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Old 12-31-2012, 07:59 PM   #29
Bradrulz

 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
I would do the drill mod. Remove the connection to the passenger side valve cover, use a plyers or vicegrips and twist and pull it up and out and drill the top and bottom small holes to 7/64" and then you wont have the pressure building up.

Let me know if you need more details.

I am going to do this later this weeks. Bought a spare part in case something gets messed up removing it.
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Old 01-01-2013, 04:45 PM   #30
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I think I'm going to drill the holes. I saw the link to the thread with it. Hopefully I can find the piece and not break it
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:15 PM   #31
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I think it always a good idea to have stock parts on hand any time you modify a stock part for the mod.

SC2150, maybe you should include the modified stock parts in your shipping kit if this is a known issue.
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Old 01-01-2013, 05:53 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by speedygonzales View Post
As I mentioned earlier, check the breather to see if the check valve is functioning. It's the only explanation for the oil getting into the breather as it should only allow air into the valve cover and not out.

Understand?

It is either not working or is not there at all.
How do you check just put my hand over the breather while the car is on and feel if air comes out?
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Old 01-01-2013, 10:19 PM   #33
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OK...Orifice has been drilled. Little worried because when I first started the car I thought it was going to die twice (Check Engine Light came on) so I turned it off. Then I turned it on again and just let it sit for like 5-10 minutes and it seemed solid but the CEL is still on...Ill see how it goes on my drive to work tomorrow and a possible stop at autozone


For anyone as dumb as I was...The holder to the orifice has a spring clip that you move to the left and pull off. Then you can get some vice grips and pull it off and drill it.









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Old 01-02-2013, 06:13 AM   #34
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Really?????????

A check valve will pass something one way and not the other way. In this case air. So pressure it one way and vacuum the other way.

In other words blow in it and then suck on it.
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Old 01-02-2013, 11:56 AM   #35
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CEL is gone. When I get home today Ill check the check valve. (Ill start with the blow, because Im not thrilled about sucking some oil)
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Old 01-02-2013, 08:27 PM   #36
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It can take up to 100 miles of driving, or several startups for the ECU to adapt to the new flow.

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Old 01-03-2013, 01:31 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SC2150 View Post
I would do the drill mod. Remove the connection to the passenger side valve cover, use a plyers or vicegrips and twist and pull it up and out and drill the top and bottom small holes to 7/64" and then you wont have the pressure building up.

Let me know if you need more details.

I checked the orifice and it was not plugged at all. Was still going to drill out but need to get a 7/64 bit.
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Old 01-03-2013, 01:43 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by Bradrulz View Post
I checked the orifice and it was not plugged at all. Was still going to drill out but need to get a 7/64 bit.
Yes mine wasnt plugged but when I blew through it stuff definitely came out
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Old 01-03-2013, 08:52 PM   #39
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I drilled the wholes out to 7/64 this afternoon.
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Old 01-04-2013, 02:11 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by speedygonzales View Post
A check valve will pass something one way and not the other way. In this case air. So pressure it one way and vacuum the other way.

In other words blow in it and then suck on it.
So I checked the breather after about 150 miles and it didn't have much oil residue on it but its too early to tell.

I placed the breather above by head like as if it was screwed on and it was super easy to suck. Then I blew and I feel like some of the air went through but it was a million times easier to suck then to blow.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:13 AM   #41
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it was a million times easier to suck then to blow.
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Old 01-04-2013, 03:53 AM   #42
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Yea I love how that description came out....
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