High level vs. Low level Ouput from HU, the X3, & wiring confusion?

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

Sorry you had a migraine darkrider01..hope you are feeling better. Thank you too for your input! It all makes sense on the sub amps!
Couple more q's:

1. Is a 250 Amp circuit breaker right for the battery side? I think I computed 280 amps on 3400 total watts. But should be ok, right?

2. Will you be using the Rockford Fosgate PEQX3 for your amps. Think it is necessary? Seems this is a 0-18 Bass Boost. Also would you get this and put in line from the HU to the360 to turn down bass when it is too high for a particular song? EFX RLC by Scosche Universal Bass Remote Level Control Knob
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...y-Scosche.html

3. Why do you have a 4 channel amp just for your tweeters? I was only going to get a T400-2. Is it because you are only using 1/2 ir 200 watts?

4. I am going to be running HAT Clarus for front and rears. I checked and the tweeters are only 20 Watt max. So why do we need a 400 watt amp? To run active do we need to put anything else in line from the speaker wire to the tweets to protect them from blowing?

5. Maybe I only need the T-800 like you for the front mids and rears. Maybe 1000W is overkill and unnecessary and can only help blow the speakers. See these specs and see if maybe 800 is better:

Fronts: Clarus C61-2
Continuous 120 watts
Peak 250 watts
Recommended 25-175 watts
Pnom Input (No crossover) 60 watts
Pmax Input (No crossover) 120 watts

Rears: Imagine I69-2
Continuous 100 watts
Peak 230 watts
Recommended 20-150 watts

1. 325A is the max recommended fuse size for #1/0 wire. Check out these distribution blocks here. They will allow you to go with 2 runs of #1/0 if you are getting too much voltage drop with a single run. Those are the blocks I am using. 250A should be enough. Honestly, 200A would probably be enough.

2. Don't do it. It's part of the beauty of the 3Sixty.3. The 2 knobs on the 3Sixty.3's controller can be configured for several different combinations. In my system, the left knob is subwoofer level, the right knob is PunchEQ. There will be no need for an extra controller.

3. I have a T400-4 because I previously had the T400-4 running my fronts and rears. I didn't feel like it had enough power, so I bought the T800-4AD. I'm repurposing the T400-4 to run my tweeters. Also, I didn't want to throw too much power at my tweeters, and the T400-4 will allow me to run around 87W to each tweeter. The T400-2 might be too much power for them, and I didn't want to buy another amp.

4. For running active on those tweeters, you might want to look into a smaller amp. What exactly are the ratings on the tweeters? Are they 20W-75W max, or what? My T400-4 puts out roughly 73W per channel - my T2 tweeters are rated at 75W-150W max. Also, I bet those Clarus are going to sound insane!

5.You may want to go with a T800-4AD also. My T800-4AD birth sheet shows my amp putting out 187Wx4. My experience with my 3 amps is that the Power Series amps do around 122-124% rated power.

Here is a cool site that explains wiring for car audio. It's a pretty good resource if you're not very familiar with sizing wire, etc.
http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm

[CamaroFTW]

1. OK will switch to the disty blocks you are using. Are those for postive or grounds? But I thought one of the 1/0 inputs for the connection to the capacitor from each disty block?
2. OK sold! lol
3. Trying to find out the wattage of the tweets. Not posted anywhere I can find. So you are running straight from your 400 amp to the tweets. No fear of blowing them?

One new question. Every high end brand recommends the tweeter be instalelled 8-12 max inches from the mid. With the Camaro pod it is more like 36". What do you think about that? Have you considerd drilling a hole and mount your tweeter slightly above the mid?

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

1. OK will switch to the disty blocks you are using. Are those for postive or grounds? But I thought one of the 1/0 inputs for the connection to the capacitor from each disty block?
2. OK sold! lol
3. Trying to find out the wattage of the tweets. Not posted anywhere I can find. So you are running straight from your 400 amp to the tweets. No fear of blowing them?

One new question. Every high end brand recommends the tweeter be instalelled 8-12 max inches from the mid. With the Camaro pod it is more like 36". What do you think about that? Have you considerd drilling a hole and mount your tweeter slightly above the mid?

1. The distribution blocks are 2 x 1/0 input, and 4 x 4 Ga. output. I actually bought 2 of these because I like the chrome finish over the gold. I have 4 Ga. running from each dist. block to the cap.

2.

3. My T400-4 puts out 73W x 4 (I typo'd earlier when I said 87Wx4). I will be running 73W to each of the two tweeters, and just have 2 channels unused. 73W is a little less than I'd like, but it should be fine. At least that is what I'm hoping for.

I didn't consider relocating the tweeter because I prefer the stock (sleeper) look. If I abandoned the stock look, I'd probably be running a lot more stuff.

[CamaroFTW]

OK I am going to put my cap on the 1/0 input on each of these since I will have 4 amps. OK?

Once I find out the range of these C1 Clarus Tweeters I will adjust the amp down to appropriate. Then I think I am getting all my ducks in a row! Still undecided with the Onstar but may do my center channel idea. Will test it at least.

jeepguy_1980 saved me alot on all that wire and stuff from knokonceptz. They already shipped all that stuff today and saved almost $200 on all that. Thanks Jeepguy!

[CamaroFTW]

Got a reply already from Hybrid Audio (impressive speed!). I was also asking how I coudl buy without crossovers since I dont need them:

"Klifton Keplinger replied:
Don't worry too much about the power. As long as it's installed, crossed over and tuned properly, you'll be fine. We have 750 watts per front stage speaker in our demo car, but of course the input gains are all the way down and everything is properly accounted for. It'll definitely get as loud as you could possibly want it, but no damage is done to the speakers simply because the power is "available". -- Think of your car, most cars will do over the speed limit at any given time... because a car can go 200 MPH doesn't mean it's violating anything by doing 70 MPH in a 70 MPH zone.

We do not offer the Clarus as a broken up set, and even if we did, it'd be as much as it is for the full set. There's no real advantage. You could probably sell the crossovers fairly easily though.

When setup active, we do suggest the PTC75, which is a thermal protection device. (It simply goes in-line, when it overheats it breaks the circuit, and reconnects when it cools down). They are $15.99/each (you'll need two for one set of tweeters)."

Good to know stuff..will order 2 of these.

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

OK I am going to put my cap on the 1/0 input on each of these since I will have 4 amps. OK?

Once I find out the range of these C1 Clarus Tweeters I will adjust the amp down to appropriate. Then I think I am getting all my ducks in a row! Still undecided with the Onstar but may do my center channel idea. Will test it at least.

jeepguy_1980 saved me alot on all that wire and stuff from knokonceptz. They already shipped all that stuff today and saved almost $200 on all that. Thanks Jeepguy!

Oh yeah. I was just saying that is where my cap was. The cap can be on any of the connections.

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

Got a reply already from Hybrid Audio (impressive speed!). I was also asking how I coudl buy without crossovers since I dont need them:

"Klifton Keplinger replied:
Don't worry too much about the power. As long as it's installed, crossed over and tuned properly, you'll be fine. We have 750 watts per front stage speaker in our demo car, but of course the input gains are all the way down and everything is properly accounted for. It'll definitely get as loud as you could possibly want it, but no damage is done to the speakers simply because the power is "available". -- Think of your car, most cars will do over the speed limit at any given time... because a car can go 200 MPH doesn't mean it's violating anything by doing 70 MPH in a 70 MPH zone.

We do not offer the Clarus as a broken up set, and even if we did, it'd be as much as it is for the full set. There's no real advantage. You could probably sell the crossovers fairly easily though.

When setup active, we do suggest the PTC75, which is a thermal protection device. (It simply goes in-line, when it overheats it breaks the circuit, and reconnects when it cools down). They are $15.99/each (you'll need two for one set of tweeters)."

Good to know stuff..will order 2 of these.

That is the best analogy I have ever heard for amp-to-speaker power relation.

[CamaroFTW]

The good news is my new 300 Amp alternator is ordered!


https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2010~...6-300-spx.html

Battery already has tracking. So things are starting to get in place!

[darkrider01]

Originally Posted by CamaroFTW

The good news is my new 300 Amp alternator is ordered!


https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/2010~...6-300-spx.html

Battery already has tracking. So things are starting to get in place!

If I have voltage issues once I get everything connected up this weekend (T400-4 is disconnected), I'll be ordering the exact same unit, though I might go with the blue

DC Power = win.

[CamaroFTW]

Yeah all the colors look nice I just did not want a yellow one in there..dont think the yellow would have matched and would have looked odd. Black is always safe.