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#29 |
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there are tons of threads on this with pics of how to do it. use the search button
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#30 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS RS M6 CGM/Black Rally Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 5,098
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I changed the Diff and Trans fluids around 2K miles. Whether my imagination trying to justify spending the money or not, but it did seem to make a noticable difference.
Having said that… I read the discoloration in the fluid (not sure if it was referring to Diff or Trans fluid) was due to a coating on the parts that wears off during break-in. It’s harmless and the fluid will appear “normal” with continued driving. I’m not disputing if you found visable shavings, and y’all are wayyyy more knowledgable about these cars and engines than I am. Maybe someone can chime in and confirm or correct me?
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#31 | |
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Quote:
Mobil 1 Royal Purple Amsoil Redline Something else
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2022 Black ZL1
RotoFab CAI, AWE Touring Edition Cat Back Exhaust. 665 Crank hp. est. and 660 Crank ft. lbs. est. Never been Dynoed |
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#32 |
![]() Drives: 3... (4 now!) camaros and counting Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: NW
Posts: 65
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Here is what I found at 988 miles...I was doing an oil change and decided to check the diff while I was there.
There are as many opinions as people....do what you feel is needed.
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1978 Type LT, 1981 Z28 project, 1999 Hugger Orange V-6 Car, 2010 2LT RS is FINALLY HERE!
68 Chevelle, 98 Z71, couple harleys |
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#33 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2SS RS M6 CGM/Black Rally Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Austin TX
Posts: 5,098
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Quote:
I did some homework on the others listed, but in the end wasn't convinced the marketing claims were entirely valid, nor higher cost was justified for how I drive. If my car went to the track.. maybe I would have given them more consideration.
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#34 |
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Thanks!
I'm leaning towards the Amsoil, I've always used their oil in My race bikes for 15+ years now and never had an engine failure. I'm just not sure about their transmission stuff?
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2022 Black ZL1
RotoFab CAI, AWE Touring Edition Cat Back Exhaust. 665 Crank hp. est. and 660 Crank ft. lbs. est. Never been Dynoed |
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#35 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2010 SS , 1970 Z-28, 2002 Avalanche Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 2,524
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I changed mine @ 980 miles and used Royal Purple and now have 5600 miles and the rear end works great, don't have the problem some people talk about with only one wheel spinning. Does not matter if I am on the rode or track, both tires hook up.
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IF IT'S WORTH HAVING, IT'S WORTH WAITING FOR!!!! (AND IT WAS)
434RWHP/403RWTQ Livernois Motorsports 2C Cam kit Kooks 1 7/8 LT Headers/Hi-Flo Cats/Corsa Exhaust Roto-Fab CAI / Port Intake Precission 2400/2800 Converter/3.73 AAM gears Livernois Motorsports Tune Best time: 11.97 @ 117 MPH |
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#36 |
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Camaro SL,UTs
Drives: 2010 Camaro SS/RS #16429 Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: South Jordan, UT
Posts: 7,357
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The silver fluid is an additive that is part of the GM diff fluid. It is not metal or metal shavings. FYI.
Still doesn't hurt to change it. But don't think or let anybody tell you that you have metal shavings in your diff. If you truly do have metal shavings after only 1500 miles you have a serious problem.
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#37 |
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Grrr!!!
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If it's magnetic...it's metal shavings.
Shavings are normal on new gears. You are always going to have shavings with metal on metal contact. Once the surfaces smooth out, and 'highs and lows' are worn down, the oil film will start letting the surfaces slide with out wear. Think of it like new rings and cylinder bore. You change the motor oil and filter at 550 miles for the same reason. The oil is not broken down. It the particles in the oil you are trying to get rid of. I did the tranny (LS3) at 1500. You would be floored at all the shavings you get.
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Rules for ordering a car.
1. Dealers are liars 2. Buy off the lot 3. See rule #1 |
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#38 | |
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Jan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT Red Jewel tintcoat Join Date: May 2010
Location: Springfield, TN
Posts: 16,241
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Quote:
Mike (hubby) says a lot of the stuff recommended in the owners manual is just trying to make $ for the dealerships. I don't want to tear up my baby. Help please!
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#39 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: '15 SS 1LE, '69 Z28 drag car Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Mich
Posts: 4,482
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Quote:
It's a very easy change, just need 1 qt of the gear lube and 1 LS additive bottle from a dealer. Differentials on cars and trucks are all different. Some are open or lockers with no clutches. Those hardly create any debris, and a synthetic lube in those can last 100K + miles. (unless heavy towing). Others, like the Camaro, have a clutch type limited slip unit. Those clutches are always working on every drive. The clutch plates shed off a lot of material as they wear. Especially as they are breaking in. Which is why the owner's manual has you change it at 1500, then not so often after that. |
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#40 | |
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Retired Navy
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: NW of DFW
Posts: 915
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Quote:
Old fluid in the bottle on the left with 20,000 miles on it. New that went in on the right.
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#41 |
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Jan
Drives: 2010 Camaro 1LT Red Jewel tintcoat Join Date: May 2010
Location: Springfield, TN
Posts: 16,241
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Now he says that mine is an automatic so I don't have a clutch to create the debris. What say you to that?????????????????
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#42 | |
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Dances With Mustangs
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Quote:
If you don't change the fluid the diff will still work and work for a long time. However those particles that are in the fluid get picked up and wash through the gears which can cause them to wear faster than they would otherwise. If you're racing then you should definitely change the diff fluid. In fact, according to GM you should change it every 6 hours of racing because the high heat in the differential causes the oil to break down much much sooner than under normal everyday driving. There's also the benefit of the more "expensive" and higher quality oils reducing friction in the diff which not only lowers resistance and allows more power to get to the wheels, but that also lowers the heat and helps the gears last longer. By "more expensive" we're talking maybe $20 for a bottle? It really isn't expensive at all and if you race, it's actually pretty cheap insurance to protect that part of the car.
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