Front speaker and bluetooth (Phone) issue - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

DefusingDanger · 03-09-2014, 12:11 PM

Here is the set up. Focal front components w/crossover, LC2i wired into the rears, which run to an amp which then push the fronts.

Here is the problem. My system works GREAT! But now I cannot hear a caller via bluetooth. They can hear me, I can hear the radio, I can BT music from my phone but I cannot hear someone who calls me.

Any suggestions for a fix?

DefusingDanger · 03-09-2014, 10:08 PM

Surely with all the stereo upgrades folks have done, someone has run across this situation. Everything bluetooth works like it is supposed to except for hearing someone on the other end of the phone.

Any help is appreciated.

JimE · 03-10-2014, 09:13 PM

Has to do with the speaker wiring that was used, or in this case, not used I believe.

For example, the door chimes only use the rear tweeters (I think I got that right). So if you add new speakers and only use the woofer wire pairs in the rear, you lose the chimes. Same applies to the phone audio I do believe.

DefusingDanger · 03-11-2014, 06:35 PM

So how do I get the bluetooth phone audio to work? Can I run a jumper from the front audio out lines on the back of the deck to the rear audio outs?

JimE · 03-13-2014, 09:16 PM

I don't know which speakers are used for phone audio (likely the same as for OnStar). But you don't want to cross the front and rear channels.

DefusingDanger · 03-13-2014, 11:11 PM

Hmmm. Does anyone else have any suggestions?

darkrider01 · 03-15-2014, 10:05 AM

Actually, chimes come from the front drivers side woofer, as well as the voice from callers.

DefusingDanger · 03-15-2014, 08:30 PM

Yeah I gathered that. JimE was somewhat correct in concept just wrong on the rears being the source. What I need to know is if there is a easy-ish way to get input from the head unit to the front components via the amp other than running wires from the front to the LC2i which is in the back.

darkrider01 · 03-17-2014, 10:18 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DefusingDanger

Yeah I gathered that. JimE was somewhat correct in concept just wrong on the rears being the source. What I need to know is if there is a easy-ish way to get input from the head unit to the front components via the amp other than running wires from the front to the LC2i which is in the back.

Do/did you have the Boston system? I'm guessing that you must not as the Boston system has everything you need in the back. If not, you still have a couple of options, but I would say they are still going to be painful.

1. Swap front and rear outputs at head unit. You'll have to remove head unit to achieve this.

2. Run front left + and right + signals up to a 3-1/2" speaker in the center dash location. Using the positive from both front left and right will give you a "summed" center channel. You'll have to remove head unit to achieve this as well.

3. Install a PAC AA-GM44 behind the stock radio and run RCA's to your rear. Then you can use whatever signal you want for your amp. This can cause issues though as when you adjust your amp gain, your chimes will get much louder.

DefusingDanger · 03-17-2014, 07:05 PM

No BA.

Swapping outputs sounds perfect. Make the front the rear and vice versa. That would solve the problem.

Another option is to T-tap into front outputs and run speaker wire from the back of the head unit to the LC2i in the trunk.

Swapping sounds like the best at the moment.

Thanks

03-09-2014, 12:11 PM	#1
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	Front speaker and bluetooth (Phone) issue Here is the set up. Focal front components w/crossover, LC2i wired into the rears, which run to an amp which then push the fronts. Here is the problem. My system works GREAT! But now I cannot hear a caller via bluetooth. They can hear me, I can hear the radio, I can BT music from my phone but I cannot hear someone who calls me. Any suggestions for a fix? __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-09-2014, 10:08 PM	#2
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	Surely with all the stereo upgrades folks have done, someone has run across this situation. Everything bluetooth works like it is supposed to except for hearing someone on the other end of the phone. Any help is appreciated. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-11-2014, 06:35 PM	#4
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	So how do I get the bluetooth phone audio to work? Can I run a jumper from the front audio out lines on the back of the deck to the rear audio outs? __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-13-2014, 11:11 PM	#6
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	Hmmm. Does anyone else have any suggestions? __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-15-2014, 10:05 AM	#7
darkrider01 Aural Assault Vehicle Drives: 2010 IBM 2SS/RS, 2015 Sierra Denali Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Garner, NC Posts: 792	Actually, chimes come from the front drivers side woofer, as well as the voice from callers. __________________ My amplifier pop/click/thump solution thread Power Mods * K&N Typhoon CAI, Flowmaster American Thunder cat-back exhaust, Hurst Short Throw Shifter Exterior Mods * Black Phantom Grille * 22" T.I.S. 537MS wheels w/ Nitto INVO rubber * OEM body kit Suspension Mods * BC Racing Coilovers * Lakewood Strut Tower Brace Audio Mods * Stinger SPP 2250 Battery * Mosconi 6to8v8 w/ RCD * Pioneer AVH-X7500BT * Scosche Dash Kit * 2 - Mosconi AS200.4 * 2 - JL Audio 13W6v2 * Focal 165KRX2 Power (active) * Mosconi Gladen One 240.2 * Rockford Fosgate Power T1692

03-10-2014, 09:13 PM	#3
JimE Drives: 2013 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: St Louis, MO Posts: 3,087	Has to do with the speaker wiring that was used, or in this case, not used I believe. For example, the door chimes only use the rear tweeters (I think I got that right). So if you add new speakers and only use the woofer wire pairs in the rear, you lose the chimes. Same applies to the phone audio I do believe.

03-13-2014, 09:16 PM	#5
JimE Drives: 2013 2SS/RS/1LE Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: St Louis, MO Posts: 3,087	I don't know which speakers are used for phone audio (likely the same as for OnStar). But you don't want to cross the front and rear channels.

03-15-2014, 08:30 PM	#8
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	Yeah I gathered that. JimE was somewhat correct in concept just wrong on the rears being the source. What I need to know is if there is a easy-ish way to get input from the head unit to the front components via the amp other than running wires from the front to the LC2i which is in the back. __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"

03-17-2014, 07:05 PM	#10
DefusingDanger Drives: 2013 AGM 1SS/RS Join Date: May 2013 Location: USA Posts: 99	No BA. Swapping outputs sounds perfect. Make the front the rear and vice versa. That would solve the problem. Another option is to T-tap into front outputs and run speaker wire from the back of the head unit to the LC2i in the trunk. Swapping sounds like the best at the moment. Thanks __________________ EOD is "A science of vague assumptions, based on debatable figures taken from inconclusive experiments, performed with instruments of problematical accuracy, by persons with doubtful reliability and questionable mentality"