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#29 |
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striker
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Same here , I guess thats why I baby it out the hole but its gonna give in sooner or later.
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#30 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
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For all you guys breaking axles and stuff..how much power are you putting down. I just ran on DR for the first time recently and put down consistent 1.8's. Im 430hp 430tq. Rear end is all stock. Am I in the danger zone??
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#31 |
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WICKDSS
Drives: 2011 1SS/RS IOM LS3 Join Date: May 2010
Location: Wichita, Kansas
Posts: 1,111
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For m6 cars, stock power has broken many axles. It's all in technique on the launch.
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2011 IOM SS/RS, M6. Look up our all generation Camaro club website at Heartland Camaros
Gforce Engineering Drivetrain, ECS 1500 Supercharger, TSP Cam, Alky Controls Meth single nozzle. 91 octane, 698 RWHP 625 rwtq. 4200#+, Tuned by Justin "Justune" Kalwei 11.57 @ 126.8 mph with a crappy 1.80 60'.....still learning to drive....M&H DR's and skinnies on 17" Welds. |
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#32 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
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Gotcha. Well Ive been trying to launch like Ranger on YouTube and slip the clutch. Been launching around 3000 but after reading this post im sure I'll be trying 4000ish from now on. But no dumping the clutch here...if that helps
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#33 | |
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M6 9 second club
Drives: A 4000 Lb BeaSSt Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Crackin Azz on a hi-way near you
Posts: 1,033
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Quote:
Exactly! Its all about technique and knowing when to let out. Dumping the clutch or wheel hopping will break stuff whether you're stock or modded! Sent from J-Rod's Continuum Transfunctioner
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TBDRWHP TBDRWTQ ECS S/C 408, YSi, m6, Mantic Triple, ZL1 diff #BuiltByJRod.... J-Rod's Speed Shop.... Tuned by: Matt Sorian @ MS Tuning Check out my youtube channel: http://www.youtube.com/user/6410Jrod Follow me on Instagram: @J_Rod6410 |
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#34 |
![]() Drives: 2012 Camaro 2ss 45th M6 Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Fayetteville, Ar
Posts: 410
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What rearend gears you boys running???
I'm running a 3.42 but am pretty sure I'm gonna swap back to 4.10s Had 4.10s in the stock rearend before the new one. 3.42 capable of 175 in 4th ain't cuttin it.. Hahaha |
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#35 |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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OMG, this problem is not a problem at all. This is chance to get faster times, when you spin that is a problem because there is not a lot you can do. Too much traction is never a problem...lol.
There are two things that you need to do to go fast when the car is hooking and bogging. One, give the engine more rpm. Your engine makes more power at higher rpm and the higher you can wind it up the more power you have available to get the car moving. If the car is hooking keep adding rpms until you spin or until you are just below the rev limiter. If you can launch at the limiter without blowing off the tires you have the absolutely most power your engine can put to the tires and you should have the fastest time your car has ever seen. Number 2, don't "slip" the clutch out within the first 3 feet, drag the clutch until the car is moving... If you are bogging down the motor you have got to drag the clutch further. The higher your rpms at launch the further you have to drag the clutch to get the engine to meet the tire speed. You can hold the rpms at 6000 and drag the clutch 30 or 40 feet. At 6000 rpm my car goes 60mph in first, there is no way my driveline can get it there in 3 feet. I have got in the 1.4's for 60 ft on days where the track is sticky and have many 1.5 60ft passes. I think if you look in the 60ft times I still hold the record for a manual car. This is how I launch. Do not put more air in the tire. More air will only let it spin and you do not want to spin the tire, you want traction. There is one drawback to this... It destroys clutches. I hate to say it but you will destroy that mantic if you drive in conditions like that a lot. I did anyway.... but it gave me 30 or 40 good launches before I bought the street slayer triple.
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2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() Last edited by jessrayo; 05-10-2014 at 10:53 PM. |
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#36 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
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@jessrayo
maybe I'm just extremely new to this but what is dragging the clutch and how is it done. Ive been slipping mine for a while now. I finally got some DR and took it out to the track. I figured id be able to launch and slip at 4000+ but the clutch pedal never wanted to come up. I believe its the centrifugal force of the higher rpm was stopping the plates from releasing enough to engage. Im terrified of snapping an axle but did dump the clutch at 4000 and hooked perfectly. I believe I could've went higher rpm but didnt want to risk it. I was running 1.8's all day which is good but I know it should be lower. I went back to slipping ot at 2500 and had no problems with the pedal or launching. so to you and everyone else getting better times on DR..how the heck are you doing it? |
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#37 | |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
I guess dragging it out or slipping it are the same thing but it is almost as if when the light goes green my entire focus is NOT on getting the clutch out but rather seeing how long I can hold it on the edge where the rpms stay up and the clutch is still slipping off some rpm. I have 3.23 rear end and my first gear ratio right now is the stock 2.66, These ratios are very tall compared to the stock ss. They make it easier to practice this technique but if I could do it with lower ratios it would work even better. Even with 800 whp and 900 ft/lbs of torque I have got to hold that clutch where it is not fully releasing or the car will bog down. If I drag the clutch 40 feet that is really only about one full second because the 60 foot is gone in 1.5 seconds. The main thing I do is listen to the motor and let the clutch out as fast as possible without knocking off any rpms....it translates into giving it a big bump when the light turns green and then holding it where it is still half engaged while I'm standing on the gas and trying to keep rpms up until tire speed matches engine speed....over several feet. If you are fully releasing the pedal and the clutch is not fully releasing then you probably need a new clutch already. The reason it will hold at 2500 and not 4000 is because the engine is making about 1/3 of the power there and it is a lot easier for it to grip. Your clutch can no longer hold at 4000 rpm so when you dumped it, it slipped on it's own and gave you a decent time. You need to start budgeting a new clutch. If you put a new clutch in the car you will be able to slip it out at any rpm the engine will make. The driveline breakage is a real concern with the SS. I kind of think drag racers should put in the ZL1 rear and axles. For how stout the ZL1 rear is, the factory prices are pretty reasonable.
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2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#38 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
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QUOTE=jessrayo;7655811]
If you are fully releasing the pedal and the clutch is not fully releasing then you probably need a new clutch already. The reason it will hold at 2500 and not 4000 is because the engine is making about 1/3 of the power there and it is a lot easier for it to grip. Your clutch can no longer hold at 4000 rpm so when you dumped it, it slipped on it's own and gave you a decent time.[/QUOTE] When I dumped it at 4000 it grabbed fine and the car launched pretty good. That was one of my slowest times at 2.038. Before that i was trying to slip it at 4000 and the pedal would never come up on its own leaving me to bail out on the run. I went back to slipping at 2500 and pulled consistent 1.8 times. Thing is I know my 60ft should be lower than that. I can pull 1.9s on worn out Pirellis! Guess I will get started on my clutch fund and start reading around on the better ones. Seems like theres always something pulling away from my cam fund. Im still confused on how people say they are launching at 4000 plus and slipping it without having the pedal issue. I assume most people dump it and arent scared of breaking things. The way you explain slipping your clutch sounds like something I can try next time. |
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#39 | |
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Speed Freak
Drives: 2013 ZL1 Camaro, 2016 Camaro SS Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Ardmore, OK
Posts: 2,637
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Quote:
1) You spin the tires.... no worries, back off the rpms. 2) you bog the motor.... just drag it out and let it slip a little. 3) no spin but not a great 60 foot time.... your clutch is worn and slipping all by itself...start the clutch fund. Your pedal issue is a worn clutch issue.....sorry bro. But I'm on my 4th clutch and I don't even have 10,000 miles on my car. It happens when you drag race.
__________________
2016 SS -AGP twin Borg Warner 7163 EFR's, LT4 mechanical pump, LT4 injectors, Walbro 255 low side, Castrol SRF. 734whp/759 tq
2013 ZL1 -ADM - 427 LSX 6 bolt, O-ringed block built by LME. Twin PT6466 turbos. RPM custom manual trans, RPS Quad carbon clutch, 9" Hendrix rear diff & axles. ADM/squash fuel system, Ron Davis radiator, Spal fans, AGP air to air, turbo plumbing. LPE oil cooler, rear bushing upgrade, roll bar...etc. rwhp 1400+... 212.5mph, best Texas mile to date. ![]() |
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#40 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: C6 Corvette Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Tampa, FL
Posts: 1,264
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Well I'll get started shopping around then. Will be a good time to replace the drive shaft bearing too while I'm at it.
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