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#100 | |
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#101 |
![]() Drives: Black 2011 Camaro 2LS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 249
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Very nice Camaro, by the way. Man, my first car was a 65 Chrysler Newport that needed tons of work. Lucky bastard.
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#102 | |
![]() Drives: 2014 2ss/RS 5th gen Camaro #2 Join Date: May 2012
Location: arkansas
Posts: 496
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![]() Oh yea it's not going to have a back seat
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#103 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2012 LT RS Camaro Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Bentonville, Arkansas
Posts: 1,249
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I have a daughter too.
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#104 |
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Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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I just read about 20 posts that say "probably" the battery
Instead of guessing about the battery, put a volt meter on it and see what is really is. Might be fine If so, then check the battery connections, clean the terminals, and connectors, re-install, and try starting again If the shop tells you it's a battery and it needs replacement, ask them what the voltage of your "bad" battery is. No matter what they tell you, if it's "bad" tell them to show you, with a volt meter. It may not be perfectly the same as what they told you, that's OK. But if the battery shows full charge, see if the car will start If it does, it is possible you had a dirty/loose terminal, and they are trying to rip you off. be sure it's your original battery before you go off half-****ed, but shady shops are still out there You have a very straightforward problem that they can diagnose very easily
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#105 | |
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Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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Better get her Triple-A too; those Fiats never had a good rep
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#106 | |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2021 1LE Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: N'Awlinz
Posts: 6,315
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A volt meter is NOT a good test for batteries, they need to have a load placed on them to determine their serviceability. |
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#107 | |
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Buick 455 Fan
Drives: 1970 Buick, 2012 1SS LS3 Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Boston MA
Posts: 5,957
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In practical application over twenty five years of playing with old piece of shit cars, a volt meter has always told me the voltage. Yes, that doesn't always mean the car will start with 12v but it starts me off in a direction to diagnose the problem. In the case of a 12v battery and the car won't start, I turn on the lights and crank the engine for example. Very rarely have I encountered solenoid click+fully charged battery that wasn't a bad electrical connection On a new car, if my new car's new battery showed the right charge and the solenoid clicked I'd start looking elsewhere for my 'simplest solution', whereas if the battery was low, I'd start checking my charging system connections, and charge the battery. If the battery was at full charge, and the lights dimmed on cranking, yes, I'd have the battery load tested ![]() In the case of the OPs car, seems he's getting a solenoid click, and an easy first test with tools people gave easy access to is, well, the meter. Yes, I agree it is a coarse test
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#108 | |
![]() Drives: 2014 2ss/RS 5th gen Camaro #2 Join Date: May 2012
Location: arkansas
Posts: 496
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