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#127 |
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Booooosted.
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If the belt is turning when you rev it then you can drive it normal driving.
What exactly are you trying to do? It sounds like your fine the way it is.
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#128 | |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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Sure |
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#129 | |
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Booooosted.
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#130 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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Looks like you still have some room to tighten, but also looks good enough for daily driving. Not as loose as mine is.
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12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#131 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: V10 BMW M5, Supercharged 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Charlotte NC /Brooklyn NY
Posts: 2,305
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Tighten that belt up! Slide the idler till it touches the tensioner and then back it off a hair or two.
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MAST 416 STROKER: STAGE 3 TVS 2300 CUSTOM CAM TPIS 102 TB IW 8 RIB PULLEY W/ OD COG REARS NX EXPRESS/NANO KIT KDI HEAT EXCHANGER/ROTOFAB RESERVOIR CIRCLE D 2800 TC/FLEX PLATE/ADM TRANS COOLER DSS DRIVESHAFT/1400 HP AXLES EATON TRUETRAC -LPE 3.27 GEARS DYNATECH HEADERS/MAGNAFLOW EXHAUST SQUASH RETURN STYLE FS ID 850's E85/ FLEXFUEL BMR/EIBACH SUSPENSION KILL MODE, ON. |
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#132 |
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Booooosted.
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Can't see the numbers on my belt. I'll check when I get home.
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#133 | |
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Booooosted.
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I think his belt is tight. Just shorter. |
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#134 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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thx for all the responses. I'll check back tomorrow for that belt.
Thanks again.
__________________
12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#135 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: V10 BMW M5, Supercharged 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Charlotte NC /Brooklyn NY
Posts: 2,305
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If you can't slide the idler over to the tensioner then you have the wrong BELT. You shouldn't be touching your super tensioner at all for belt tension. I have all my old belts if you need part numbers .
__________________
MAST 416 STROKER: STAGE 3 TVS 2300 CUSTOM CAM TPIS 102 TB IW 8 RIB PULLEY W/ OD COG REARS NX EXPRESS/NANO KIT KDI HEAT EXCHANGER/ROTOFAB RESERVOIR CIRCLE D 2800 TC/FLEX PLATE/ADM TRANS COOLER DSS DRIVESHAFT/1400 HP AXLES EATON TRUETRAC -LPE 3.27 GEARS DYNATECH HEADERS/MAGNAFLOW EXHAUST SQUASH RETURN STYLE FS ID 850's E85/ FLEXFUEL BMR/EIBACH SUSPENSION KILL MODE, ON. |
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#136 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: V10 BMW M5, Supercharged 2SS/RS Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Charlotte NC /Brooklyn NY
Posts: 2,305
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He's got NO belt wrap until he gets that idler over. That thing will slip all day.
__________________
MAST 416 STROKER: STAGE 3 TVS 2300 CUSTOM CAM TPIS 102 TB IW 8 RIB PULLEY W/ OD COG REARS NX EXPRESS/NANO KIT KDI HEAT EXCHANGER/ROTOFAB RESERVOIR CIRCLE D 2800 TC/FLEX PLATE/ADM TRANS COOLER DSS DRIVESHAFT/1400 HP AXLES EATON TRUETRAC -LPE 3.27 GEARS DYNATECH HEADERS/MAGNAFLOW EXHAUST SQUASH RETURN STYLE FS ID 850's E85/ FLEXFUEL BMR/EIBACH SUSPENSION KILL MODE, ON. |
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#137 |
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Guest
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What is the correct belt# needed using the Super Tensioner and a 3.4 pulley? I also have about a 1-1/2" gap with the belt tightened properly but I am concerned about belt wrap... What is the best belt to buy?
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#138 | |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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Quote:
First off, I know I have the right belt on there. The car only has 1500 miles and that's the belt that came with Maggie. My shop where I used to live did all the install, then I moved 185 miles south, and I always noticed that the pulley should be closer to super tensioner, so i tried to do it myself. Plus I had bought a Billet Idler pulley and thought about replacing that after seeing how easy it would be to move idler. 1. I loosened the idler pulley a little bit, then because of belt tension it slide to the right. I figured because it moved to the right, that it was loose enough to slide to left. 2. At first I used a small pry bar like Ted recommended, gently against my throttle body. Because it's so tight in there I was trying to keep pry bar as close as possible, I took off the CAI silicon sleeve and saw that I bent the outer rim of TB with pry bar. Then I fixed that first before doing the pulley again. Then I came on here and started searching how to move over idler pulley....and here I am! 3. From what Supercharged SS said, maybe I have to really loosen the idler bolt in order to make it slide over? How do you do it Lexlueger? I have to bring the car to Haddad's here in LA on Thursday for a tune and to go over some future work since that'll be my new local shop, but I was supposed to go on a cruise on Sunday and don't want any problems. I'm going to try to slide it over again today, and it's early here on the west coast, so maybe I can get some good info before I attempt again. |
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#139 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: Fire Engine Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: WPB, Florida
Posts: 1,415
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When I installed my Maggie, the kit provided a long bolt that goes into that empty bolt hole just to the upper right of the idler pulley. That is what they recommended using to pry against, not the TB. It worked like a charm. Once I get the belt, That's how I'm gonna do mine.
__________________
12.618 @ 110.75 Bone Stock 1/4 mile
8.165 @ 86.52 Bone Stock 1/8 mile 11.189 @ 124.44 on a 1.73 60' TVS2300 3.4 pulley, JRE tuned, Kooks LT headers and HF cats, MBRP catback exhaust, CAI intake, ADM scoop. Stock wheels/tires. Sold |
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#140 | |
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NJ/SoCal HT5 COTW 3/25/12
Drives: 2015 Z06/14 C7/08 Z06/07 Tahoe Z71 Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: South Jersey & SoCal
Posts: 1,961
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