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Old 01-31-2015, 10:53 PM   #29
soulsea
 
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Yup, after you take it out just put it in the 'spare' next to it so you don't lose it.
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Old 02-01-2015, 10:59 AM   #30
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What is the R2 Active Exhaust Flapper?
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:06 AM   #31
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It's the relay for it
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Old 02-01-2015, 11:11 AM   #32
2SSRS@Gen5diy
 
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I made my own out of some parts.
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Old 02-05-2015, 08:56 PM   #33
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I did the fuse pull with the stock exhaust manifolds which sounded perfect but when I added headers and HF cats it was remarkably louder so I made my own wireless control too, I operate it off one of the unused Homelink buttons on the visor.
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Old 02-24-2015, 09:57 PM   #34
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Is the NPP in the Z28 the same as the NPP in the 1LE and ZL1? I noticed it is a different part number and that the mid pipe is a larger diameter, so is the Z28 NPP a larger diameter tubing as well.

If you own a Z28 and a pair of calipers, and you got access before the muffler and after measure the OD. I will compare to my 1LE
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Old 02-25-2015, 05:55 AM   #35
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supposedly the Z/28 is 2.75" vs 2.5" in the 1LE and ZL1
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Old 02-25-2015, 04:59 PM   #36
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My car is up on my lift for the winter - I will measure my pipes when I get home this weekend.

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Old 03-12-2015, 12:10 AM   #37
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Hi Guys and Gals,

Just a quick note ...

Pulling the fuse is the least expensive and 100% effective method to keep your dual-mode exhaust in the always open position. The only problem with that solution is that it is not convenient to put the fuse back in when you want to make it quiet again. But the cost is right ... $0.

There have been a few solutions that you can use to manually control the exhaust bypass valves.

The first, and least costly, is to install a switch in the exhaust flapper circuit. This is cheap, but you have run a wire carrying +12 v to the switch and this could be prone to fraying and possible shorting out the circuit. You could do something like this for about $10 or so. I do not recommend it.

A second, and safer solution is to install a relay near the rear fuse block to control the circuit. I posted a schematic on how to do that and is a very safe solution. This solution would cost less than $15. This I would recommend as a very cost effective solution. Here is the link to the schematic (post number #17) ... http://www.camaro5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=398397

A third solution is to purchase a commercially available remote switch. The most common that has been previously available have been offered by various vendors which are re-purposing a commercially available remote switch made by Logisy. The Logisy remote switch is exactly what the name implies. You use a remote control transmitter (a small fob like device) to transmit a signal to a receiver which in turn toggles a remote switch on and off. You can make your own device if you purchase the Logisys device yourself. With a few connectors you can have a remote solution for about $20 to $30. If you purchase a ready-configured device from one of several vendors you will pay $80 to $100 for what is essentially an off the shelf product with a couple of crimp connectors. One thing to keep in mind, if you purchase one of the Logisys based devices you will have to modify the electrical connectors to make it work with the Camaro. So it is not fully a plug and play. More like a modify and play.

Another option is to consider purchasing a control device that is designed specifically for the Camaro ... a new player in this area is the Forza controller ... http://www.forzacomponenti.com/ The controller for the Camaro is custom designed and requires no modification to function with the Camaro ... out of box, plug and play. This device runs about $80 as well.

One aspect of the dual mode exhaust on the Camaro is that it really is a fairly sophisticated device. Very simple in concept, but quite clever in the way GM executed its control. If I am not mistaken, it costs about $800 or so as a factory option ... but, in my opinion, a great option if you enjoy the throaty sound of that V8 engine. It just needs the ability for you to be able to manually control it.

Steve
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Old 04-06-2015, 07:18 PM   #38
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It seems to me the car feels like it has more power and revs freer with the fuse removed. Placebo effect? Anyone else feel that too?
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:15 PM   #39
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It's been too many miles with it disabled to say it feels stronger. The motor is strong regardless.
I would think lowering the exhaust restriction some would help the lower end most as the flaps are open at higher revs anyhow.
Maybe there is more thrust ; )
or the engine music entices more spirited driving.
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Old 04-06-2015, 08:30 PM   #40
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In theory, removing the fuse would actually reduce overall performance. Why? At lower revs, it is actually desirable to have a bit of back pressure removing as improves the scavenging effect to evacuate exhaust gas which will improve low end torque. At higher revs you want to reduce the back pressure to optimize power By removing the fuse, you force the bypass valves open all the time which will reduce the back pressure throughout the entire rev range which in turn will reduce the low end torque.

OK, that is theory. I would bet a dollar to a donut that if you put your car on dyno you would not see enough difference that you coul feel.

I think what you are feeling is placebo effect. Another thing that I find "feels" like a performance boost is to wash and wax the car.

Regards,

Steve



Quote:
Originally Posted by macalot View Post
It's been too many miles with it disabled to say it feels stronger. The motor is strong regardless.
I would think lowering the exhaust restriction some would help the lower end most as the flaps are open at higher revs anyhow.
Maybe there is more thrust ; )
or the engine music entices more spirited driving.

Last edited by forzasteve; 04-06-2015 at 08:41 PM.
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Old 04-06-2015, 11:26 PM   #41
macalot
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by forzasteve View Post
In theory, removing the fuse would actually reduce overall performance. Why? At lower revs, it is actually desirable to have a bit of back pressure removing as improves the scavenging effect to evacuate exhaust gas which will improve low end torque. At higher revs you want to reduce the back pressure to optimize power By removing the fuse, you force the bypass valves open all the time which will reduce the back pressure throughout the entire rev range which in turn will reduce the low end torque.

OK, that is theory. I would bet a dollar to a donut that if you put your car on dyno you would not see enough difference that you coul feel.

I think what you are feeling is placebo effect. Another thing that I find "feels" like a performance boost is to wash and wax the car.

Regards,

Steve
I agree with ya on principle but...
I'm thinking they didn't design the flap system because they needed more back pressure, but to lower the decibels. The resultant back pressure may/may not be needed. I would suspect we would have heard by now if it was a no-no. Heck the computers are probably figuring it all out anyhow.
Either way, I don't really care, unless harm could be done.... which is highly unlikely I'd suspect.
I enjoy the sound of the engine and exhaust when cruising. For a longer ride I put the fuse in.
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:52 AM   #42
forzasteve
 
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I am pleased to announce that the Forza 3-Way Controller is now available for immediate shipping. The 3-Way controller gives you three modes of operation for exhaust bypass valves:


  1. Normal mode (stock)
  2. Always Open
  3. Always Closed
You can see more info on the Forza Web Site http://www.forzacomponenti.com/index.html

Best Regards,

Steve
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