First day at track yesterday....

[GYac]

I am in the process of researching this clutch sep kit, going to be buying parts today. I love this site.

Tyler- PM sent

[Bad70supreme]

Good luck getting it worked out, I think I had more then a clutch issue with mine. My throwout bearing Went a 47k miles, and even with all the fluid changes my clutch would stick after a few runs. If you get it worked out it will be fun though.

[Bo White]

Mine will still do it when I push it hard at the track. I'm in the market now for a clutch because of that.

[Quick]

Ok guys ...I've been tinkering with cars for 50 years and I have to ask how does dirty fluid make a clutch pedal stick to the floor? I can see where a weak pressure plate would do this but dirty fluid? Enlighten me.

[Bo White]

Exactly lol. I feel the same way but dirty fluid is harder to move than clean fluid and these pressure plates are so border line in strength any little bit helps. Kind of like on the mechanical cable clutch with a corroded cable but not to that extreme.

[ytown87]

Guys there's nothing wrong with the car. I've had the same issue on the track and off. Went to a local dealership where most of the employees there race their cars as well. It's a common issue with these and other ls engine cars of the past. The cause is the stupid design from GM. The clutch lines are designed to be located around the transmission. Look at pics or get under your car. Because of this the clutch fluid is in essence boiling due to the heat coming from the tranny through the lines. The ONLY true fix is a kit (from Tick performance) that reroutes the lines away from the tranny. Changing the reservoir or fluid for a heavier DOT spec will only be band aid fixes. Unless you can get the kit to move the lines you will keep this issue. Until then you will have to let the car cool down significantly before your first and between runs.

I've also read you can upgrade the master slave cylinder with one that pushes more fluid through. There is also a return spring upgrade that is known to be a really good band aid fix and easy to do that should work almost permanently...see link to thread below
http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=141577

[GYac]

For now i've ordered the fluid relocation kit, i'm also looking into new clutches, lines, etc. Its just annoying, my car is basically pushing stock power and I may need to just do a new clutch to move forward. At this point if i start modding i'm going to have the same problem, so might as well nip it now and replace the whole thing.

[carfansince73]

Was at the track finally two weekends ago, an 1/8 mile... I have 315/35/20 Michelon Pilot Super Sports, and I still have lots of traction issues even aired down to 24 lbs. Of course I'm sure I was probably in the throttle too much too early, but should I let more air out next time?

I did about a five second burnout in second gear. Too long, not long enough?

Also, I went down with just traction control off because I wanted to see how I handled the car. Would competitive mode be better until I can get more seat time with regard to getting better traction?

I have my eyes on some 18" C6 wheels and MT ET streets with some BMR trailing arms, but I want to see if I could get some advice until I get those later this year.

Thanks.

[Pro Stock John]

@ OP, might not need a clutch, I'd try the fluid change first you have 61K on your current fluid.

If Tick sells a relo kit I'd look into that. The heat degrades the fluid, boils it like someone said above.

I'd also look at doing toe rods and trailing arms to minimize wheel hop.

[Jeff_SS]

My first time out on factory stock rubber I ran a 13.14 @ 114.6 with a 2.32 60' and a 8.75 1/8 @ 86.4mph
So I'd say that you didn't do bad at all for factory rubber, it was embarrassing for me with my mods but I said **** it, I'll get better with more practice and I've knocked it down more and more. I just need to buy a rear set of 18" nurbs and put a NT05R set on them, then I might actually be able to get off the line and be able to hook...

[ytown87]

Not gona lie but this did help me the other day with the clutch issue. Get semi staged (first light) and pump the mess out of the clutch pedal a few times before you trigger the second light. I know it seems pointless but it definitely works. With the hot fluid just sitting and air bubbles being created, you have to get the fliud moving and ready. I ran 3 times back to back with maybe 5-10 min waits between runs and didnt have the issue since I did that. Keep in mind that I dont dump my clutch...I slip it which mean there is a wayyy higher chance of having the clutch pedal not coming up issue.

Best 60' on almost worn out Pirellis with doing this 2.039 to date. Trapped 12.685 @111mph

If you havent done any of the fixes yet just give this a try and let me know if it worked for you

[GYac]

Originally Posted by ytown87

Not gona lie but this did help me the other day with the clutch issue. Get semi staged (first light) and pump the mess out of the clutch pedal a few times before you trigger the second light. I know it seems pointless but it definitely works. With the hot fluid just sitting and air bubbles being created, you have to get the fliud moving and ready. I ran 3 times back to back with maybe 5-10 min waits between runs and didnt have the issue since I did that. Keep in mind that I dont dump my clutch...I slip it which mean there is a wayyy higher chance of having the clutch pedal not coming up issue.

Best 60' on almost worn out Pirellis with doing this 2.039 to date. Trapped 12.685 @111mph

If you havent done any of the fixes yet just give this a try and let me know if it worked for you

I was on stock rubber and did a shitty little burn out after backing next to the pit. I slipped the clutch, ive found i've had more issues doing that. **** the other day it started to stick in traffic, I imagine the cause is my fluid heating up.

So after calling my dealership once more, they are so concerned with abuse I dont even want to dick with it right now. I makes me so freaking mad. If the CHEVY CUSTOMER SERVICE is monitoring please take note. I've owned two foreign cars, an acura TL (2005), and an 06 GLI jetta as a commuter a few years back, those two have customer service right, never once was i ever accused of anything before I came in, always offered a loaner even for minor service, and always taken care of even out of warranty and when i didnt buy that car at that dealership. Chevy dealers are a freaking joke. Ourisman in bowie is even worse than that. I would have to gamble with 600 bucks just to check my transmission, pay for a rental, and hope they find something related to the TSB, when i mentioned the TSB they got defensive. Sorry for the rant. Effing pissed, AC needs replaced, clutch sticking, cant catch a break with this car at the moment. I love my car, but my lord GM.

[Fraxum]

Even with the separate clutch reservoir and clean fluid you can still have the clutch slip problem. This happens to me when the staging lanes are empty and there is no cool down between runs.

When that happens it's time to go home. With my turbos now this will only get worse.

I have not tried the spring and Tick line yet. I also think heat is the enemy. Has anyone verified the Tick line will solve the problem? Bleeding the clutch is a PIA I hear.

[cornerspeed92]

Hearing people run this hottie in the quarter mile is like nails on a chalk board to me. This car is for ROAD RACING...you know, track days,not the quarter mile. Save your hate, just my 2 cents!