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#365 |
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Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,728
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We test on non backup sensor low low VIN A6 and it worked, so why not on a M6 with out backup sensor.
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#366 | |
![]() Drives: (sold) 2011 2LT/RS auto, SW/tan top Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Driftwood, TX (Austin area)
Posts: 162
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Backup camera wiring
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(For the 2011 model, at least) the reason it's imperative to tap power (+) on the driver side taillight harness and ground (-) on the passenger side harness, is because the (light green) power wire to the backup lights is located on the driver side harness, which has no ground wire. There are two ground wires (both black) on the passenger side harness. The only alternatives to this approach (I believe) would be to either run the power & ground wires up to the interior fuse panel on the driver side of the instrument cluster, or to remove the rear bumper fascia and tap into either backup light. I didn't want to remove the fascia, and since I had already run my video signal back along the passenger side during the MyLink install, I wanted to be done with disassembling trim panels in the vehicle interior. Many thanks to Jarod at Gen5DIY for looking up the wiring schematics for me today, when I called in during my install! Edits / updates: I didn't need to reverse the leads on my video cable ... the quality of the video signal was excellent using the harness as wired by Gen5DIY. On the physical side of things, it was a time-consuming challenge (for me, anyway), to get the camera with its attachable bracket snapped into place in the cutout in the rear bumper fascia above the license plate area. Prior to the install, I had anticipated needing to drill a hole for the camera and using screws to secure the camera into the fascia. But a little black plastic piece between the license plate lamps pops out, providing a perfectly-sized opening for the camera bracket. Sweet! Even though the camera & bracket are black and my car is white, you have to look for the camera to see it. Last edited by JAustin; 06-20-2014 at 09:55 AM. |
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#367 | |
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RIP Betsy ( Vitara )
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First retrofitted 2014 mylink. |
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#368 |
![]() Drives: (sold) 2011 2LT/RS auto, SW/tan top Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Driftwood, TX (Austin area)
Posts: 162
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Hmmm, my idle / morbid curiosity wonders which wire you used in the driver side taillight harness as a ground.
According to Jarod at Gen5DIY, there isn't a ground wire in that harness. (I don't recall seeing any black wires in it, and would prefer to not remove the cover again, just to see.) Or perhaps you grounded to the body or to a different ground wire? |
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#369 | |
![]() Drives: SS / ZL1 Kit retrofit Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Vienna, VA
Posts: 109
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Quote:
It worked. Thanks a lot for helping me solving this issue. I didn't use the soldering gun way. I just cut the wires and t-taped them oppositely.
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Mods:
Performance: ZL1 Corsa Catback Exhaust - CAI - Kooks 1 7/8"x3" Long tube headers. Exterior: Full ZL1 body kit conversion. Suspension upgrades |
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#370 | |
![]() ![]() Drives: 16 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Menifee
Posts: 820
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Interior: Adrenaline Red. SS/2SS, M6, NPP, Sun Roof, 8" Nav. Black 5 Spoke Wheels.
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#371 | |
![]() Drives: (sold) 2011 2LT/RS auto, SW/tan top Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Driftwood, TX (Austin area)
Posts: 162
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Quote:
![]() I could be mistaken, but based on the information I received from Jarod at Gen5DIY, I'm inclined to believe that the wiring to the rear lights (taillights, brake lights, turn signals, backup lights) forms a loop across the back of the car. This would explain why there's only one power (+12V) lead for the backup lights (the light green wire in the driver side harness), even though there are (of course) backup lights on both driver and passenger sides of the rear bumper. With a loop design, a ground lead isn't strictly needed in the driver side harness, and in this case -- again, according to my conversation with Jarod -- there are no ground wires in the driver side harness, only in the passenger side. But the fact that every electrical circuit needs a ground doesn't necessitate the existence of a ground wire in a harness. Just for fun, get a circuit tester, go out to your car, open the hood, put the positive lead from the tester on any +12V source and the negative lead on bare frame or engine metal, and see what happens.
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#372 |
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Custom User Title :D
Drives: 2011 Summit White 2LT/RS Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Bolingbrook, IL
Posts: 2,342
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I used an aftermarket camera, but I did run the ground to the amp mouting stud in the trunk with a ring terminal, works fine.
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#373 | |
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Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,728
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The way GM made the rear harness on a 2010-11there is no ground on that connector, but there is ground on the bulb socket, and i think that's what he did, but i like the way we told you better. |
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#374 |
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Drives: 2014 Z/28 #82+#192, 18ZLE 66Nova Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: By the lake in AZ
Posts: 15,728
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One more thing, in the kits for the 2010 car only, you do not need or get a splitter and RF cables, you dont need them, if you want to do the install with them you will need to upgrade the shark fin, and the Onstar box, But if you do that Onstar will not upgrade you to use the new box.
We 2010 owners got luck that we dont need to do all this, all we do is install the new flat antenna in to the new blue connecter on the radios. P.S that made the kit's price less then all the rest, and we passed it on to you. |
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#375 |
![]() Drives: (sold) 2011 2LT/RS auto, SW/tan top Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Driftwood, TX (Austin area)
Posts: 162
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Over and out
After finally finishing up my installation last week, I rigorously put the system through its paces during several drives over the weekend.
It's not without its minor idiosyncrasies, but overall, it's an excellent system, and a profound upgrade over the previous system. Kudos and many thanks to Ofer & Jarod at Gen5DIY for developing and assembling the systems, as well as providing excellent support during the installation. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Gen5DIY to other owners, or to purchase additional products from them in the future. Thanks also to GTPrix for programming the head units, and to GearHeadPeter for producing the installation instructions and how-to videos. This upgrade will significantly enhance our enjoyment of our Camaro, and will likely extend our ownership of it by years. I'm signing off this thread now, but I want to thank all of you who contributed tips and observations from your installation experiences, which substantially helped me during my installation, and no doubt many others, as well. |
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#376 |
![]() ![]() Drives: 16 Camaro SS Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Menifee
Posts: 820
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Good to hear that everything is working fine. Will be installing my system on the weekend.
Thanks for your info.
__________________
Interior: Adrenaline Red. SS/2SS, M6, NPP, Sun Roof, 8" Nav. Black 5 Spoke Wheels.
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#377 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Drives: 2011 Inferno Orange Camaro 2SS/RS Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 1,372
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My Install went great, My backup camera wired to the drivers side Only. Yes there are 2 grounds on that side as well. They just happen to be the black wires on Both turn signal bulbs. The only issue I had was the white wire they supplied had the wrong gender spade connector on it and would not plug into the T Tap. Fortunately I had the male ones also and did not lose any time. Took about 3.5 hours and at Least 6-8 MooseHeads.
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#378 |
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Alex
Drives: 2011 2SS Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: New Britian/Greenwich CT
Posts: 62
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So almost done with my installation. All the wires run with the exception to the new center console harness. I went to test the new head unit and faceplate and then the problems started. Well its only two problems really. 1st is that neither of the heated seats buttons work. The ac controls function fine. Just not those two buttons.
The second and probably biggest problem is that the screen doesnt come on. The soft touch buttons work because I can hear the radio station change when I touch them, but the display never comes on. Any ideas?
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