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#113 | |
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OFF THE CHAIN
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#114 | |
![]() Drives: 2012 Camaro 1LT Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Seattle
Posts: 71
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Post them pics!!!! =) |
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#115 | |
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Older than I look....
Drives: 2010 VR Camaro 2SS/RS LS3 Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Washington
Posts: 6,481
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High Heels and Fast Wheels!!
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#116 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 12 2SS/RS Transformer, 11 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 476
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#117 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 12 2SS/RS Transformer, 11 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 476
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![]() If we can't find anyone that can do the "J" pipe solution, we are gonna just remove the Flowmasters and look into Magnaflow or Solo with the "J" pipes already attached. If that is the case, I guess we will be selling a Flowmaster catback exhaust cheap :( |
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#118 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 12 2SS/RS Transformer, 11 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 476
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#119 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 2SS Black Camaro Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: PORT ORCHARD, WA
Posts: 734
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Clear Image Automotive.com in Kent installed my 3" Magna Flow system on my ride. Nice deep sound until up put the pedal to the floor. Ask for Dan.
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#120 |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 12 2SS/RS Transformer, 11 2LT/RS Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Bellevue, WA
Posts: 476
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#121 | |
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Autoboticus Roboticus
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Though, the tune I'm getting has other parameters tuned as well. I was doing research on the tune before I decided to go with it, and I didn't see anything about the "lifter noise" until you mentioned it. I saw that the stock L99 lifters had a TSB about them being noisy.. I've only noticed a slight ticking noise from them as the car is now. Maybe I should get the TSB done before I do the tune? I hadn't planned on immediately rebuilding the valve train. But, a cam and LS3 conversion is a mod that I plan on doing down the road a little ways. I'm certainly open to some suggestions. I'm not going to be going with forced induction, but definitely going to be adding long tube headers w/ high-flow cats and an X-pipe. But, now that you mention the stock lifters are going to be really noisy if AFM is tuned out, maybe I'll do the cam / LS3 conversion before headers? I'd appreciate some advice with the order in which I do some mods. Thanks Tim!
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#122 |
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Raised by Wolves
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Here's a picture of what 2 years on eastern WA highways will do to your paint. I took the quarter flares off the front because the 2-sided tape had gone all one-sided. Gonna recoat the bottoms with rhino-liner or something this time. I am just glad I installed them because that's all damage that would have been happening all down the side of my car!
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#123 | |
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OFF THE CHAIN
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It get's tricky and more expensive if you do things out of order, I.E LS3 conversion first then cam and FI. I would personally do it differently if given a second chance. I would definitely do a cam and LS3 conversion in one fell swoop. Then you can worry about Header, X Pipe & FI down the road without pulling the heads off and the whole top end and front end, you can also install a stall convertor while you are in there and obviously pin the crank while doing the cam. There is a guy who ports heads also in Vancouver Wa the name escapes me for the moment but i'll remember it down the road. Delete DOD, Delete AFM, Cam, Valvetrain (Lifters, Rockers, Push Rods, Springs) Timing Chain & Gears, Stall Convertor, heads ported & polished, do this first for around 5k to 6k if someone else does it. If you do it then around 3800 or 4500 depending on cam grind and other parameters? It all depends on what you want to do!
I would also check what kind of grind you are looking for as far as lope with a cam, mine is very street able and unnoticeable when warm like others where they have a serious lope! The ultimate choice is up to you in what you are looking for... Quote:
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#124 | |
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Autoboticus Roboticus
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That said, what I plan for my car: 1: Needs to be able to be at home driving on the road as a daily driver and be able to handle stop & go traffic. 2: Obviously, I want better performance, more power, better suspension. But, I'm not going to go to the extreme end of things in the areas that I am improving. IE: I want more power, but not going with forced induction. (but I do plan on headers and eventually a cam) I'm going to lower the car and do some suspension work, but probably not going to go with coilovers. (but I will put in new springs, sway bars, frame stiffeners, and poly bushings) I'll probably get slotted and drilled rotors at some point, but not going to shell out $4k for a 6-piston brake upgrade. I do have an idea of where I want to end up. But, I'm up for suggestions on the order of which mods to do to get there.
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#125 |
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Autoboticus Roboticus
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Well, here's an option to actually DELETE the DOD/AFM, rather than only having a tune disable it via the ECM. (includes LS7 lifters)
http://texas-speed.com/p-717-dod-afm-delete-kit.aspx
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#126 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 Camaro Auto 2SS/RS Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Wauconda, IL
Posts: 878
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Mind if I ask really quick why you've ruled out FI? Is it a personaly preference? Just to give you my experience I started with a CAI, Longtubes and a Maggie and it drove like stock. The only difference was when I started to get on it a little and started getting into the boost. That's when it would really take off. I almost miss those days because I still had some decent traction back in the low 500rwhp range lol.
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Built by Jannetty Racing
670rwhp/649rwtq...Scariness to be determined. Jannety Racing forged 416. TVS2300 Supercharger w/Maggie Max Stage 2, 3.6 Pulley, Innovators West 8 rib conversion, OD rear Cog belt drive. Jannetty Racing Rough Idle Cam, LS3 Conversion. Jannetty Racing built 6l80e Trans, Jannetty Racing Custom Converter, Built rear diff w/ 3.45 gears, DSS driveshaft and 1400 hp axles. ADM Twin Pump Fuel System, ADM CAI, Dynatech 1 7/8" Coated Headers, Borla "S" Catback. Custom 18" Forgestar F14's, Nitto 305/45-18 DR's |
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