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Old 11-11-2013, 09:58 PM   #7127
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Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO View Post
well i think he figured it out, took about an hour of troubleshooting but he helped figure it out
That's awesome
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Old 11-12-2013, 09:34 AM   #7128
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Hey guys...what are your opinions on a good set of drag radials to get, I still have my stock rims and would like to get a set for the rear, and not sure what brand or type to go with.

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Old 11-12-2013, 10:09 AM   #7129
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Hey guys...what are your opinions on a good set of drag radials to get, I still have my stock rims and would like to get a set for the rear, and not sure what brand or type to go with.

I thought you had DRs on your car already? I have my eyes on the MT street radials, but they only go up to a 17" rim IIRC. I'm not sure what else people run on the stock rims besides NT05R. The rest of these drag freaks will know a lot more than I do.
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Old 11-12-2013, 10:42 AM   #7130
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Nope...just regular tires right now.
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Old 11-12-2013, 01:35 PM   #7131
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V8 bolt on help desk! Now available!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jman17 View Post
Hey guys...what are your opinions on a good set of drag radials to get, I still have my stock rims and would like to get a set for the rear, and not sure what brand or type to go with.

Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial come in a 305/35r20 I've never ran them but heard their a good tire to run on the track. Most people drop down to an 18" rim and get a set of MT's. But I just run my stock setup with Nitto NT05r.
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Old 11-12-2013, 02:29 PM   #7132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SolomonAKOO View Post
Mickey Thompson ET Street Radial come in a 305/35r20 I've never ran them but heard their a good tire to run on the track. Most people drop down to an 18" rim and get a set of MT's. But I just run my stock setup with Nitto NT05r.

Thanks. That's what I want to do, just run them on my stock rims since they are just sitting around.
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Old 11-12-2013, 03:55 PM   #7133
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Run them at ~23\25lbs around town and them down to ~16psi at the track.
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Old 11-12-2013, 06:49 PM   #7134
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OK, the C6 Grand Sport comes with a dry sump oiling system for the LS3 stock, how difficult is that to retrofit to a non DSOS LS3 or is there an aftermarket DSOS that is better?

Yes, I am thinking of cracking the motor and if I am going to do it I am going to go whole hog so I am gathering ideas.

T.
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The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:03 PM   #7135
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I've thought about the GS dry sump system myself. I'm curious myself.

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Old 11-12-2013, 07:19 PM   #7136
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Iirc, It needs a longer crank snout. Sorry fellas.

Tbone all you need is a good melling and a better oilpan for what you use it for.

So cam I gonna get my hands on this cracking motor stuff? Hu? Hu? Can I? I will work for beer ( but not during installs) and concerts. Lol
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:30 PM   #7137
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Which means changing the whole crank? Are there true benefits to going dry sump or as you say just changing to the Melling and a better oil pan would be just as good. I am guessing some sort of baffling type insert into the pan is what you are referring to.

Because if I had to change the crank that could mean changing out to something bigger right?? like Stroking it? Hmmmmmmm.

I am also investigating oil coolers, trans coolers, bigger rad, gears, tru trac, and a few other tings......

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:38 PM   #7138
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Quote:
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Which means changing the whole crank?
Yes different crank
Are there true benefits to going dry sump or as you say just changing to the Melling and a better oil pan would be just as good.
Well it does a better job than the factory stuff for that type of use like autoxing.
I am guessing some sort of baffling type insert into the pan is what you are referring to.
Yes with trap doors and diverters for the oil. Improved racing has some good ones.

Because if I had to change the crank that could mean changing out to something bigger right?? like Stroking it?

Not necessarily bigger but more for what YOU use it for, I think the rods would be ok but with better Rod bolts or forged IBeams and pistons, very light valve train. BUT definitely a badazz cam with badazz heads.

Hmmmmmmm.

I am also investigating oil coolers, trans coolers, bigger rad, gears, tru trac, and a few other tings......

T.
Well do you see oil spikes while racing?
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Old 11-12-2013, 07:57 PM   #7139
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Weeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll........... .. since I don't really have any gauges it has been a lot of this....



....which is why I am thinking if I am going to go forward I am going to to it right.

I just came across this place http://www.drysump.com/corvpan.htm
and spoke to Darren who says they can do it and have a whole system with stages from 1-4. Depending on how serious I want to get.

I used the power of the GOOGOO to find them. Hemp would be so proud of me.

T.
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"Horsepower is something that looks great in a Magazine article, but suspension is what actually gets you around the track fast.." Jack Olsen
The drag strip is like sniffing glue, it's cheap, it's a decent buzz, it doesn't last long and they are all the same.
Road racing is like China White Heroin, the buzz is stronger, the high lasts for hours, it's extremely addictive and they are all different.
I can't wait for my next
Track fix.
DA HAWKS OWN DA CUP!!!!!
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Old 11-12-2013, 08:08 PM   #7140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBone View Post
Which means changing the whole crank? Are there true benefits to going dry sump or as you say just changing to the Melling and a better oil pan would be just as good. I am guessing some sort of baffling type insert into the pan is what you are referring to.

Because if I had to change the crank that could mean changing out to something bigger right?? like Stroking it? Hmmmmmmm.

I am also investigating oil coolers, trans coolers, bigger rad, gears, tru trac, and a few other tings......

T.
I'm not looking at dry sump, but I have considered pulling the motor since I have fly cutting to do. It might be worth it to just pull it and rebuild the whole thing. A stroker rotating assembly would actually take care of my ptv clearance problems.

Decisions, decisions.
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