Upgrade just the speakers (base system) - Page 2 - Camaro5 Chevy Camaro Forum / Camaro ZL1, SS and V6 Forums

jiannotto9492 · 08-04-2014, 10:12 AM

Get a set of 10" subs and then just look at the specs for the minimum size of a box you can use. Make the box yourself (there should be a DIY on crutchfield). I bought an MTX set of 10" subs enclosed and it fit by wiggling it in.

stoopid · 08-04-2014, 10:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

Get a set of 10" subs and then just look at the specs for the minimum size of a box you can use. Make the box yourself (there should be a DIY on crutchfield). I bought an MTX set of 10" subs enclosed and it fit by wiggling it in.

Once upon a time I'd be game for spending that time, but I have competing interests and would rather throw $109 at ******** for the prefab solution then spend the time to build it myself. I also don't need twin 10s.

Dexman1349 · 08-04-2014, 11:35 AM

Box size is dependent on the sub. Different subs require different size enclosures. And there are different types of enclosures (sealed, ported are the two most common), with each type changing the box size equations.

For example, my JL Audio recommends a 1.25 cuft sealed box or a 1.75 cuft ported box for my 12W3v3 sub. If I dropped it to a 10", then the box size is drastically reduced to a compact 0.625 cuft sealed enclosure, or a 1.125 cuft ported enclosure.

The box does not need to be a perfect cube shape. You only have to provide one surface big enough to mount the sub to, the rest of the enclosure can be custom shaped to fit wherever you want the sub to go. There are ways to modify the box to maximize sound and actually go below the recommended sizes, but things start getting complex really quickly.

stoopid · 08-04-2014, 01:34 PM

I probably have to go with the ******** option since it's the only one I can find that uses minimal trunk space. I guess I can mount the smallish amp anywhere and use a line converter for the rear speakers --> RCA for the amp. On the fence, but considering doing this one myself...

jiannotto9492 · 08-04-2014, 06:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stoopid

Once upon a time I'd be game for spending that time, but I have competing interests and would rather throw $109 at ******** for the prefab solution then spend the time to build it myself. I also don't need twin 10s.

Toss the money and get a single sub then pre-enclosed. It's extremely easy to do the install yourself as well. I wrote a little write up on it and still haven't had a chance to take everything out of my trunk to add in pictures. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370684

stoopid · 08-05-2014, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

Toss the money and get a single sub then pre-enclosed. It's extremely easy to do the install yourself as well. I wrote a little write up on it and still haven't had a chance to take everything out of my trunk to add in pictures. If you have any questions feel free to PM me.

http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=370684

Curious why you aren't using a line out converter that also has the on/off control wire [remote turn-on] like this, rather than need to run a line from the fuse box under the dash:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-L-O-...words=pac+line

They also make them for 4 channels (I only need a 2).

Definitely going to use the wire splice connectors you linked to.

jiannotto9492 · 08-05-2014, 07:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stoopid

Curious why you aren't using a line out converter that also has the on/off control wire [remote turn-on] like this, rather than need to run a line from the fuse box under the dash:

http://www.amazon.com/PAC-LP7-2-L-O-...words=pac+line

They also make them for 4 channels (I only need a 2).

Definitely going to use the wire splice connectors you linked to.

My reasoning for wiring the remote wire and not get a line out with the remote is because I wanted to make sure I have a constant 12v supply to the amp when the car is on. Speakers take an across signal so in the converters you have an AC-DC converter and then an amplifier circuit as well. These both tend to have rather limited lives especially when you take heat into account along with vibration that may occur naturally. So all in all wiring the remote line to the fuse box is more reliable.

My credentials for this is being an electrical engineer.

stoopid · 08-05-2014, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

My reasoning for wiring the remote wire and not get a line out with the remote is because I wanted to make sure I have a constant 12v supply to the amp when the car is on. Speakers take an across signal so in the converters you have an AC-DC converter and then an amplifier circuit as well. These both tend to have rather limited lives especially when you take heat into account along with vibration that may occur naturally. So all in all wiring the remote line to the fuse box is more reliable.

My credentials for this is being an electrical engineer.

But is there a reason to not use the Pac? If it's $20 and stops working, just buy a new one (?).

jiannotto9492 · 08-05-2014, 03:26 PM

Vs. wiring it to the front of the car which takes 5 minutes at most. Ultimately your decision, I choose wiring it over risking it going bad and having to splice to my rear decks again. Once again less circuitry less problems.

stoopid · 08-05-2014, 07:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

Vs. wiring it to the front of the car which takes 5 minutes at most. Ultimately your decision, I choose wiring it over risking it going bad and having to splice to my rear decks again. Once again less circuitry less problems.

Well I don't think I can run that wire in 5 minutes so that's why I ask.

jiannotto9492 · 08-05-2014, 07:19 PM

I'll try to get a picture up for ya tomorrow. You just gotta remove the two panels closest to the wheel on the driver side if you want to ensure the wire won't slip down. Otherwise you could just squeeze the wire into the panels. And then use a fuse tap. I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow for ya.

stoopid · 08-06-2014, 05:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jiannotto9492

I'll try to get a picture up for ya tomorrow. You just gotta remove the two panels closest to the wheel on the driver side if you want to ensure the wire won't slip down. Otherwise you could just squeeze the wire into the panels. And then use a fuse tap. I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow for ya.

Probably no need, I won't be pulling up my interior to run a wire to the trunk when I don't *have* to. I'll just use the Pac and take my chances on it failing.

motorhead · 08-06-2014, 05:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Texzen

I seem to walk around in a state of perpetual confusion.

As an fyi, I lived in Colorado Springs from 2003-2006. I spent quite a bit of time in & around Castle Rock & Castle Pines. Love it up there.

That's probably where you got your confusion. They love their pot out there.

stoopid · 08-06-2014, 04:24 PM

So I went to the local custom audio shop here in Albany. They're big on Focal and JL Audio, but had some budget stuff as well. The technician I talked to felt anything less than 300W would be inadequate for the 10". We explored some JL Audio options, including a nice punchy sounding dual 8" box with a 600W JL Audio amp but it well exceeds my original budget. Even online I would be looking $800 for just the subs and amp. $1200 for them to do everything. I could beat them up on the labor, etc but at best it's still over $1,000.

So back to looking at the ******** enclosure and perhaps going back to them for the rest. I'm on the fence about doing this myself, and it's looking like that $500 budget isn't going to cut it when I factor in labor. Getting old and lazy.

08-04-2014, 11:35 AM	#17
Dexman1349 2010 2SS/RS M6 Drives: 2010 2SS/RS M6 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Auckland, NZ Posts: 1,482	Box size is dependent on the sub. Different subs require different size enclosures. And there are different types of enclosures (sealed, ported are the two most common), with each type changing the box size equations. For example, my JL Audio recommends a 1.25 cuft sealed box or a 1.75 cuft ported box for my 12W3v3 sub. If I dropped it to a 10", then the box size is drastically reduced to a compact 0.625 cuft sealed enclosure, or a 1.125 cuft ported enclosure. The box does not need to be a perfect cube shape. You only have to provide one surface big enough to mount the sub to, the rest of the enclosure can be custom shaped to fit wherever you want the sub to go. There are ways to modify the box to maximize sound and actually go below the recommended sizes, but things start getting complex really quickly. __________________ 2/7/2014: 419 hp, 419 tq Cosmetic: ZL1 front w/mailslot, painted stripes, powdercoated SS rims, tow hook, and full chrome delete Suspension: Pfadt subframe bushings, Pfadt rear UCA bushings, Z28 Upper control arms, Spohn trailing arms with BMR trailing arm & differential bushings, ZL1 Toe Rods and springs, Prothane radius arm inserts & steering rack bushing, Pfadt Sport front sway, FE4 conversion w/ DS rear sway, Pfadt strut brace Drivetrain: RMCR tune, CAI intake, Kooks headers, hi-flo cats & exhaust, VMAX TB, ZL1 fuel pump, LSR Tri-Ax shifter Bumblebee Racecar Build

08-04-2014, 10:12 AM	#15
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	Get a set of 10" subs and then just look at the specs for the minimum size of a box you can use. Make the box yourself (there should be a DIY on crutchfield). I bought an MTX set of 10" subs enclosed and it fit by wiggling it in.

08-04-2014, 01:34 PM	#18
stoopid Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: anyplace, USA Posts: 1,177	I probably have to go with the ******** option since it's the only one I can find that uses minimal trunk space. I guess I can mount the smallish amp anywhere and use a line converter for the rear speakers --> RCA for the amp. On the fence, but considering doing this one myself...

08-05-2014, 03:26 PM	#23
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	Vs. wiring it to the front of the car which takes 5 minutes at most. Ultimately your decision, I choose wiring it over risking it going bad and having to splice to my rear decks again. Once again less circuitry less problems.

08-05-2014, 07:19 PM	#25
jiannotto9492 Drives: 2014 Red 2LS Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Stony Brook, New York Posts: 45	I'll try to get a picture up for ya tomorrow. You just gotta remove the two panels closest to the wheel on the driver side if you want to ensure the wire won't slip down. Otherwise you could just squeeze the wire into the panels. And then use a fuse tap. I'll try to get some pictures up tomorrow for ya.

08-06-2014, 04:24 PM	#28
stoopid Drives: 4 wheels Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: anyplace, USA Posts: 1,177	So I went to the local custom audio shop here in Albany. They're big on Focal and JL Audio, but had some budget stuff as well. The technician I talked to felt anything less than 300W would be inadequate for the 10". We explored some JL Audio options, including a nice punchy sounding dual 8" box with a 600W JL Audio amp but it well exceeds my original budget. Even online I would be looking $800 for just the subs and amp. $1200 for them to do everything. I could beat them up on the labor, etc but at best it's still over $1,000. So back to looking at the ******** enclosure and perhaps going back to them for the rest. I'm on the fence about doing this myself, and it's looking like that $500 budget isn't going to cut it when I factor in labor. Getting old and lazy.