. |
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#30 |
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Banned
Drives: z06 Join Date: May 2012
Location: East coast
Posts: 28
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Jesus maintaining a nice car is a paaainnn. OK so let me ask you this since you seem to know this stuff really well. My car is going to be black and I will have the ventureshield clear bra on it covering the front, mirror covers, entire hood, pillars, etc...
I'm getting the car professionally detailed every 6 months. Since I can't take it to a car wash I have to do it myself every week. How do I go about washing this car every week. Do I need to wax every week? And w/e else is relevant please tell. I also will be adding carbon fiber parts to the car so info on managing those would be helpful too. Thanks. |
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#31 | |
![]() Drives: ZL1 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 109
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Once your car has been clayed, polished, and sealed, the hard work is done. BUT, to keep your paint swirl free, you need to practice good wash techniques. Your method and tools that you use to wash can prolong a perfect paint job, and conversely, improper techniques or tools can ruin one in a hurry. There are lots of resources available online. Check out www.autopia.org and www.autogeek.net and do an Internet search for the "two bucket wash method." I'm not very familiar with carbon fiber parts, but I do know that they can be polished and waxed just like paint can (if those parts are clear coated). The carbon fiber's sensitivity to polishing may be different than clear coated paint, though. |
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#32 | ||
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Banned
Drives: Ms. Daisy Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Nashville,Tn
Posts: 400
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Quote:
Quote:
Great posts with proper information... |
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#33 | |
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Banned
Drives: z06 Join Date: May 2012
Location: East coast
Posts: 28
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Quote:
My shop I go to for mods, they are the ones who have an outside detailer come for the cars as well, is really good. He's been doing the car I have now which is also black and every time he is finished with it, it looks like a brand new car again (till I see the rock chips and get depressed I have an old crap car lol). Also what place has the best products? So far when I do a google search as well as forum search the popular products seem to be Zaino and Meguiars (could be spelling this wrong) |
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#34 |
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I don't know why you would ever put your ZL1 through a car wash, but GM specifically warns against using car washes that are tracked to pull your car through. The wheels and tires are simply too wide and will not fit into most tracks. Even if they do they will likely get damaged.
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#35 | |
![]() Drives: 2011 Chevrolet Camaro SS/RS Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 367
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Quote:
+1,000,000
__________________
2011 2SS/RS RJT M6.
PCTXHN Ordered 8/4/2010 Built 9/28/2010 |
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#36 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2014 Z51 Corvette Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 1,349
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#37 | |
![]() Drives: ZL1 Join Date: May 2012
Location: Kansas
Posts: 109
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Polishing to me is correcting or enhancing the paint by means of cut (compound) or chemical cleaning (something like Klasse All-in-One). When you polish the paint with a compound, really what you're doing is removing minute, almost immeasurable amounts of clear coat. As you do this, it takes the sharp edges of the microscopic scratches/swirlmarks and rounds the sharp edges off so that they don't catch light and then you can't see them. To make things more confusing, there are cleaner waxes and then there are pure waxes. Cleaner waxes include small amounts of abrasives or chemicals which clean and polish the paint while leaving a small amount of carnauba wax or synthetic polymers behind. The compromise here is that, while they can make the paint look good, they will not correct as well as a dedicated compound and they will not protect as well as a dedicated pure wax or sealant. So, after you have corrected the paint by polishing, you protect the finish with a wax. I have used a LOT of products, and honestly, there is no "best" product. I like to shop from Autogeek and Adam's Polishes. I have used Zaino extensively as well and you can't go wrong with their products, either. Right now, I'm using Optimum products on my Roush and Duragloss products on my daily driver. There's really no wrong choice. Meguiar's is great, too. The most important thing is perfecting your technique, finding something you like, and using it often. |
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#38 |
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Car Lover By Nature
Drives: 2016 Hyper Blue Metallic SS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Central FL
Posts: 2,327
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Washing my car is very relaxing to me. IE: Today my wife was bed ridden so I decided to use my alone time wisely. I decided to do one of my full blown wash jobs on my SS. Full blown as in putting UV protectant on my dash as well as thoroughly cleaning my leather seats followed by conditioning them. I see so many people failing to do this and yet they wonder why their leather seats look like hell after only a couple years.
My '10 SS looks, smells and drives like its still brand new. Why? Because I take very good care of my Bee.
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