Handling after upgrading suspension

[JusticePete]

Originally Posted by Powellbr

Itll be used as a combo dd & drag car,both strip & street ,also should mention ill be puttin in a 10-point chromoly cage

Originally Posted by JDP Tyler

The 5th gen is a VERY stiff chassis and IMHO does not need bracing. Save your money and spend it on the lower hanging fruit.










If you would like some real world advice from people that test all the parts we offer and track their 5th gen, feel free to call, PM or email me anytime.

Best regards,

Tyler
888-308-6007

A 5th Gen with a 10 point cage absolutely does not need any additional bracing.

[2013 ZL1 #7860]

Originally Posted by Powellbr

Ok, so how I got these numbers is a while back I googled a formula to calculate intercooler efficiency and found the site for AutoSpeed, most notably their article on intercooler efficiency like I wanted. Mind you, I still can't figure out how he got the .286 exponent for theoretical outlet temp but the rest seems sound. Here's a link to the page: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=109789. This time around, I only wanted the density difference between ambient and the charge going into the cylinders, so after I got to that equation, I took the number I got from that and then multiplied the base horsepower from the LSX-427 I'll be using, which is 675 horsepower. Then, with some other numbers I found online for the Methanol injection boost (which I know is minimal) and the nitro additive for it from Snow Performance, which on their site And I Quote "will add 50 horsepower on a 500 wheel horsepower car". I know I'll be running 19 psi of boost so on Phastek Performance I went to the chart for the upgrade pulley for the pressure ratio and it's 2.73:1. Since this is in theory, I chose to use 22 *C for the ambient temp instead of 20 *C, which I know is an average day in the summer around where I live. So that is how I got my numbers.
EDIT: Also, because the 70% efficiency is for a turbo, I've googled in the past and recently to satisfy my curious streak about the efficiency of the Whipple W175 supercharger, which is 99% volumetric and 84% adiabatic

Originally Posted by Powellbr

OK, well thats good to know about my other question, and when I found that article I didn't even see that it was 7 yrs old (at the time it was only 6 yrs old so, yeah), and I guess I should of known I was doing something wrong when I was doing my numbers again. However, one thing I always do once I have the final number, there's a converter that I've found online put out by mk5cortinaestate and Frozenmist that I really like and use to get a rough guess of where the numbers at the wheels will be. So, after I get the rough number @ the wheels, I'll add the 10% (50 horsepower on a 500 horsepower car= 10%) to that number so yeah, more info to come.

UPDATE: so I just did that and the number is 1883, and that's at the crank, and the number at the wheels is ~1600, its actually so close it might as well be 1600 @ the wheels.

Why don't you answer PMs?

[Powellbr]

Ok, felt this thread was worth updating. I've been looking on the BMR site and seen the "extreme" sway bar that's offered and will be using that one instead. Has anyone had any experience with it? If so, how is it?

[JusticePete]

Why an inboard bar?

[Powellbr]

Honestly at this moment I cant think of why other than I've never heard of another option

[Rob@WretchedMS]

I would listen to everything that Tyler has been saying in this thread, he's steering you in the right direction. Adding bracing on a Camaro is not adding support, it's just adding weight.

As for the swaybar, just because it's another option doesn't mean it's a good option.
Just like, just because someone makes a part for your car doesn't mean it will help/improve anything.

The outboard swaybar in the rear is the way to go,

[Powellbr]

Originally Posted by Rob@WretchedMS

I would listen to everything that Tyler has been saying in this thread, he's steering you in the right direction. Adding bracing on a Camaro is not adding support, it's just adding weight.

As for the swaybar, just because it's another option doesn't mean it's a good option.
Just like, just because someone makes a part for your car doesn't mean it will help/improve anything.

The outboard swaybar in the rear is the way to go,

I guess I should have mentioned before but I have decided against the subframe bracing. However, will you explain to me the difference between inboard and outboard because I've honestly never heard of it before and don't understand the difference.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Inboard mounted rear swaybars were used on the FE2 and FE3 suspension
2010+ V6
2010-2011 SS Coupe
2011+ SS Convertible

The later Camaros used the outboard mounted swaybars with the FE4, FE5, FE6, and FEA suspensions.

Mounting the end links outboard provides the rear swaybar with better leverage and allows it to transfer energy much better.

If you look under your car in the rear you will see a tab that sticks up at the top of the rear lower control arm, this is where the FE3 style swaybar links mount

On the FE4 style the end links are out at the end near the wheel, and go through the center of the control arm through the bottom using a different style end link.

Edit (Adding Picture)

The two swaybars towards the bottom are the rears, the upper one is the FE3 style, and the lower is the FE4 style.

[Powellbr]

I guess the reason that I was going to be using the inboard swaybar is that I didnt understand the difference between inboard and outboard swaybar mounts and seen that the inboard one is over 700% stiffer than stock but that doesnt mean much because the inboard mounts dont have as much leverage as the outboard mounts and yeah. Now that I know that I'll be going be going back to the FE4 swaybar. Thanks for steering me back in the right direction

Sent from my Samsung SCH-783C using Tapatalk

[keith.wilkinson.10]

Ok let me see if I get this right; 2010- 2011 if you want to upgrade sways its best to convert to the FE4 style outboard end links. Otherwise it's prob best to just leave stock sways.

[Rob@WretchedMS]

Yes, all that is required is to replace the rear lower arms to fit the end links.

If you want to stay with the Inboard mounted swaybar i have a couple of the Pedders Rear FE3 Swaybars Left in my secret stash.