06-25-2013, 08:35 PM | #15 |
Drives: Cyber Gray 2011 2LT Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kern County, CA
Posts: 168
|
Yes I use jack stands. Make sure you have the right tools and I strongly suggest another pair of hands. So far it feels great, we'll see how it performs at the track this weekend.
|
06-25-2013, 08:39 PM | #16 |
Drives: Cyber Gray 2011 2LT Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kern County, CA
Posts: 168
|
Took the wheels off, then I use a large screw driver from under the car to pry at the plate, then a friend used a crowbar to pry from the wheel well and used a hammer for the extra force/vibrations on the crowbar.
Screw driver slipped and I ended up punching the car at almost full power a couple times. Took some effort to get the bolts started, then took a lot of effort to get the driver side bolt in and out because of the washer fluid bottle. |
06-25-2013, 11:55 PM | #17 | ||
Drives: 2010 SS L99 Inferno Orange Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Texas Coast
Posts: 1,167
|
Quote:
Quote:
Did you take out the axle back exhaust too? Seems like it would have to come out! What all did you take loose to lower the cradle? Thanks for the info! |
||
06-26-2013, 08:28 AM | #18 |
Choke on that causality!
Drives: 2010 2SS/RS Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 645
|
"took a lot of effort to get the driver side bolt in and out because of the washer fluid bottle."
Yes it is kind of a pain, but if you move the wheel or arm back and forth a bit it helps. I used a visegrip to turn the bolt out (the last little bit) and did the same to get it started in again.
__________________
Edelbrock EForce - Stainless Works Headers - BMR Sways & Arms & Toe Links & Control Arm Bushings & End Links - Rotofab CAI - Assorted Interior, Exterior, Underhood Bling - Red Jewel Stripes & Full Body Clear - Lexani LX15 Wheels - JRE Fuel Rail Upgrade - Kenne Bell BAP - Heartthrob XPipe - Elite Catch Can - Pedders Cradle & Front Arm Bushings - Hotchkis Strut Brace - MSD Wires - Carbotech Brakes - DSS 1000HP Axles & Driveshaft - Mickey Thompson Tires - Halo Harness - AutoMeter A/F, Boost, Fuel Pressure Gauges - Whats Next?
|
06-26-2013, 10:13 AM | #19 |
Drives: '69 SS Convertible Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 7,111
|
The cradle has 4 bolts holding it in. For some reason 23mm socket is what I remember. I also left my exhaust on which is why id did the side to side method of installing the bushing inserts.
For me, I found the two hammer solution the easiest to get the plates off. About 3 good blows of the hammer and they popped off. Just keep an eye out on where it goes flying to because you might loose it if not.
__________________
-2010 Camaro 2SS | M6 | VR w/White Stripes | 1 3/4" KOOKS - 3" Magnaflow | LPE 3.91 gears | ADM tuned | Halltech w/ADM Scoop | Spohn/BMR Trailing Arm/Toe Rod | BC Coilovers| Pedders FE4 ZL1 swaybars | Cradle/Diff/Radius Rod bushings | VMax TB | Morimoto Projectors | MGW shifter | Red Calipers
Build Journal |
06-26-2013, 01:56 PM | #20 |
Drives: Camaro Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Inglewood
Posts: 532
|
This install is fairly simple on a lift. Never done it on the ground but i can't see it being too bad.
The bolts will typically come off with a good impact gun. We have had some east coast cars require me to break out my large breaker bar. You will get several large pops out of it, but keep going, these are torque to yield bolts and the factory uses a lot of locktight on them. Hopefully you've remembered to support the cradle We've found the easiest way to get the plates off is with a well placed pry bar, you wanna go inside the whole and catch the edge with the pry bar, and then go nuts. It will take more force than you think, but the only thing you can really hurt is yourself, so be careful, when they let go they come out with a vengeance. When doing the inserts you typically do not need to remove the exhaust, just the back hangers, and that should give you enough room to slide the inserts in. When your ready to put everything back together, make sure you clean the bolts thoroughly and the bolts holes as best you can. Reapply blue locktight, and set your impact gun to max. Please star patern the cradle back in, or you might run into problems. There is no specific torque spec on these, since its a torque to yield sequence. But no less than 100ft/lbs and no more than 200ft/lbs. I know this is a large range, but there isn't much rocket science to these, and your using stretchy bolts. We have never had a problem or failure with this method, and we've done hundreds of cars with this method. Camaro's, G8's and GTO's all virtually the same setup. Please feel free to give us a call with any questions. Thanks Mike Haddad 310-412-8032 |
06-26-2013, 02:21 PM | #21 |
Drives: 2013 VR ZL1 Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: MN
Posts: 34
|
Good info Mike.
If I'm just installing the rear sub-frame inserts is there any need for an alignment? |
06-26-2013, 03:22 PM | #22 |
This might be more info than you need for now but you'll get the picture
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=289431 |
|
06-26-2013, 03:25 PM | #23 |
06-26-2013, 03:31 PM | #24 | |||
Drives: Cyber Gray 2011 2LT Camaro Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Kern County, CA
Posts: 168
|
Quote:
It is held up with four 24mm bolts that take a good amount of elbow grease to get out. If you don't have air tools like me, make sure you have a breaker bar or nice long torque wrench so you can get some good leverage on the bolts. Quote:
Quote:
|
|||
06-26-2013, 09:14 PM | #25 | |
Drives: Camaro Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Inglewood
Posts: 532
|
Quote:
The worst case scenario in alignment change would be in-perceivable. And would equate to fractions of a degree. |
|
06-26-2013, 10:07 PM | #26 |
Drives: 2010 SS L99 Inferno Orange Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Texas Coast
Posts: 1,167
|
Thanks for the info OP! Great input from Haddad Motorsports and others!!
|
|
|
|
|