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#113 |
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Booooosted.
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Ok. Will do. In the meantime I"m going to bore the cylinders myself. I have a dremell tool with a sanding thingy.
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#114 |
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V8 Lounge member #2
Drives: 2001 Ws6 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Burbank,IL
Posts: 6,373
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PQ, you cant really do it yourself bud, I mean you can BUT a machine shop needs to check the bores and correctly measure them. I too wish it was that easy but to do it right, its really a machine shop's job. They also need to clean all the oil and coolant galleys too. Just saying.
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2001 ws6, 40k miles, Ls3 416 stroker, short block built by PER the rest by me. LPE Ls3 heads milled to 12-1 comp, FAST 102, NW 102, kooks 2", dual DMH cutouts, Magnaflow C/B, BTR cam + springs. Full UMI suspension.
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#115 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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#116 | ||
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Booooosted.
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![]() I suppose I can have it done here. What I need to do is price the cost of the forged stroker kit, the Cam and lifters, springs and such, and what someone would charge me to bore and do the block and see how much I'd save that way. Plus the head work if any. So, Chris, what do you think? Sure, I won't be a solid as ordering the Pro Series long block 419 but I could get something done much sooner. Quote:
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#117 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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#118 |
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Booooosted.
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If I do something temporary it will need to either be throw it back together the way it is with a new cam and hope it lasts long enough. Or at least be cost effective enough to do while I wait for funds.
If I'm going to have the block done I might as well rebuild it to last. |
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#119 |
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Booooosted.
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Well you use spray as well. So you think that the 2300 maggie is slower on a 419 than on a 376 without spray even if the boost levels are the same? Or are you saying that you can't get the boost up with the maggie on the bigger bore?
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#120 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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#121 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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The more cubes the faster the blower has to spin to produce equal boost as on a 376. You'll get more HP bc of the cubes but it doesn't seem to translate on the track. Your last statement is correct. If you want big boost you'll push the blower out of its efficiency zone and it'll be counter productive. |
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#122 | |
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Booooosted.
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Well no wonder. I do not have the supporting mods (including tranny) to run 9s. If I could get just into the 10s I'd be perfectly happy. I think the Maggie could push 10-12 psi into the 419 with it stroked down to say 10.2-1 compression? It would be super safe for the build I'd think and should get me 10s. Or no? |
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#123 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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I went 10.99 at 10 psi with just headers and a cold air. If I were you I'd spend my money on good, forged 376 parts and just bump the boost up. Remember, once you start spinning the blower faster you'll need at min and 8 rib set up. Another $1500. Use the is rear cogs with a 3.6 pulley and a good cam, you'll make a safe 600 rwhp, safe for your trans and drivetrain, and have a 10 second car without breaking the bank. |
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#124 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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#125 | |
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Booooosted.
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I'll hit up Chris and see what he thinks. 10 psi even with a rear cog drive required an 8 rib set? I thought a JRE tensioner (which I have) and a 3.2 would get that?
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#126 | |
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Account Suspended
Drives: 2010 Camaro Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Sandy Hook, CT
Posts: 11,926
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Here's an example. With a 3.2 my car made 18 psi but it wasn't consistent due to slippage. With a 3.4 the boost fell to 16psi but the car was faster on the track. I made a few passes with each the same day at the track. A 3.2 6 rib pulley is as good as a kick in the nuts. Also, at 10 psi you'll start, it's not bad at this point, to see slippage on the rear pulleys. |
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